How to maintain tractor batteries in winter
If, like me, you live in a cooler climate with long frosty winter mornings, then there is a good chance you’d have encountered a flat battery or two failing to crank up the engine in your machine.
Batteries in both active and inactive machines require just as much care and attention as the other, otherwise you risk them discharging in storage or failing to work properly in cold weather.
In fact, a colossal two-thirds of tractor batteries never reach their intended life cycle due to lack of battery maintenance.
It is important to note that tractors need a fully charged battery in winter to ensure there is enough power to crank the starter motor on cold mornings.
Typically, batteries kept below a 70 per cent state of charge will struggle to start a cold engine. In addition, because batteries produce less energy at colder temperatures, the overall condition of battery charge is also lowered.
Sulfation and corrosion
Inactive batteries, especially those sitting in tractors during long periods of storage, slowly lose their charge to parasitic drain. When this occurs, sulphur molecules in the sulfuric acid that constitutes a battery’s electrolyte solution attach themselves to the lead plates.
That sulphur can coat the plates so thoroughly in a short time (often less than a couple of months) that it prevents the battery from being recharged. This process, which is the number one cause of battery failure, is known as sulfation.
In addition, extreme battery terminal corrosion can also destroy your battery cables over time. It could also cause a spark that damages your battery terminal, leading to a battery rupture in a worst-case scenario.
The most common trigger for battery terminal corrosion is when the battery acid reacts with the metal terminals. Corrosion typically appears as a flaky layer of brown, white, or green discolouration that sits on your battery terminals.
It’s important to note the colour of the build-up collected on your terminals because it indicates the difference between corrosion and sulfation.
Although these two processes produce relatively similar-looking discharges, there are some critical distinctions between corrosion and sulfation.
- Corrosion appears when the battery acid reacts with the metal terminals, typically when they become loose. It is brown, white, or blue/green.
- Sulfation occurs when lead sulphate crystals build up on the battery terminal because the battery is not maintaining a regular charge. It is usually grey.
Identifying the difference between these two chemical reactions is essential because what you do next with the battery depends on what the problem is.
If it is corrosion, it can be cleaned off easily and the battery will return to a useable state.
Sadly, however, sulfation usually indicates more severe damage to the battery. Once sulfation occurs, the only option is battery replacement.
Replacing a battery on an icy cold frosty winter morning is no fun but thankfully, there are measures you can take to prevent your tractor battery from failing during cold weather.
Storage
Certainly, disconnecting the cables from a tractor battery going into storage is a good start. But, even then, a fully charged battery in storage will deplete itself at a rate of one per cent discharge per day.
Most tractor manufacturers recommend removing the battery from the tractor and keeping it charged while in storage. There used to be a myth that storing batteries on concrete floors causes them to discharge faster than if they are sitting on a piece of timber, but that is simply not true. Batteries nowadays are encased in polypropylene or hard rubber with better-sealing properties which eliminate external leakage, so discharge is no longer a problem.
Make sure that wherever you choose to store your batteries, the area is not subject to temperatures too high or low. The higher the temperature, the more harm it is causing the batteries. For example, a battery stored at 35° Celsius will self-discharge twice as fast as one stored at 24° Celsius.
Safety
Before attempting to jump-start, check that the battery is secure and not leaking. Leaking battery acid will burn your skin, so if the battery is wet, use gloves and eye protection. Check also that the terminals are secure and not damaged. Damaged or loose terminals will cause arcing and prevent power flow to the starter.
If your battery posts are dirty, clean them before jump-starting. First, kit yourself out with protective eyewear and gloves. It will look like a white crusty build-up on the terminals and battery posts.
Dirty, corroded, or loose terminals create resistance to the flow of power from the battery to your starter and, in return, prevent the recharging of the battery by the alternator.
Sprinkle some baking soda on the terminals and add a small amount of water. This will neutralize the acid and remove the corrosion.
Use a wire brush to clean the surface. Now remove the terminals and clean around the poles and the terminals. Apply a coat of petroleum jelly to help protect against corrosion.
Cleaning The Battery Terminals
Battery terminals (connections) often come loose because of mower vibration, and as you know, corrosion is also common. If your battery terminals are damaged or badly corroded, replace them. Damaged cables may have broken wires within. This causes excessive resistance.
Often you may notice the cables getting very hot while you’re attempting to start the mower. This is a sign of high resistance. Replace with good quality leads and terminals.
Cables – Damaged, worn, or dirty cables will mimic a flat battery. Always check battery cables and terminals before condemning the battery.
Jumping / Boosting Your Mower
The jump/Boost start procedure is very simple; obviously, you’ll need a set of booster cables. If you need to buy boosters, buy a good quality set. Poor quality cables won’t make a good connection and make the whole job a lot more difficult.
I recently bought a set of Cartman boosters recently. I like cables that remain flexible in cold weather and jaw clamps that grip firmly, my guess is I’ll have the years, but I’ll keep you updated, and if I like them, I’ll post a link on the “Small engine tools page.”
Connecting Jumpers
Battery poles are sometimes colored red for positive and black for negative. However, batteries will definitely be marked for positive and (-) for negative. You may need to clean the battery a little to find the markings.
Battery post markings – Look out for positive and negative markings on the battery casing.
Move your vehicle close to the mower and pop the hood to access the battery. You will likely have to remove a plastic shield from the car battery terminals.
Simply match the color and polarity of the leads. Always begin by fitting the Red jump lead to both battery poles first, but it’s all covered below. Just follow the sequence, and you’ll be mowing in jig time.
Jump Start Preparation Jumper Sequence
A ground source is any bare metal. There are always a ton of good places on the engine to clamp to. Clamping the final clamp to the battery negative pole isn’t advised. Doing so may cause arcing, which could ignite battery vapors. It’s a small risk, but it is possible.
Check – All modern mowers run a 12-volt system, and it’s perfectly OK to jump-start from your car. If you are unsure, check the battery casing, it will be marked 12 volts (V).
Tight – Mower blades and engines cause a lot of vibration, and bolts come loose from time to time. Check both connections. Positive red and negative black (-) are clean, tight, and in good condition.
Jumpers – Use good quality jump leads. These are my old worn-out ones.
Connect – Start by connecting the positive red of the mower (1) to the red of the car (2).
Now connect the negative black (-) on the car (3) to a ground (GRD) source on the mower (4). (Any bare metal will work)
Start – After starting the mower, allow it to run for a couple of minutes while still connected.
Remove the jumpers in reverse order, 4, 3, 2, and 1.
Mower Just Clicks
If you tried jump-starting your mower or the battery tested OK, then you may have a starter solenoid fault. These guys give lots of trouble, so it’s highly likely, but it’s not the only possible cause of the click sound. Check out this simple, easy-to-follow guide, we’ll test the solenoid, and I’ll show you the other common causes of the click sound – “Won’t start just clicks.”
Mower Won’t Start No Click
If you tried jump starting or the battery tested OK, but the mower makes no sound at all when you turn the key – You may simply have an open safety sensor, like not sitting on the seat or brake pedal not pressed, or you could have a more complex issue.
Anyway, I wrote a guide to help you find the problem. Check out all the most likely causes here “Mower won’t start – no click.”
Tractor Battery Function
The function of a lawn tractor battery is to start the engine. Once started, the alternator then produces the power required to run electrical systems and recharge the battery. Batteries are designed to give, receive and store electrical power.
A strong, healthy battery is critical to starting a lawn tractor mower. A mower engine only creates enough energy for the spark plug to fire if the engine cranks over fast enough, min 350rpm. So if your mower cranks but won’t start, try jump-starting to eliminate the possibility of a faulty battery causing a slow crank speed.
Once the engines are running, a bad battery isn’t so important. That’s why a mower with a bad battery still runs after you remove the jumper leads. See crank testing the battery below.
Step-by-Step Instructions for Charging a Lawn Tractor Battery
Step 1: Choose the Right Battery Charger for Your Tractor
When selecting a battery charger for your lawn tractor, you’ll need to pick one that can supply the necessary amount of amperage. Most batteries require between 6 and 10 amps, but you should check your owner’s manual to determine the exact number.
Most chargers offer multiple charge modes, including fast and trickle charge options. Generally, the quick charge is best for topping off quickly, while the slow charge option is better if you’re charging an older battery or one sitting idle for some time.
It’s necessary to note that overcharging can negatively affect your battery, so be aware of the amperage rate when selecting a charger. Also, some chargers come with features such as timers or overheat protection which prevents damage to your vehicle’s battery.
Step 2: Follow the Safety Guidelines
Before you begin charging your lawn tractor battery, you must review and follow all safety guidelines with your charger. Wear protective gear such as gloves and eye protection, and ensure that all cables are connected correctly. Always read and follow the instructions in your battery charger’s manual
Be sure to place the charger in a cool, dry area away from flammable materials. Lastly, disconnect all power to the lawn tractor before beginning the charging process.
Step 3: Prepare the Battery for Charging
Prepare your battery for charging by first placing it in a cool, dry place. You should check the battery’s voltage to ensure it has enough power to start the tractor. If not, you need to replace the battery before charging it.
Once the battery is ready, you’ll need to connect the charging cables. Start by connecting the positive red cable to the battery’s positive terminal and then connect the black negative cable to the negative terminal.
Ensure that both cables are securely connected and not touching any metal parts inside or outside your tractor.
Step 4: Charge the Battery
Once the cables are in place, plug the charger into an electrical outlet and turn it on. The charger will indicate if the battery is charging or discharging. If the charger indicates that it is charging, then you can select your preferred charging mode.
Once it’s finished charging, turn off the charger and disconnect both cables. Make sure to remove them in the reverse order, starting with the negative cable first. Store your charger somewhere safe when you’re not using it, and check your battery periodically to ensure it is working correctly.
Tips for Charging a Lawn Tractor Battery
- Always follow the safety guidelines outlined in your charger’s manual.
- Wear protective gear when handling or connecting battery cables.
- Check your battery’s voltage before charging to ensure it has enough power to start the tractor.
- Be aware of the amperage rate when selecting a charger, and don’t overcharge the battery.
- Disconnect all power to the tractor before beginning the charging process.
- Select a charger with features such as a timer or overheat protection to prevent damage.
- Avoid using low-quality chargers or chargers that have been modified in any way, as this can harm both the battery and your lawn mower.
- Never attempt to charge a hot battery, as this is very dangerous and could lead to fire hazards.
- Never use your battery charger to jump-start a car; use jumper cables instead.
Finally, never place the battery near any flammable materials or sources of heat while charging, as this could cause it to overheat and damage your mower.
When to Charge the Battery?
The best time to charge a lawn mower battery is when you first purchase it and after each use. This will ensure that your battery is always in the best condition and ready for use. If you notice any signs of failure coming from your mower’s engine or slow starting times, it is a sign that your battery is running low and needs to be recharged.
Besides regularly charging after each use, you should charge your lawn mower battery at least once a month, even if it’s not used. This helps maintain an optimal charge level and ensures the battery’s internal stability isn’t compromised by overcharging or undercharging.
It’s necessary to know when not to charge your battery too. Never attempt to charge a hot battery, as this could cause irreversible damage and put you at risk of fire hazards. Also, never try to jump-start your lawn mower using the battery charger instead of jumper cables, as this can cause permanent damage to the battery.
Finally, store your lawn mower battery in a cool, dry place when not in use. This will help preserve its charge and prevent corrosion or other issues from developing due to moisture accumulation.
Signs of a Dying Tractor Battery
You don’t have to wait to get a call from a customer that their rental lawn and garden equipment won’t start up to know that a tractor battery is dying. There are signs to keep an eye out for, so you can replace struggling batteries before a customer is stuck without a working machine.
Tractor Struggles to Start. When the tractor takes a long time to start or sputters a few times before the engine turns over and powers up the vehicle, it could mean the battery has lost power and is dying. While it may still turn on eventually, if the battery is dying, the tractor will become less and less reliable at starting up.
The Accessories Won’t Turn On. While the tractor may still start up, the dying battery may cause problems for the tractor’s electrical accessories. The radio may not turn on, or the lights may dim or flicker. This could mean the tractor battery is on its way out.
Poor Voltage Reading. Testing a tractor battery can help determine if the battery is dying. It’s best to test the battery voltage regularly, about twice per year. If the voltage reading is low, under six volts for a 6-volt battery (which is fully charged at around 6.3 to 6.4 volts) or under 12.2 volts for a 12-volt battery, it could mean the battery is dying and needs to be replaced soon.
Corrosion or Damage. Corrosion can naturally build up around the battery terminals. While this buildup is easy to clean, it can become a real issue if neglected. Corrosion can cause more resistance to the electrical circuit, which can cause the battery to start dying prematurely and can even cause further issues to the tractor’s electrical systems. You’ll want to check the battery for corrosion at least every 6 months, and if you see any corrosion, clean it immediately.
Tractor Battery Maintenance Tips
No one wants to end up stuck in the middle of a field with a dead battery, nor do they want to delay the start of a long harvest day with a tractor that won’t start up. Fortunately, there are some ways to ensure a tractor battery lasts as long as possible. With regular inspections and battery tests, it’s easy to identify a dying tractor battery and replace it before it causes any work delays.
Test Battery Voltage. Testing the battery voltage regularly, about twice per year or before and after putting equipment away for winter storage, can help keep tabs on the life of the battery. Make sure to use a multimeter or voltmeter that is equipped for the battery voltage at hand.
For example, make sure to set the multimeter higher than the voltage, such as setting it up to 20 volts, before getting a reading for an 8-volt battery. In this instance, the 8-volt battery should read about 8.5 to 8.8 when fully charged. If the readings are low, it may be time to check for damage or go ahead and replace the battery.
Recharge the Battery. It’s not just electric batteries that need to be recharged; even traditional flooded batteries need a recharge once in a while. Batteries are recharged by a vehicle’s alternator as the vehicle runs, but you may need to recharge the battery before or after storing the tractor away for the off-season. You can fill the tractor battery charge by connecting it to a trickle battery charger for about 12 to 24 hours.
Clean Off Corrosion. Because corrosion can prevent the battery from running efficiently, it’s important to clean off any buildup before it causes serious and expensive problems to the battery and the vehicle. Be sure to wear protective gear, then carefully disconnect and remove the battery from the tractor before cleaning. The corrosion can be removed with a rag dipped in a paste made from baking soda and water.
Store the Battery Properly. Taking care of the battery in the off months is just as important as refilling the electrolyte and turning off the electronics when the tractor is used daily in the spring through fall harvest. Keeping a battery in the tractor can cause a slow battery drain, and the rate of discharge is even worse if the tractor is stored at freezing temperatures. It’s best to remove the battery and store it on a flat, stable surface away from heat or light, ideally at a temperature of 50°F to 60°F.
Even with proper storage, the battery will discharge at about 1% per day. Charging the battery fully before storing it can help prevent a dead battery, but you may also want to connect the battery to a Smart charger when it is in storage. The Smart charger can recharge the battery as needed without overcharging the battery, so when the spring comes again, the battery is fully charged and ready to go.
With all of these tips in mind, you can spot (and replace) an aging battery before it leaves riders stranded mid-field with more to plant, fertilize or harvest. Plus, keeping up with maintenance will ensure you get the most life out of the battery, no matter what type. If you have trouble finding the right battery for your equipment, contact Continental Battery Systems today.
The right way to care for your NiMH battery
A NiMH battery needs to stay out of the heat, to charge with its original charger and to be drained to zero percent every few months.
If you’re using your power drill for a few hours every day, a NiMH battery is perfect. NiMH batteries are handy for power tools. They weigh less, carry more power and last longer between charges than a NiCd battery.
They don’t do well in storage. NiMH batteries will drain themselves. It’s not as quick as a NiCd battery. All the same, you’ll want to use your NiMH-powered drill every other day to get the most life from the battery.
Recharging NiMH batteries uses a special algorithm. Don’t use a NiCd charger on a NiMH battery. It can hurt the battery’s lifespan if not overcharge it. Keep the charger that came with the power tool. You can replace it, but make sure it’s specifically made for NiMH batteries.
Mow power to your lawn mower and weed whacker battery
You just jumped your riding lawn mower? Might be time for a new battery. Go for lawn garden batteries and power tool rebuilds, available at select Interstate All Battery Center ® locations.
NiMH batteries struggle with heat. That’s a problem because a NiMH battery will heat up as it runs power or charges. Be gentle with it. Take it off the charger early if the case feels warm. Also, let it cool down before you recharge after it charges.
You can expect a long, full life out of your NiMH battery by keeping it in use and near its original charger.
The right way to care for your Li-ion battery
Lithium-ion batteries weigh the least and offer the longest life overall, but they’re sensitive to getting dropped, overheated or overcharged. How you protect your phone battery would work on your lithium-ion power drill:
- Keep it away from heat.
- Don’t leave it on the charger.
- Don’t let it ever run down to zero percent.
Store a li-ion battery at 80 percent power, not 100 percent. This battery type doesn’t drain itself that quickly. It’ll hold charge for weeks.
The way to take care of your lithium-ion battery is to charge it before it drops to 20 percent. Keep it charged between 40 percent and 80 percent. You can top it up to 100 percent before you sand the deck or trim the hedges. Just don’t leave it fully charged.
Staying at 100 percent corrodes the active materials, which means the battery can’t hold as much electricity as before. The same happens if it ever drains to zero, but faster. Check the power level while you work. Stop and recharge it if you’re close to 25 percent left.
Take care of your lithium-ion battery, and it’ll keep powering on.
Leaving your power tools on the charger does not help the battery.
Trying to charge a battery that’s already full can damage it. Most battery chargers will stop charging if the battery is full.
The built-in protection means it should be safe to leave it on the charger, right? Not quite.
Only lead-acid batteries like to stay fully charged. The other battery types need exercise. They’ll drain themselves, even if sitting on a shelf. That’s okay, depending on the battery type. All battery types need exercise. Leaving them on the charger robs batteries of that exercise.
A battery on the charger will go through short run-and-recharge cycles. It’ll drain to 99 percent, recharge, drain again and recharge again. Those short cycles hurt most batteries. Instead, your power tool batteries need to keep the electrons flowing.
Consider it another good reason to do those house projects today.
Revive your power tools.
All rechargeable batteries wear down. But you don’t have to throw out your favorite tool! Rebuild its battery at select Interstate All Battery Center ® locations.