Heart pacemaker. Battery booster machine

Heart pacemaker

A pacemaker is a small, battery-operated device. This device senses when your heart is beating too slowly. It sends a signal to your heart that makes your heart beat at the correct pace.


Newer pacemakers weigh as little as 1 ounce (28 grams). Most pacemakers have 2 parts:

  • The generator contains the battery and the information to control the heartbeat.
  • The leads which are wires that connect the heart to the generator and carry the electrical messages to the heart.

A pacemaker is implanted under the skin. This procedure takes about 1 hour in most cases. You will be given a sedative to help you relax. You will be awake during the procedure.

A small incision (cut) is made. Most often, the cut is on the left side (if you are right handed) of the chest below your collarbone. The pacemaker generator is then placed under the skin at this location. The generator may also be placed in the abdomen, but this is less common. A new leadless pacemaker is a self-contained unit that is implanted in the right ventricle of the heart.

Using live x-rays to see the area, the doctor puts the leads through the cut, into a vein, and then into the heart. The leads are connected to the generator. The skin is closed with stitches. Most people go home within 1 day of the procedure.

There are 2 kinds of pacemakers used only in medical emergencies. They are:

They are not permanent pacemakers.

Why the Procedure is Performed

Pacemakers may be used for people who have heart problems that cause their heart to beat too slowly. A slow heartbeat is called bradycardia. Two common problems that cause a slow heartbeat are sinus node disease and heart block.

When your heart beats too slowly, your body and brain may not get enough oxygen. Symptoms may be

Some pacemakers can be used to stop a heart rate that is too fast (tachycardia) or that is irregular.

Other types of pacemakers can be used in severe heart failure. These are called biventricular pacemakers. They help coordinate the beating of the heart chambers.

Most biventricular pacemakers implanted today can also work as implantable cardioverter defibrillators (ICD). ICD restore a normal heartbeat by delivering a larger shock when a potentially deadly fast heart rhythm occurs.


Possible complications of pacemaker surgery are:

  • Abnormal heart rhythms
  • Bleeding
  • Punctured lung. This is rare.
  • Infection
  • Puncture of the heart, which can lead to bleeding around the heart. This is rare.

A pacemaker senses if the heartbeat is above a certain rate. When it is above that rate, the pacemaker will stop sending signals to the heart. The pacemaker can also sense when the heartbeat slows down too much. It will automatically start pacing the heart again.

Before the Procedure

Always tell your health care provider about all the drugs you are taking, even drugs or herbs you bought without a prescription.

The day before your surgery:

  • Shower and shampoo well.
  • You may be asked to wash your whole body below your neck with a special soap.

On the day of the surgery:

  • You may be asked not to drink or eat anything after midnight the night before your procedure. This includes chewing gum and breath mints. Rinse your mouth with water if it feels dry, but be careful not to swallow.
  • Take the drugs you have been told to take with a small sip of water.

Your provider will tell you when to arrive at the hospital.

After the Procedure

You will probably be able to go home after 1 day or even the same day in some cases. You should be able to return to your normal activity level quickly.

Ask your provider how much you can use the arm on the side of your body where the pacemaker was placed. You may be advised not to:

  • Lift anything heavier than 10 to 15 pounds (4.5 to 6.75 kilograms)
  • Push, pull, and twist your arm for 2 to 3 weeks.
  • Raise your arm above your shoulder for several weeks.

When you leave the hospital, you will be given a card to keep in your wallet. This card lists the details of your pacemaker and has contact information for emergencies. You should always carry this wallet card with you. You should try to remember the name of the pacemaker manufacturer if you can in case you lose your card.

Outlook (Prognosis)

Pacemakers can help keep your heart rhythm and heart rate at a safe level for you. The pacemaker battery lasts about 6 to 15 years. Your provider will check the battery regularly and replace it when necessary.

Alternative Names

Cardiac pacemaker implantation; Artificial pacemaker; Permanent pacemaker; Internal pacemaker; Cardiac resynchronization therapy; CRT; Biventricular pacemaker; Arrhythmia. pacemaker; Abnormal heart rhythm. pacemaker; Bradycardia. pacemaker; Heart block. pacemaker; Mobitz. pacemaker; Heart failure. pacemaker; HF. pacemaker; CHF- pacemaker


  • Pacemaker


Chung MK, Daubert JP. Pacemakers and implantable cardioverter-defibrillators. In: Libby P, Bonow RO, Mann DL, Tomaselli GF, Bhatt DL, Solomon SD, eds. Braunwald’s Heart Disease: A Textbook of Cardiovascular Medicine. 12th ed. Philadelphia, PA: Elsevier; 2022:chap 69.

Epstein AE, DiMarco JP, Ellenbogen KA, et al. 2012 ACCF/AHA/HRS focused update incorporated into the ACCF/AHA/HRS 2008 guidelines for device-based therapy of cardiac rhythm abnormalities: a report of the American College of Cardiology Foundation/American Heart Association Task Force on practice guidelines and the Heart Rhythm Society. J Am Coll Cardiol. 2013;61(3):e6-e75. PMID: 23265327 pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23265327/.

Miller JM, Ellenbogen KA. Therapy for cardiac arrhythmias. In: Libby P, Bonow RO, Mann DL, Tomaselli GF, Bhatt DL, Solomon SD, eds. Braunwald’s Heart Disease: A Textbook of Cardiovascular Medicine. 12th ed. Philadelphia, PA: Elsevier; 2022:chap 64.

heart, pacemaker, battery, booster

Pfaff JA, Gerhardt RT. Assessment of implantable devices. In: Roberts JR, Custalow CB, Thomsen TW, eds. Roberts and Hedges’ Clinical Procedures in Emergency Medicine and Acute Care. 7th ed. Philadelphia, PA: Elsevier; 2019:chap 13.

Review Date 10/5/2022

Updated by: Thomas S. Metkus, MD, Assistant Professor of Medicine and Surgery, Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine, Baltimore, MD. Also reviewed by David C. Dugdale, MD, Medical Director, Brenda Conaway, Editorial Director, and the A.D.A.M. Editorial team.

Introduction: How to Fix Corroded Battery Terminals

About: I’ve always liked pulling things apart. it’s the putting back together again that I have some issues with! About lonesoulsurfer »

Many a time I’ve managed to get my hands on some electronic gizmo only to find that the battery compartment totally corroded. It’s usually one of the main reasons I think that people throw toys and whatever else takes batteries away.

The corrosion is caused by potassium hydroxide which can leak out of alkaline batteries (these are the usual types of batteries you put inside toys etc). All batteries discharge, either through use or just slowly through the production of hydrogen gas which forms pressure in the battery. Eventually that pressure will find a way out through a seal or as the battery ages, through corrosion or rust in the outer shell.

As soon as the first signs of a leak forms, then the best thing to do is to get rid of the battery. if you don’t get to it in time however, then the corrosion can grow and spread out of the battery which causes oxidisation and corrosion of the terminals making your device caput.

This Instructable will go through a couple of ways that you can fix your device to bring it back to life again. The first is the most extreme corrosion where the terminals have to be replaced, the second is a small amount of oxidisation which only needed the potassium hydroxide to be neutralised and the terminals to be cleaned.

You can take precautions though to stop this happening such as not mixing different battery types in the same device, replacing all of the batteries at the same time, storing in a dry place and at room temperature, and removing batteries for storage of devices. I’m inherently optimistic (and also lazy) so I’ve never taken any of these precautions but it’s definitely good practice, especially with expensive electronic goods.

Step 1: Parts and Tools

Your parts are going to be any electronic goods that need terminal cleaning and/or relacing. The following though will come in handy when you are going this type of work

Battery Holders. I have a bunch of these lying around which are good for projects. You can also use the terminals from them to repair other electronic goods.

You can also just buy these terminals from eBay

Rubber gloves – to protect your skin from the potassium hydroxide. I have touched it before and it does mildly irritate the skin so it’s best to use gloves when handling.

Eye protection – self explanatory

heart, pacemaker, battery, booster

Protective mouth and nose mask. Potassium hydroxide can be quite dangerous and breathing it in can be toxic. Better to be safe then sorry.

Step 2: Removing Leaking Batteries

Don’t use your fingers to try and remove the batteries. The potassium hydroxide inside the battery can irritate your skin (I know as I’ve touched it before!). Potassium hydroxide is a caustic agent and is the chemical that corrodes the terminals and destroys the batteries. You may have also seen a feathery crystalline structure forming around the battery and terminal as well. This is potassium carbonate and forms when the potassium hydroxide reacts with carbon dioxide in the air.

heart, pacemaker, battery, booster

For those who want to understand more about the chemical components inside an alkaline battery, please check out the following

Place a set of rubber gloves on and some safety glasses

Use a small screwdriver to pull the batteries out. The glasses here are very important as it is easy to flick small pieces of the corrosion whist pulling out the batteries.

Sometimes that batteries can be so corroded that they virtually weld themselves to the terminals. In this case you will need to use a large screwdriver and maybe some pliers to remove them. You’ll probably rip out the terminals as well so be careful you don’t pull any wires out at the same time

Dispose of the batteries in a plastic bag.

Step 3: Removing the Corroded Terminals

Next thing to do is to remove all of the corroded terminals. It can be tricky sometimes to do this if they are severely corroded as bits can break off and the grooves in the battery holder can get clogged-up.

Use a small, thin screwdriver and push this between the top of the terminal and the battery holder. This should bend out the terminal

With a pair of needle nosed pliers, grab hold of the terminal and pull it out.

If the terminal has solder points, make sure you de-solder or cut the wires and cut them away to be able to remove them easily

Dispose of the corroded terminals once removed

Step 4: Cleaning the Battery Cover

The battery holder that I fixed came away from the torch so make it easy to wash and clean. However, this might not always be the case as it will depend on what type of electronics you are cleaning.

You can neutralise any leftover potassium hydroxide (a caustic agent which acts a little like acid) with some vinegar. Many Комментарии и мнения владельцев have been made on this in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section and initially I also included baking soda as a way to neutralise the alkaline. I’ve removed this as there is a fair bit of contention if this would actually work or not.

Next if possible, wash out the bottom of the battery holder and clean any of the old potassium hydroxide away from the case. If you can’t remove the battery holder, then you are going to have to be a lot more careful when cleaning the area. Use a damp cloth instead of running water and remove any leftover potassium hydroxide residue

Next, you may need to remove any pieces of terminal or corrosion that is in-between the grooves that the terminals sit in. Use something thin and sharp to remove anything lodged inside the grooves.

Lastly, give the area a clean with some Isopropyl Cleaning Alcohol to remove any last traces of oils, stains etc.

Step 5: Sourcing Some Battery Terminals

In some cases, the corrosion is so bad that you need to replace the terminals inside the battery compartment. One of the easiest places to get these is from old battery holders. You could also grab the terminals out of any old electronic parts.

You can also buy the terminals from eBay and I have put a link in the parts section

1 If your battery terminals have tabs on the back, make sure you lift these up first. You might also need to de-solder any wires on them if you got the terminals out of a toy etc.

2 Next, use a small screwdriver to push them out of the battery holder. Just place the tip of the screwdriver into the bottom of the terminal and lift it out of the battery holder. They are held in place by a couple of grooves in the side of the battery holder so should come out relatively easily.

Step 6: Modifying the Battery Terminals

Chances are you will need to modify the battery terminals so they will fit into the batter holder. You can do this pretty easily with some wire cutters and a dremel if you have one.

1 First, try and fit one of the terminals into the battery holder grooves. If it does fit, then you can probably ignore this step and move onto the next. If not, then you will need to modify it.

2 Trim the sides of the terminal with some wire cutters and try to push into the grooves again in the battery holder

heart, pacemaker, battery, booster

3 I also had to add a small slit into the terminal in order for them to fit which I did with a dremel.

4 Once you have modified, it’s then time to add them to the battery holder

Step 7: Putting the Battery Terminals in Place

The first thing to do is to determine the orientation of the terminals. You need to make sure that the spring section on the terminal will be touching the negative part of the battery and the flat section is touching the positive.

Usually you can just look on the bottom of the battery holder and there will be images or the orientation. If not, then work out where the positive wire is going to be connected to the terminal and use this as a guide on the orientation of the terminals.

Place the terminals into the battery holder grooves and push into place. If they are a little loose then usually the batteries will hold them into place. However, you can slightly bend the terminal and push it back into the grooves which will make the fit a little tighter.

Once you have all of the terminals in place, solder the positive and negative wires to the solder points on the terminals

Step 8: Add Some Fresh Batteries and Test

Before you screw everything back into place, add some batteries and make sure everything works as it should.

If everything works ok – replace the screws and covers and whatever else needs replacing to finish off your part

Lastly, give it another test and make sure it works

Now if you don’t want to have to do this all over again, go back to the intro and follow the precautions

This is really the most extreme case of having to fix battery terminals. The next sample, I think is more common and is more oxidisation of the terminals due to some leakage of the batteries. It’s easier too to fix!

Step 9: Fixing Oxidised and Minor Corroded Terminals

I found this cool, vintage mike at the dump and wanted to try and get it going again. Initially I tested it not knowing that it needed an AA battery and thought it was probably something to do with the wiring. After un-screwing the case however, I discovered that it needed a AA battery to run. The battery had been in place for some time and the terminals were oxidised and had some minor corrosion damage. I could have replaced the terminals but decided it would be easier just cleaning them

Remove the old battery with a screwdriver and dispose of. Even though there was not as much damage and leakage as the first sample, I still made sure that I wore gloves and eye protection. They are considered safe to dispose of in the bin (imagine how many batteries get thrown away each day!) but there might be some local laws that require you to dispose of them in other ways

You can see in the images that there is a little corrosion and potassium hydroxide on the end of the terminal but that the terminal itself looks relatively unaffected structurally.

The brown streaks you can see running through the middle of the battery holder is actually glue that has discoloured over time, not corrosion

The next step is to neutralise the alkaline from the potassium hydroxide.

Step 10: Neutralise the Acid

Next thing to do is to neutralise any residual potassium hydroxide left of the terminals. There have been many Комментарии и мнения владельцев left on how best to neutralise the corrosives from the potassium hydroxide. As potassium hydroxide is a strong base, then an acid like vinegar or lemon juice is probably the best thing to use when neutralising an alkaline like potassium hydroxide.

Here’s a little more information on acids and bases for those who are interested and how to neutralising.

First thing to do is to add the vinegar to a small container like a bottle cap lid.

Next, add a little to each terminal with a small paint brush or something similar.

Wipe off any excess from the terminals and leave to dry

Now that the potassium hydroxide has been neutralised, it’s time to clean-up the terminals

Step 11: Cleaning Up the Terminals

You need to remove any oxidisation and corrosion from the terminals. I find that the best thing to use is a small file but you could use sandpaper or an emery board or nail file as well.

Use a small, fine file on the terminal until the oxidisation and any corrosion is removed. You may not be able to get it all off but sure you get as much as possible.

Once you have removed the oxidisation, give the terminals a clean with some isopropyl alcohol. You can also add some non-oxidising grease to help stop any further oxidisation.

You can sometimes remove the terminals from the grooves without having to undo any screws or removing any wires. It can make it easier to file if you can do this – just be careful that you don’t break any wires etc.

Step 12: Add a Fresh Battery and Test

Once the terminals are clean and back into place, you can add a battery/s and test.

As before, it’s best to test before you screw everything back into place

That’s it! Hopefully you have managed to bring something back to life again with only a little bit of work.

Do you have any other tips? Let me know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев

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For the Yard

Metal Contest

5 Комментарии и мнения владельцев

Thanks for the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. I have updated the section in the Instructable on what to use to neutralise the Potassium Hydroxide that can be produced in Alkaline batteries.

Hello I had a question this is my father’s basically antique ohmmeter or multimeter and it worked not a month ago and I just tested a few batteries in the house trying to get to know how to use this I get many manuals from online how to store it properly and everything like that took it out to use it today didn’t work didn’t seem to read anything I didn’t read that it had batteries and sure enough this is what about what led me to believe I see it was a little bit of white dust inside the clear display. The leads and everything are connected and all the blue dust and white dust was definite there before I did I just I’m devastated because my father definitely took care of this and made mention to take care of it of course I did like three at most but you can tell these batteries are very old they are 2014 expired Gucci batteries are about 10 years before anyway these batteries in this situation I just wondered does it look really bad and do I have to use vinegar and everything to get rid of this should I act now or just kind of clean away with a brush get two new batteries and see if it works? I had several small devices happen this way and I just remove the batteries in kind of filed away or any rust usually but didn’t know I had to go to any extensive measures to get the device working again and I have to reiterate this is definitely A prized possession of my fathers and is an antique and well-known online it’s not worth much but I’d rather just get this taken care of and not even let him know lol. Love the video or the instructional guide and definitely the best online because videos don’t always suit everybody for like learning and stuff so I just wanted to ask anybody to be any advice if I have to go to the extent of using vinegar which I have here or can I just dust it out? Scrap/ file the metal connectors? Yes I said this work not even a month ago and it was stored in bubble wrap in plastic and everything like the way it was given to me so I didn’t know if this was something I did or just old batteries and device I guess? The white dust in the casing is definitely new and kind of noticeable and the blue stuff looks a little fresh? I know I just blew on it and it got in my eyes because I am an idiot I guess. I just wanna proceed with caution because this is a pretty precise measuring device and don’t want to go at it like I would an old TV changer or something like that any help would be greatly appreciated thanks so much

The absolute best thing you can do is to buy a small jar of Caig De-Oxit D100.(https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-Laboratories-D100L-2DB-Electric-Cleaner/dp/B0002BBVN2). Buy the small bottle that comes with an applicator brush in the cap. It’s like a nail polish bottle.It may seem expensive, but a little goes a long way and it will last you for many years. I discovered it many years ago. I only just recently had to purchase a new bottle.

It prevents corrosion of the terminals. It helps clean corroded ones.You will never have to “shake” a flashlight again to get it to work.If your batteries do leak, it’s much easier to clean up the mess.

Any/every time I install or replace batteries I always put some on the terminals and the ends of the batteries.

Oh, and don’t buy batteries at the dollar store. They are not worth the money you save.Buy a name brand.

Finally, I’ve found that buying batteries online is sketchy at best. Sometimes they are at or past expiration. Some come loose packed (not in original card packages). I think those may be rejects, or possibly used. I now only buy batteries from retail stores (Home Depot, COSTCO etc),

(Note on my comment regarding used batteries. Many companies replace batteries in their devices on a schedule, rather than waiting for them to die. This results in a box of used, but not quite dead yet batteries, which I suspect find themselves somehow on Amazon, EBay etc.).

This is it right here. Couldn’t agree more that Caig De-oxit is the best product to clean and support battery terminals, switches or contacts. Been using it for many years. Clean up the nasty bits with vinegar and a small brush, use denatured alcohol to clean up anything else and top it off with De-oxit. Do not use water around your battery terminals or electronics.

I have used De-oxit for years in my 2 way radios, flashlights, department pagers, scanners, and ham gear, never had a battery problem. Of course with my flashlights, I replaced the batteries every spring and fall wither they needed them or not, usually much sooner, used for volunteer fire/rescue work.

That’s what happens when you use Duracell batteries. Great way to clean up the mess that they leave though.

Thanks for the helpful tip.

That’s odd. I’ve never seen a “copper top” leak/corrode and now use them (or the new quantums exclusively.I’ve seen way too many pink bunny battries leak.

When I buy something (like a TV remote) that comes with batteries, I always throw those questionable,ones away and use copper tops.

All alkaline batteries will eventually leak if you store them in a warm humid place. I’ve had to have Duracell replace two entire 40-packs of AA batteries because they were stored in a laundry room. They replaced them immediately at no charge. Still my favorite brand.

The Duracell copper tops do leak. I have four from a battery powered lamp that I had to replace yesterday.

ALL brands will leak, eventually.Duracell and Energizer brands will replace a damaged device due to leaking.

I have been using a very simple method for 65 years and my parents used this method before me, so I don’t know how many years this has been common knowledge. I have never failed to permanently restore even the most corroded terminals on vehicle batteries or any other battery-dependent item. It is a three-step process: take some regular cold, very strong black tea, pour it on the terminals as you scrub with an old toothbrush. Let it dry, and then coat terminals heavily with vaseline. Put your new batteries back in. I have never had to dismantle any mechanism, and have had 100% success using this very simple method.

Nice. I’ll have to give this a try!

Hentyharp hasn’t come across some of the vehicle terminals I’ve seen! Black tea won’t replace lost metal. I’m curious to see how it performs on less radical cases, though. Great to see so many fellow ‘rescuers’ on here. I do hate the bin it buy new culture.

Actually, it will. The tannic acid in black tea will (eventually) reduce the oxidized metal back to base metal again. But the amount of tannic acid in black tea is extremely weak. White vinegar will do a much better job, much more quickly. In a pinch, you can also use the carbonic acid in cola or any other soda pop. It will work better than the tea, but not as well as vinegar.

Black tea would contain some acid which could help neutralize an alkaline liquid but your choice of Vaseline to protect may be a bit flawed. It is a product which can and will migrate once it is warmed up. It goes from being a thick lubricant to runny. I was introduced to something called anti-oxide battery grease and it was used to protect start battery terminals (batteries for starting large diesel electric plants). Anyway it is quite tarry. It may even have something in it to keep it in place like some sort of fibre. I have used it for years on my own automobiles and once applied I never again have to clean, scrape, or wash off the terminals. You need to treat the nuts and bolts too. Yes it would work on other things like flashlight battery terminals. One other area people don’t think about is turn signal lights. Water containing salt gets into the sockets of turn signals during the winter, the stuff used to make the roads safe to travel on in the winter. The thing to do is smear something like silicon grease all over the light contacts and socket contacts and put the bulbs back in. That will stop corrosion in those lights. I just Googled anti-oxide battery grease and a Amazon item came up. It was No-OX-ID in an 8 oz tube. That would probably last a long time. There are similar products. I have no idea who made the stuff I was using.

See my post on using light mineral oil. It is easier to use than greases.

How to Use Jumper Cables and Jump Start a Car the Right Way

You’re going to want to teach your teen before they get behind the wheel.

Anyone with a new driver in the family wants to be sure that they’re doing everything possible to stay safe in the road. And, as the weather gets colder, there is so much more to cover: how to winter-proof your car, how to drive cautiously in ice and snow, and how to trouble-shoot cold-weather problems. For example, if the key turns and the car doesn’t start, it’s likely the battery that’s the problem. But does your teen driver know how to use jumper cables safely?

First, make sure it’s the battery.

If you turn the key and your car does absolutely nothing, then there’s a good chance the battery is dead. But if you turn the key and you hear the engine cranking, then your problem is most likely something else.

Gather the supplies.

It’s a good idea to keep a just-in-case of emergency stash in your car, including jumper cables as well as a first aid kit, flashlight, and a spare tire at the very least, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. You might also want to consider a jump-start power pack, in case you don’t have another running car nearby when you need a jump. It’s an added security measure with a dedicated power bank to give you the boost instead of relying on another car.’

From Good Housekeeping

Also, depending on where you battery is located, you may need a screwdriver — it’s a good idea to keep that in your stash as well.

Okay, time for the jump.

Complete details on jump-starting a car vary from car to car, so be sure to check your owner’s manual for accurate information about your make and model, but here are the general instructions:

Step 1: Before you attempt to jump start the car, make sure both batteries are of similar voltage or you risk damaging electrical components.

Step 2: Get the cars as close together as possible but do not allow the cars to touch one another.

Step 3: With both cars off and in park, connect the jumper cables in the following order:

  • Connect one red clamp to the positive battery post of the dead battery.
  • Connect the other red clamp to the positive post of the good battery.
  • Connect one black-end clamp to the negative (-) post of the good battery.
  • Carefully connect the other black-end clamp to some large metallic part of your car’s engine block. Never connect it to the negative (-) post of the dead battery. This causes sparking, which could ignite battery gases.

Step 4: Start the working car and run it at idling speed for a few minutes. After letting it run, start the dead car. Once your dead car has started and is running, immediately disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order.

Your car is running, but your job isn’t over.

Once you get your car running again, make sure to let it run idle for at least 30 minutes or drive it around for a little while to recharge the battery. After that, take it in to a garage. Once you jump start your car, it’s a good idea to get your battery tested — which you can often do for free at an auto parts store — and see if it requires replacement, Rothman says. They can also test your voltage. The last thing you want is to have to go through the whole thing over again the next time you try to start your car.

Or, you can fall back on roadside assistance.

If jumping the car yourself still seems overwhelming, or you really want the ultimate peace of mind with your teen driver out on the road, it might be worth it to sign up for roadside assistance. Sometimes, it comes as an add-on with your car insurance. If not, there’s always AAA, whose membership includes 4 roadside assistance calls per year and unlimited battery jumpstart/replacements (among other benefits). It might be worth it just so you don’t have to worry about your teen being stuck somewhere with a dead battery.

Say Goodbye to Dangerous Jump-Starting with CTEK CS Free

Hazel Nicole Carreon Today

The most common way to deal with a dead battery is by jump-starting it. While this may help you restart your car, it can also damage the highly sensitive electronics in your car, resulting in costly repairs, as well as permanently harm your battery.


What batteries are compatible with the CS Free?

Over 200 mini-computers, also known as ECUs, are found in modern cars today. These ECUs handle everything from engine management to lighting, air-conditioning, and parking sensors.

These computer systems are sensitive to around 16 volts, but jump-starting your car’s lead-acid battery results in a surge of power of up to 20 volts, which is akin to being struck by lightning. This sudden surge in voltage can easily destroy one of these ECUs.

When you jump-start a vehicle, the battery booster pack serves as a power reserve to start the engine, briefly bypassing the depleted battery. When you disconnect the booster pack while the engine is running, the alternator suddenly detects an empty battery and responds by opening the floodgates to fill it. This abrupt increase in voltage that results from the substantial spike in current is what causes harm.

When you jump start a car, the alternator is supplying current at a rate that is more than the battery can tolerate. This results in the battery heating up, which distorts the battery plates, causing the active material to break down and producing an accumulation of debris at the bottom of the battery. Your battery’s efficiency and lifespan will be reduced by this damage, requiring an earlier replacement.

If you encounter a dead battery, the best way to start your car is to utilize a tool that can evaluate the battery’s condition and then intelligently apply a progressive charge. CTEK’s fully portable CS Free, which uses proprietary adaptive boost technology, can get you moving again in about 15 minutes.

Since the CS Free gently recharges the battery and alerts you when it is safe to start the car, this is completely risk-free for the electronics in your car. The battery is already halfway full when the CS Free is unplugged, so the alternator only slightly raises the charge — within appropriate limits — to top up the battery.

The CS Free functions not only as an adaptive booster, but also as a battery charger, a Smart maintainer, and a power bank. The battery life can be extended up to three times if you regularly maintenance charge your battery with the CS Free.

All types of 12V lead-acid battery and lithium batteries are compatible with the CTEK CS Free.

Photos from CTEK Philippines and File

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