Charging Lithium Batteries: The Basics. 100ah battery charger

Charging Lithium Batteries: The Basics

When purchasing from our company, the process of charging lithium batteries becomes an everyday part of the routine, and we understand that there’s a lot of information about our products. Whether it’s about how the technology accepts a charge or best charging practices, we’re here to outline the basics. Whether it’s best charging practices about lithium batteries, to more information about how they cycle and can be charged in order to keep your battery system running efficiently, our team is here to help.

How can I charge a LiFePO4 battery?

Our team gets this question daily, and we have a blog post on charging LiFePO4 batteries that helps address that topic. There are three main ways to charge a system: solar, alternator, and shore.

Battle Born Batteries only sells accessories from brands we know to produce quality products. One such company is Victron Energy. Battle Born is a master dealer of Victron components because they are reliable and well-built. They even offer the Victron Connect phone app where you can view all the details of your Bluetooth-capable devices.

Our team also recommends components from Progressive Dynamics and Magnum. We have plenty for purchase, so check out our store if you’re looking for more power!

One component we often recommend is the Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT charge controllers for systems equipped with solar. With Solar Charge Controllers we recommend the following settings:

We also frequently suggest Victron’s IP-65 Blue Smart Charger because it’s waterproof, Bluetooth compatible, and has a charging profile for lithium batteries and other battery chemistries. This device connects directly to the battery and is meant for single-battery charging. It’s great for those with trolling motor applications or those with battery systems connected in series.

For alternator charging, we often recommend using a DC-to-DC charger or battery-to-battery charger. The Victron Orion-TR Smart DC-DC isolated charger is an adaptive, three-stage charger with algorithms for bulk, absorption, and float options.

You also can mix battery chemistries safely with this device, such as your AGM starting battery to your lithium house bank. Aim for a range between 14.2V and 14.6V with bulk and absorption stages and for the float stage, 13.6V is best.

While lithium batteries technically don’t need to be floated, a good majority of the devices out there still have a float charge mode. The batteries naturally float at 13.6V but reaching 14.6V is ideal and needs to happen in order to engage its balancing mechanisms.

Do I have to buy a special charger for LiFePO4 batteries?

Addressing this question, our COO. Sean. highlights how a retrofit kit from Progressive Dynamics with a con verter system has lithium battery charging options. A nother charger we recommend is a Progressive Dynamics Inteli.Power 9100 because of how easy they are to incorporate and install into your system. in addition to any Victron component.

Can I Charge My L ithium B atteries Using The Alternator?

Alternator charging is a common method to recharge lithium batteries. Charging from your alternator is a great option, however, you will need some extra equipment, like a battery isolation manager (BIM).

A well-known industry tool, this component is programmed specifically to run with our batteries. It helps with simultaneously monitoring the house and starter bank and has high internal resistance. It can certainly take more power from the alternator when compared to lead-acid batteries.

The BIM provides an extra layer of safety to make sure you don’t damage your system of three or more lithium batteries when charging from the alternator during a long drive. If you have less than three of our batteries in your system, a BIM isn’t exactly required, and instead, you can use a standard isolator. They can regulate the current up to 220 amps and prevent damaging the alternator during a long drive.

Sterling Alternator Protection devices (APD) are also available in our store to prevent damage from surges. These devices turn on with a small resistive load of milli-amp hours to reduce a possible increase in voltage due to cables breaking or any other issues. If the increase is excessively rough, it can lead to serious APD damage, but your alternator, batteries, and regulators have been protected.

The Lithium Battery Charging C ycle : to float or not to float?

Our lithium batteries don’t need to be float-charged.

When it comes to the charging cycle and our batteries, they do not need to float. When you ’re charging lithium batteries up fully. you can disconnect your charger and leave them in storage. Please note that batteries will lose a bit of charge over time, but it won’t damage the battery. They might need to be topped off when bringing them out of storage. There is no need to trickle charge your Battle Born Batteries.

However, if you have an RV with a battery bank plugged into shore, you should avoid runnin g your appliances off the battery bank. Unless you are utilizing a cutoff switch in your system, you do not have a choice to where the 12v comes from. Our team recommends that if you have a fixed voltage output converter, it’s best to use a disconnect switch to remove the batteries from the circuit and allow them to rest.

If you have a multistage charger or converter, you are able to keep the batteries in the circuit because they will be able to rest at an acceptable voltage in the final stage of the charge.

When charging a lead – acid battery, the three main stages are bulk, absorption, and float. Occasionally. there are equalization and maintenance stages for lead – acid batteries as well. This differs significantly from charging lithium batteries and their constant current stage and constant voltage stage. In the constant current stage, it will keep it steady while the battery takes the bulk of its charge. Once the maximum voltage is reached then the charger will hold that voltage and the current will begin to drop as the battery is topped off.

For a lead – acid battery. that constant voltage stage is typically called absorption, and because the lead-acid has a higher resistance. the charger will hit the higher absorption stage halfway through the charg ing cycle. You could be bulk charging at the maximum current for a couple of hours and then you’d have to wait another 2-3 hours in absorption while the battery is being topped off. By contrast, our batteries will stay in the constant current or bu lk stage for almost the entire charge cycle.

Once it hits the maximum voltage, 14.4V, then the battery is basically charged. Now we request that you hold that voltage for 15-20 minutes per battery. It’s not necessarily for the battery to get topped off but it helps the battery balance. Cell voltage starts to separate at maximum voltage. Once that voltage separation happens, we can tell wh ich cell is more charged than the others.

Once we know that, then the battery management system ( BMS ) can initiate a balancing cycle where the highest charged batteries are bled through a resistor, and then all of them can come back down to the same state of charge. Although there is no required absorption for our battery, we use the absorption stage in conventional chargers to balance the cells.

All About Multi-bank Charging:

Multi-bank charging is a great way to balance series-connected battery systems. Connected positive – to – negative to create a 24 V system, it’s important to make sure that the batteries are kept in balance. T he first battery to deplete will enter low voltage disconnect mode. triggering the other battery as well. You’ll end up with a lower capacity system than you think.

This also applies when your system experiences high voltage disconnects, so taking the se steps will protect your system in either of these extreme situations. If you keep them charged up frequently, they will be more likely to stay in balance because the BMS will internal ly balanc e the system. With this multibank charger, output leads are isolated electrically and are still able to connect each individual lead to each battery without disrupting the charge. They will both be ready for discharge and at a full state of charge.

If you want to purchase a multi-bank charger of your own, we suggest the Dual Pro Professional Series Battery charger for your system. It’s also a popular choice among the bass fishing community. It has a specific algorithm for our batteries and is offered in 2 or 4 output options.

What are the proper charging voltages for the 12V, 24V, and 48V lithium batteries?

Our Battle Born Battery charging parameters consist of the following:

Bulk/absorb = 14.2 V – 14.6 V.
Float = 13.6V or lower.
No equalization (or set it to 14.4V if possible).
No temperature compensation.
Absorption time is approximately 20 minutes per battery. if possible.

For a 12 V system, we really want to emphasize reaching 14.2 V – 14.6 V for bu lk and absorption and float to be 13.6 V or lower.

For a 24V system. we suggest a bulk and absorption rate of 28.4 V – 29.2 V and float to 27.2 V or lower. No equalization is required, but if it’s possible we suggest 28.8 V. No temperature compensation is required either, and absorption time is approximately 20 minutes per battery if that is an option.

For a 48 V system, we recommend a bulk and absorption rate of 57.4V and floating it at 56.5 V to 57 V. Sometimes. one of the batteries may trigger a high voltage disconnect in your system. The battery’s internal BMS will help handle a high voltage disconnect. Our team wants to emphasize that. overall, there’s no harm in playing aro und with charge rates to optimize your system.

How long does it take to charg e lithium batteries ?

One of our most frequently asked questions is “how long does it take to charge lithium batteries?”

Our experts note charging time depends on the specific charger in your system. Lithium-ion batteries have low internal resistance. so they will take all the current delivered from the current charge cycle. For example, if you have a 50-amp charger and a single 100-amp hour battery, d ivide the 100 amps by 50 amps to come up with a 2- hour charging time.

Another example is i f you had five 100 Ah ( amp-hour ) batteries for a total of 500 Ah and a 100-amp charger. It would take about 5 hours of charging from empty to 100 percent while factoring in enough time to balance the charg ing cycle. We don’t recommend you exceed this charge rate as it can lead to a shortened battery cycle life. In an emergency. the battery can be charged at a quicker rate if needed. but we don’t recommend you make a habit of emergency charging your battery.

If you have any additional questions on charging lithium batteries. our YouTube channel and frequently asked questions section on our website offers a wealth of information. Need more help? Please direct your questions to our sales and tech team by giving them a call at 855-292-2831 or send ing an email to [email protected].

Charging Lithium Batteries: The Basics

How can I charge a LiFePO4 battery?

Our team gets this question daily, and we have a blog post on charging LiFePO4 batteries that helps address that topic. There are three main ways to charge a system: solar, alternator, and shore.

Our team also recommends components from Progressive Dynamics and Magnum. We have plenty for purchase, so check out our store if you’re looking for more power!

One component we often recommend is the Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT charge controllers for systems equipped with solar. With Solar Charge Controllers we recommend the following settings:

Do I have to buy a special charger for LiFePO4 batteries?

Addressing this question, our COO. Sean. highlights how a retrofit kit from Progressive Dynamics with a con verter system has lithium battery charging options. A nother charger we recommend is a Progressive Dynamics Inteli.Power 9100 because of how easy they are to incorporate and install into your system. in addition to any Victron component.

Can I Charge My L ithium B atteries Using The Alternator?

The BIM provides an extra layer of safety to make sure you don’t damage your system of three or more lithium batteries when charging from the alternator during a long drive. If you have less than three of our batteries in your system, a BIM isn’t exactly required, and instead, you can use a standard isolator. They can regulate the current up to 220 amps and prevent damaging the alternator during a long drive.

The Lithium Battery Charging C ycle : to float or not to float?

Our lithium batteries don’t need to be float-charged.

When it comes to the charging cycle and our batteries, they do not need to float. When you ’re charging lithium batteries up fully. you can disconnect your charger and leave them in storage. Please note that batteries will lose a bit of charge over time, but it won’t damage the battery. They might need to be topped off when bringing them out of storage. There is no need to trickle charge your Battle Born Batteries.

If you have a multistage charger or converter, you are able to keep the batteries in the circuit because they will be able to rest at an acceptable voltage in the final stage of the charge.

For a lead – acid battery. that constant voltage stage is typically called absorption, and because the lead-acid has a higher resistance. the charger will hit the higher absorption stage halfway through the charg ing cycle. You could be bulk charging at the maximum current for a couple of hours and then you’d have to wait another 2-3 hours in absorption while the battery is being topped off. By contrast, our batteries will stay in the constant current or bu lk stage for almost the entire charge cycle.

All About Multi-bank Charging:

What are the proper charging voltages for the 12V, 24V, and 48V lithium batteries?

Our Battle Born Battery charging parameters consist of the following:

Bulk/absorb = 14.2 V – 14.6 V.
Float = 13.6V or lower.
No equalization (or set it to 14.4V if possible).
No temperature compensation.
Absorption time is approximately 20 minutes per battery. if possible.

For a 12 V system, we really want to emphasize reaching 14.2 V – 14.6 V for bu lk and absorption and float to be 13.6 V or lower.

How long does it take to charg e lithium batteries ?

One of our most frequently asked questions is “how long does it take to charge lithium batteries?”

If you have any additional questions on charging lithium batteries. our YouTube channel and frequently asked questions section on our website offers a wealth of information. Need more help? Please direct your questions to our sales and tech team by giving them a call at 855-292-2831 or send ing an email to [email protected].

How to choose the correct battery charger

Let me start with a disclaimer: BatteryStuff.com does not sell inexpensive, off-the-shelf battery chargers often found at retail outlets and certain other online stores. We cater specifically to microprocessor-controlled chargers, also known as Smart chargers. All the chargers we stock are reviewed, tested and selected based on function, reliability and durability.

This type of battery charger is designed to charge lead acid and other types of batteries based on computer-generated algorithms. Simply put, the charger collects information from the battery and adjusts the charge current and voltage based on this information. This allows the battery to be charged quickly, correctly, and completely when using a Smart charger. All the chargers we sell can remain connected to a battery indefinitely and will not overcharge or damage it.

Simple steps to select the right battery charger for your needs:

Step 1: Choosing a Charger Based on Battery Type

Whether your battery is maintenance free, wet cell (flooded), AGM (absorbed glass mat), gel cell or VRLA (valve-regulated lead acid), one charger should work for all types except for gel cell. However, some of our gel cell chargers will work well with the other battery types.

Step 2: Determining Battery Size

We don’t mean physical size, but how many amp hours your battery stores. For example, a typical full-size auto battery is about 50 amp hours, so you would choose a 10 amp charger that would take about 6 hours to recharge it if the battery were completely dead. Another instance would be a marine deep cycle battery rated at 100 amp hours. It would take a 10 amp charger about 11 hours to recharge a dead battery to near 100% full charge. To calculate your total charge time for a battery, a good rule of thumb is to take the amp hour rating of the battery and divide by the charger rating (amps) and then add about 10% for the extra time to totally top off the battery.

Some folks wanting quick recharge should look for a charger with more amps, such as a golf cart charger. If you’re not in a hurry, you can select a smaller charger. The most important thing is to make sure you have enough charger power to do the job you require in the time you allocate.

Step 3: Choosing a Battery Charger Based on Desired Outcome

Some folks require a charger to keep their motorcycle, classic car, or aircraft battery charged during the offseason. In these cases, a simple low current charger will work fine. Others require a fast and powerful charger to quickly restore a trolling motor battery or a wheelchair battery set. Other types of chargers and the reasons you might need them:

MULTI VOLTAGE Input chargers for use when visiting a foreign country
Waterproof chargers for those times when you’re out in the elements
Chargers that double as power supplies for RV use
Multi-bank chargers for charging multiple batteries simultaneously

Hopefully, we’ve helped you figure out which is the best charger for your application. Use the link below to see our large selection of battery chargers and 12v/24v trickle chargers.

Raymond GodboutHi i just bought 2 battery at 6 volt 232 amp they are in serial, witch kind of charger a need its for my westfalia, thanks

TECHWe typically recommend an RV Converter as they allow you to charge while using the battery. For your size battery pack we would recommend the IOTA DLS-55 that can be paired with a Smart controller for your battery type (AGM, Lithium, or Flooded) or we have the DLS-55/IQ4 that has an integrated controller meant for flooded batteries.

Rocky JamesI have 2 viper 12v 800w? Batteries connected in parallel and then to a fuse box. What size charger do I need to charge these batteries.

BatteryStuff TechThose batteries appear to be 35AH-rated batteries. Two batteries in parallel would equal a 12v 70 AH battery. If you are looking for a maintenance charger for the batteries while not in use, we recommend something between the 6 to 12 Amp range, such as the Schauer CM12A. If the batteries will be in use when charging, then a demand-sensing charger is needed, and we recommend the IOTA DLS-15 with IQ-AGM Controller.

TomnIs it possible to charging a 12v 50 ah car battery with noco 1 ( 1 ah current. max 30 ah capacity) ? What will happen? It’s can’t reach a full charge or just take sum time?

TECHWhile it may be possible, it isn’t recommended. The manufacturer recommends the Genius1 for powersport batteries typically found in motorcycles and ATVs. If the battery were completely discharged at 1 amp an hour, it would take over two days to bring the battery to fully charged. By that time, the charger would have more than likely faulted out, not to mention the excessive wear and tear on the charger. We recommend the NOCO GENIUS5 for automotive batteries as it is properly sized and offers a greater life expectancy over their smaller chargers when maintaining automotive batteries.

AndrewI have 2 chargers first is charging at 1.25 AMP second at 4.5 AMP I am planing to charge and maintain my boat battery which should I use

TECHAndrew, without knowing the group size of the batteries, we have insufficient information to make a recommendation. I suggest getting the group size or AH rating and contacting our techs via email.

Richard StutzGreetings and thank you for taking our questions, So I, like many people, am trying to clean out and rejuvenate a big old truck battery which is about 160 some dollars at Walmart and up over 200 at some other car parts places. I have been looking at many videos and reading articles on how to clean out and rejuvenate these old automotive batteries and most of them say the same thing as far as using baking soda to clean out the battery and then mixing up a strong solution of Epson salt and distilled water to put back in the battery. Then they all say to charge it on a two amp trickle charger. But I have a four amp charger so do I need to go out and buy a two amp trickle charger or will my four amp charger work just fine? Thank you so much for considering and answering my question. Rick

TECHUnfortunately, we cannot make recommendations for these circumstances as these methods rarely work for long and, in the end, cause the battery to sulfate faster. The reason distilled water is recommended for batteries is to prevent minerals from being introduced into the batteries. As salt is a mineral, it will cause the battery to sulfate faster over time. The only form of desulfating batteries we trust in is using desufating chargers and/or chemicals that have been case-studied and proven to work.

James D FlorindiI have a 12 volt 8 Ah battery I will be using for my fishing sonar. I have an older sears 10/2/50 amp charger. Can I safely use this charger on the 2 amp setting with this battery?

BatteryStuff TechJames, some batteries can take an amp rating up to 25% of the battery packs AH rating if using a Smart charger. However, the best method to verify what your battery can take would be to simply look at the side of the battery. Most batteries are labeled with a max current or amp rating.

Red ChildressI am upgrading to (2) Group 31 AGM batteries for my 80lb Trolling motor. Would it be OK to use a 20A 2-bank Guest charger that is currently in my boat?

BatteryStuff TechIdeally, we recommend going with a 15 amp per bank charger which equates to a 30 amp charger for the larger group 31 batteries. While the smaller 10 amp per banks units can charge a group 31 they do tend to put some excessive wear and tear on the charger. In the end if you don’t mind the extra time then I would stick with the current charger till it goes out. If you do want a faster charge time then we would recommend the Dual Pro PS2 as it is made in the USA and tends to get the batteries to a fuller charge over the other brands.

Harry CookI want to get a fast Smart charger for my Jazzy wheelchair that has two 12 volt 35 amp deep cycle batteries. Can you recommend a good one. I know this may seem like it is from a simpleton, but I just want to be sure that I get the correct charger. I also cannot spend hundreds of dollars on one.

BatteryStuff TechHarry, we do carry a few mobility chargers that are of good quality and below a 100 as of today’s pricing. For a recommendation I would suggest contacting our tech department via the contact us page. They would be more than happy to assisting you further!

LukeGday I have a 100ah calcium deep cycle battery and a pc400 battery charger that charges up to 4amp. Will this still charge my battery up or would I need to upgrade to an 8 or 12amp charger? Cheers.

BatteryStuff TechIf you are cycling the battery from a discharged state to charge then a 4 amp charger would be too small as it would take 12 hours if the battery was 50% discharged. IF, however this is simply maintaining a fully charged battery, it would be acceptable assuming it is a Smart charger.

KymI am in the market for a 24v 50A multi stage battery charger as I am looking around I found one that I thought was good but it says it is only good for 40. 500Ah. Now I have a 24v 1000Ah battery bank. What is the difference?

BatteryStuff TechAs the article suggest the ideal amp rating for a battery charger is 10% of the battery packs AH rating. You will find that most manufactures will put limits on their chargers to not give false expectations. By putting a 50 Amp charger on such a large battery bank the charger will most likely fail prematurely due to being overworked. The only product that we carry that could maintain a large battery pack would be two PowerMax PM3-50-24 units put in parallel. With two of those charger/converter it would output 100 Amps, however you would have to have an AC source capable of handling them as they each draw 12 AC Amps.

David HardyI have a 24v trolling motor system and a 12v cranking system on my boat. How would I charge both systems with like a 2 or 3 bank 12v charger.

BatteryStuff TechTypically for a 24v trolling motor utilizing two 12v batteries, along with a 12v starting battery we would recommend a 3 bank marine charger. I would suggest looking at our 3-Bank marine chargers and if you have any questions you can always contact our tech department.

Dan DettmannI just bought a used boat which has electric trolling motors and a MAXX Ever Start 114 amp hours deep cycle battery. The guy was using a 750ml battery tender to charge it but I ran it hard Sunday on a trolling motor. have no idea what percentage of the battery I used was but couldn’t fish it Monday because the green light hadn’t come on yet. As it turns out. it took 30-36 hours to reach full charge (green light). Obviously not fast enough charging. What do I need to do a good job. Also. may be an old wives tale from the previous boat owner. but he told me I need to charge it real slow like that to get better performance out of the battery, better battery life, etc. He also said something about running the battery down all the way and then charging it. which may be another old wives tale and would be very inconvenient as I would be stuck out there on the lake somewhere with no power if I did that. Appreciate your opinions on the charger and proper way to use the battery. Thanks, Dan

BatteryStuff TechIdeal charging amperage for both the charger and the battery is about 10% of the battery’s Amp/Hr rating. With a larger battery such as yours we would recommend a marine 12v 10 amp charger such as the NOCO Genius 12v 10 Amp Marine On-Board Battery Charger, or a USA made Dual Pro 12v 10 Amp Sportsman Series On-Board Charger. Our preference would be the USA made charger as they are more durable, last longer, and get the batteries to a fuller charger with its DeltaVolt technology. Both these chargers are mountable chargers meant to be mounted in the boat with the battery, so they only come with ring connections to be mounted to the battery. If you don’t prefer a mounted battery charger I would recommend the NOCO Genius 10 6v 12v 10 Amp Battery Charger and Maintainer.

Ivan UriegasHello, I bought a 12v 22ah VRLA battery (to run a 12v 13a water pump), I also bought a Smart charger (a Motopower 12v 2a) to charge/maintain it. I connected the charger to the battery and after some time it started to make a bubbling boiling sound. Did it damage my battery? And, what charger should I use to charge/maintain this 12v 22ah VRLA battery?

BatteryStuff TechIvan, when fresh VRLA / AGM batteries are made there can be some residual electrolyte that hasn’t been abosrbed into the fiberglass matting. This can cause the battery to sound like it is bubbling and will disapate over time. In the end you just need to be sure the charger is meant for the battery type, and I would suggest keeping an eye on the battery the first few times you charge it to make sure it isn’t getting hot.

PaulI have a 2 amp 12 volt battery sealed lead acid can I use a charger that have 4 amps 12 volt auto shut off

BatteryStuff TechThat would be a little hot for that small of a battery. Generally we would recommend Universal 12v 500 mAh Lead Acid Battery Smart Charger UPG12, or somthing similar.

RzaI’m planning to purchase a 12v 35amp hour AGM battery for use with a cpap machine while camping. We have also selected a 400w continuous use/800w peak power inverter to use. I’m having a hard time knowing what type of charger to purchase, as I’m on a tight budget. I know you have higher quality chargers listed, which is great, but I don’t know what type of charger I can use at all. A lot of the reviews mention float chargers, which works for storage – but I need something that will ensure the machine is able to run at night, and can be charged via wall socket during the day. Would a 2/6amp, 6/12v manual charger with self-resetting circuit breaker and an automatic trickle charger after the battery is full work for this? For reference this is what the CPAP machine says under the electrical version of the manual, and this is where I get a little confused (though I have had others tell me they use this battery and inverter with their cpap just fine – but they use a 3 panel 45 watt solar charger which is unfortunately out of my price range.): AC power consumption (with 60w power supply) 100-240 VAC. 50/60 Hz, 2.1 A Ac Power consumption (with 80w power supply) 100-240 VAC. 50/60 Hz, 2.0 A DC Power consumption: 12 VDC. 6.67 A Any help or explanations are appreciated, as I am brand new to trying to figure this stuff out. 🙂

BatteryStuff TechWe get this question quite a bit, so don’t worry about being confused! The first thing you need to figure out is how your going to run a CPAP machine off a battery. Are you going to use the inverter? Using an inverter is not my first choice as they draw more out of the battery, than going straight off the battery. If you look at your 3rd power rating it tells you the CPAP Machine can run directly off a battery with a rating of 12VDC, which is a 12 volt battery, and it will pull 6.67 Amps an hour. Now you may think that is more amperage than using the inverter, which draws 100-240VAC @ 2.1 Amps. However, when you calculate that back to the battery it is pulling 23.18 Amps an hour! So going off the battery is a better choice! You will most likely have to contact the CPAP manufacturer for a 12v accessory meant to run the machine directly off the battery, but it is far more efficient. Next, either way your 35 AH rated battery would not work, as you don’t want to discharge your battery more than 50%. My suggestion would be to use two calculators to first select your correct battery. First if your going to use the inverter you will need the Calculator | DC to AC amperage conversion run through an Inverter to obtain your DC Amp Draw. Then plug the DC amp draw into the Calculator | Sizing a 12 Volt Battery to a Load to figure out what AH rated battery you need based off how many hours you plan to sleep. And, finally in order to answer your question about charging… You can select a Smart charger that has an amp rating of up to 25% of the batteries AH rating. So if you end up with a 100AH rated battery you can use a 25 Amp Charger. Charging any faster could hurt the battery, and we only recommend Smart chargers for charging.

TimHi there. I’m doing a summer project and was wondering about deep cycle batteries. I understand that when connecting the same batteries in parallel, it will have the same voltage but will double up in the Ah. However, let’s say I am charging the battery in parallel. Let’s assume that the rating max charging current for a battery is 5 Amps and I have an 8 Amp charger. Would connecting the battery in parallel be able to handle 8 Amp charger? (Meaning that the rating max charge current will be 10 amps instead of 5 amps?? Or would the max rating current to charge is still 5 amps and can not handle it. I was wondering about this because wouldn’t that mean the battery will charge slower if it only takes in 5 amps? I guess it might be better for the battery life but was wondering if it could handle it) Thanks for your help.

BatteryStuff TechPlease keep in mind we only recommend interconnecting batteries that are of the same age, capacity, chemistry, and if you plan to employ them as a battery pack. We however do not recommend connecting batteries together that you are not going to employ as a battery pack. The answer to your questions is yes, assuming these are lead acid batteries. If a single battery has a max amp rating of 5 amps, and you put that battery in parallel to increase the amp/hr, then the max rate is thereby increased, so it would now be 10 amps. The reason this works is the charge is spread out among both batteries, and not just one.

LRFI have a AGM battery that was originally used on a solar sysytem. I have a Schumacher charger that has a setting for this type battery. The other day I went to charge it and it was very low 9% according to the charger. It charged fairly quickly to about 62% then plateaued off. I noticed that the wires next to the clamps got very hot. Any thoughts? My goal is to take this battery with me camping and use it with my CPAP machine. I dont have it in front of me but its 12 Volt. About the size of a large car battery. Thanks

BatteryStuff TechCharging cables heating up could be the result of a couple of factors. Heat is a sign of resistance, which means the current coming from the charger isn’t being accepted somewhere along the line. If the battery is also heating up that could elude to a bad battery not being able to accept the charge, and it might be time to replace the battery. If the battery is not heating up, but the wire at the connection point is, i would try cleaning the terminals and ensuring you have a good connection.

RichardAn excellent and very informative article, thank you! I have a newer sealed, maintenance free, mid-range (in terms of quality) standard AGM 12v deep-cycle Marine/RV battery 930 marine cranking amps, 145 minutes reserve capacity, 75 amp-hours. This is my first experience with AGM batteries of any sort. My question: Is the electrolyte, absorbed into the glass matting, in these AGM batteries subject to stratification in the same way that the electrolyte in a flooded wet battery is? Reason I ask: I use a Smart charger that incorporates 8 steps in the charging/maintenance cycle. The 1st step is an automatic desulfation step. The 6th step is an OPTIONAL step that can be used occasionally to “recondition” or destratify the electrolyte in flooded wet batteries. This is accomplished by the application of 15.8v, for short periods of time depending on the voltage of the battery, to induce out-gassing and turbulence due to the rising bubbles. Destratification occurs when the turbulence causes the electrolyte to be mixed and rendering the SG uniform throughout the depth of the cell. My obvious next question: Will it ever be necessary, or even safe, to use this optional 6th “reconditioning” step when charging/maintaining this mid-range, deep-cycle AGM battery?

BatteryStuff Techspan AGM Batteries have the electrolyte absorbed into the fiberglass matting so stratification is not a concern with these batteries, such in wet cells where the acid can separate from the water. The other main reason to equalize a battery is to cause the sulfation to dissolve back into the electroylte, however not all AGM battery manufacturers recommend this processes, as some AGM batteries are not meant to withstand this type of charge. The process of equalizing a battery causes the battery to heat up and gas. While the gassing can work itself out of the battery vents, some manufacturers do not have large inner cell connectors to withstand that type of charge. Lifeline Battery is one of the manufacturers we carry that does promote equalizing their batteries. In the end you need to contact the manufacturer of your battery to see what they recommend.

JohnI have 6 2v 300Ahr agm batteries hookup for 12 v, how many 250 watt solar panel will I need to charger my battery with a MPPT solar controller?

BatteryStuff TechIt depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If your just looking to maintain a fully charged battery pack with no draw coming off the batteries I would generally recommend a panel similar to our Solarland 12v 30 Watt Panel for your capacity. Going any smaller just doesn’t work as well when the batteries get older, and start to discharge at a higher rate. This ensures that a good charge is going to the battery pack daily, and it can get the batteries top off fairly quickly if your have a long stretch of bad weather. If your trying to design a system to supplement energy coming off the batteries then I suggest reading our article Solar Systems the Right Way. This article will get you started in the right direction.

Nick BointonWe have a catering trailer which has a bank of 6 × 120amp/hr 12v batteries powering an 4000w inverter to run fridges, microwaves etc. The normal consumption is probably only 600w. We have a Honda 1000EUi generator which is1000w rated 900w. We run this to charge the batteries. We need a regulated charger of the maximum we can run from this generator, 40amp? What is the maximum we could run? Great site by the way, we have nothing similar in the UK which is where w are based, but the electrical info is international!

BatteryStuff TechIt will depend on the efficiency rating of the charger/converter power-supply you intend to use. Once you find a brand that you intend to use look to their AC Input ratings. The AC voltage x AC Amperage = The Wattage. The Wattage rating has to be below your continuous run rating of your generator. I hope that helps!

RichardI have an UB121000 12V 100AH – Absorbant Glass Mat battery and I’m wondering if you can recommend me a good charger for it please? I’m using the battery for a trolling motor. Thanks for your time!

BatteryStuff TechI would recommend a 12v 10 Amp charger for that battery. If you look into our 12 Volt Smart Battery Chargers: 5 to 10 Amps Section. You will find mountable, and portable chargers depending on your need. If you require further information feel free to contact our Tech Department.

TrevorHello, I was hoping you could advise on battery charging for a large electric boat project. The battery pack consists of twelve Enersys SBS. EON.190F AGM batteries wired in series for three banks of 48 volts. Each battery bank providing 4×190Ah. I’ve heavy load relays that I may use to wire the three banks in temporary parallel or they could be hard wired together for the 12×190Ah power pack. These batteries require a fast charge cell voltage of 2.40V for frequent heavy discharge. It’s a monster battery pack I know but I’m hoping to achieve recharge in a day or less.

BatteryStuff TechIt appears you have 48v 570 AH rated battery pack. My highest charger is an Interacter 48v 20 Amp Industrial Commercial Series Charger ICS4820, which is a work horse, but can only maintain battery packs up to 400 AH. I’m sorry but I don’t believe we have a charger for you. Ideal charging is going to be at about 10% of your capacity so roughly around the 55-60 Amp range for your application.

Herb KornVery informative. I have a class B motorhome with 4 80 amp hr, AGM batteries, a 2000 watt inverter/charger and a 280 amp high output alternator. The regulator in the alt. is running hot…15.2 volts into the batteries when first charging and I was considering an external 3 stage regulator. Advice? What is the max. volts that the AGM batteries should be charged at? Thanks….Herb

BatteryStuff TechI would recommend a converter/charger/power-supply around 45-55 amps, make sure it is at least a 3 stage Smart charger. A typical AGM battery should be charger 14.6-14.7 volts, however some can take a hotter charge, but you would have to check with the battery manufacturer.

ArtI liked the article, I just purchased a Evolution 1 Tent trailer and the prior owner installed 2 6v batteries for power and also installed LED lights. The batteries are connected in series to produce 12v. What typ of charger should I use to charge and maintain the batteries when not in use. Thanks Art

BatteryStuff TechArt we recommend picking a charger that has an amp rating that is 10% of the total amp/hr. If you would like help picking on out please contact our Tech Department.

Paul MulvennaExcellent article. Just wanted to make sure I’m right in thinking I can’t have too high a current from a charger for a battery so long as I don’t leave it charging too long? I bought my son a Peg Perego 12V John Deere Gator ride on for his birthday which comes with a 12V 12AH sealed lead acid battery. The supplied charger is only rated 0.5A so takes an overnight period to charge the battery each time it runs down (leading to an unhappy boy). If I was to buy a higher powered 12V charger (e.g. 8A) I could safely charge the same battery in about 100 minutes based on your formula – is that correct? Many thanks.

BatteryStuff TechThe highest amp rated charger for your application would be a 3 amp charger, as you don’t want to exceed 25% of the amp/hr.

EdHelp! No sun for four days and our batteries have dipped below 30%. We live off-grid with a PV array as our only charger. Time to get a genset and charger to keep the batteries healthy. The 12v batteries have a c20 capacity of 546ah. What do you recommend we buy? Thanks in advance, Ed

BatteryStuff TechFor charging off a generator we recommend that you pick a charger that does not have an amp rating that exceeds 25% of your total amp/hr. A charger that is more than 25% of your amp/hr could damage the batteries unless they are specifically designed for high amp charging, such as the Lifeline brand.

SathI’m using solar and have nickel iron batteries at 300ah and 48v. How high should the charge cycle, bulk, absorb and float cycles be. My charge is now at 63.1 volts, bulk is 57.0, absorb is 60.5 and float is 55.1. Is that in the right range?

BatteryStuff TechIf you have a charger that you can set the voltage depending on the stage, I would suggest talking to the manufacturer of the batteries, so you can charge them based off their recommendation. We sell Smart chargers that are already pre-configured based off their history of the manufacturers experience. IOTA has theirs set to Output Voltage Charging 59.04 V, Bulk Absorption Voltage 56.64 V, and Float Voltage 52.24 V. Every manufacturer is a little different, which is why I would recommend talking to the battery manufacturer.

SteveHi, I have a new HP8204B (high power) 24vdc 5A charger, I am using it to charge my 2 × 12v numax SLG63 gel cell batteries. The light is supposed to turn green when the batteries are fully charged but I have to keep stopping as the batteries are bubbleing and getting hot ? is this ok ? I am not sure if the charger is a 3 stage or not ? some adverts say it is. some just say 24v ? Thankyou Steve

TECHWe recommend contacting the manufacturer regarding your charger. Your battery should not be hot to the touch, so the charger could be malfunctioning, or the charger is attempting to charger a battery that cannot accept a full charger and is not timing out.

AdminDue to the fact that we don’t have all the information for your system we would need you to contact us at tech@batterystuff.com so that we can ask the appropriate questions, to get you the answer that you may need.

Dave Borthi my camper currently runs 2 100ah agm batteries and 1 110ah flooded battery.i have just installed a 100w solar pannel and 10a regultor how should i set the regulator ….for flooded or agm ? my plan is to swap the flooded for agm when funds allow

DebbieI just purchased two AGM Optima Blue Top batteries (D27M) to use as house batteries on my houseboat (I live aboard). The Optima Blue Top batteries are replacing two wet cell batteries. I have been told I can’t use my current charger (Charles 9000 Series) with the Optima batteries. So now it looks like I need to buy and install a new battery charger. Do you agree? Or can a Charles 9000 Series also charge AGM batteries? My current charger has three “banks”. One for the house batteries (in series), one for the port engine, and one for the stbd engine. I also have a battery for the generator which is not on a charger. If I’m buying a new charger, I’d like to get one with four banks to cover all the batteries. The engine and generator starting batteries are all wet cell. Can you recommend some choices for a battery charger. From the SPEC Sheet for the Optima Batteries (http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/shop/bluetop/optima-batteries-8027-127-d27m-27-bluetop-marine-deep-cycle-starting/), recommended charging info is: Recommended Charging Information Alternator: 13.65 to 15.0 volts Battery Charger: 13.8 to 15.0 volts; 10 amps maximum; 6-12 hours approximate Float Charge: 13.2 to 13.8 volts; 1 amp maximum; (indefinite time at lower voltages) Rapid Recharge (Constant voltage charger): Maximum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp. Cyclic or Series String Applications:: 14.7 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 3 amp constant current for 1 hour. All limits must be strictly adhered to. Performance Data Cold Cranking Amps: 800 Cranking Amps: 1000 Nominal Voltage: 12 volts Open Circuit Voltage (fully charged): 13.1 volts Internal Resistance (fully charged): 0.0025 ohms Capacity: 66 Ah (C/20) Reserve Capacity: BCI : 140 minutes (25 amp discharge, 80°F (26.7°C), to 10.5 volts cut-off)

SERGIODear Tech I am experimenting with a machine that runs on 24v. I want to replace the power supplies for a battery pack. I need about 100 Ah, so Im thinking 2 12v 120 Ah connected in series. My question is: Will a 24V/13A charger do the job on recharging my setup? I don’t have that much experience with batteries. I think it will, but rather ask the expert.

Scott IvinsI have a Skeeter zx225 boat, 225 Yammy (03)and I run 2 hummingbird 997sihd electronics. I also have a minnkota 36V 101 TM on the bow. Previous electronics were older lowrance units and TM was a 24v system. I have recently upgraded my batteries to sears DH premiums 31m (AH 20/hr rate-100/capacity AH 10hr/rate-92; CCA.1150; RC-205. Charger is a noco genius 4 bank (40 amp total). Previous set up had 2 positive wires (6g i think) coming from bow and connected to battery 1 and the other to battery 2 …why? I took the one off and just use the main cable on battery 3 and the neg on battery 1 and /- jumper between batteries 1/2/3. Does jumper have to be same size as main power wire? what guage do you recommned for jumpers? Does my system seem right…and what is the best way to test voltage output?

KatieFor a given AGM battery type, find the voltage and constant current for constant voltage and constant current mode of any given volts and amp-hours.

TomI have a c-pap machine that I use when dry camping. It is 5 amps, 600 watts. I need a battery that will give me 8 hours of power. Do you have any suggestions? Also, looking for right size inverter to handle the task along with good battery charger. Thanks for your help

Jeremy FearFirst, because this runs off of 120VAC, you would need an inverter. That will add 15% to the consumed wattage by the C-pap machine, for a total of 690 watts/hour. If you are running that for 8 hours, then your total wattage used will be 5,520 watts. In order to run that off of battery power you would need 883 AH at 12 Volts, ran through a 1000 watt inverter.

Rick WThis seems excessive. Since the Law of the Conservation of Energy applies, then the input power (Wac) must be equal to the output power (Wdc), then since the input voltage in this case is 120Vac and output voltage is 12Vdc, the ratio is 10:1, which means that the current (Amps) must be in inverse proportion to maintain the equal power. In this case, the input current is 5Aac, so the output current must be 50Adc. Since the inverter apparently adds 15% to the power consumption, then the output current will then be 57.5Adc. Since the OP wants it to last for 8 hours, then it seems that the AH rating of the battery would only need to be 460AH (57.5Adc8H), or a Reserve Capacity (RC) rating of 1104 minutes (8hr60mins/hr=480mins@25A2.3 [since the battery has to supply 57.5 A instead of 25A]). We would require more information about your situation. Please contact one of our techs at tech@batterystuff.com

Clever SurvivalistNice article because of simplicity. It is a great starting point for people that havent done alot of research, but for me, I had most of this info already. thanks for the article.

BarneyThank you for such an informative site. I‘m trying to ascertain the best and best quality Smart charger to buy from you for my motorcycle but have wondered if I need to worry about the fact that I live in a rural area with a lot of power surges. Is there any need to put a power bar/surge protector between the wall plug and the new Smart charger? (and/or should this be done to protect the bike‘s expensive ECU ie: elctronic control unit?) Thank you.

AudreyHello! Your site is a fantastic resource! I‘m trying to size a multi-bank battery charger for a boat. It will float charge 2 lead acid starting batteries, one generator starting battery, and a house bank consisting of (6) 220AH 6V golf cart batteries connected series-parallel (The house system is 110-120VAC). I have a 5000W inverter and a 7500W gas-powered Kohler generator to produce AC when anchored/underway. The load on the house bank batteries will be no more than 20a (DC), but will vary over my intended use time of 12-16 hours between charging opportunities. Im looking for a fast charge time, because occasionally the charge source will be the gas generator, and the less that runs, the better. I suspect my inverter is sized with a greater capacity than my battery bank can safely support. But it‘s what I have. I would also love to be able to manually select the charging source for the house bank to switch between the engines’ alternators or a solar array in addition to the generator. Everything is 12V. Two questions: Do you see any holes in my plan, and for the charger is my best option to get as many amps as I can afford? Thanks in advance!

E-astronomerThank you for this great information! After studying many articles and web sites, including those specifically from authors writing about my own area of interest in batteries, I believe I found most of my answers (or at least solid confirmations and clarifications) here. But I still have a couple of questions because some of those other writings contradict each other and your material in a couple of ways. In addition, your information doesn‘t really address low amperage usage over cycles that are several hours long. What I am hoping to do is use a ready-made portable power pack to run a telescope and hiker‘s GPS unit from a 12VDC cigarette-lighter style socket, a couple of USB powered items, and finally a laptop and possibly a little more from AC sockets provided on the same unit. Expected consumption would be as follows: Telescope (12VDC) ~0.7 amps for 5-12 hrs/night GPS unit (12VDC – not sure, but probably very low draw and only for 5-10 min no more than 2x/night) Laptop (110VAC) ~2.0 amps for 3-8 hrs/night Cell phone ( USB if available on power unit, AC adapter if not ~200mA not every cycle, but when needed ~2 hr recharge) Tablet computer (AC adapter probably not used every time – 2000mA for 3-5 hrs when used) Several places in your material and others I‘ve read, the statement is made that one should get the highest Ah rating they can. I think these materials have been about higher and possibly shorter-term draw in all cases, but I‘m not sure. Other material says, for the type of low power/long usage above, one should use something with an Ah rating of only about twice what they would probably use in one session on average, so as not to draw the battery down too much in one night, but enough of the total so the cycling is deep enough to preserve battery life by the proper amount of cycling (or something like that ;-). Still other places, I‘ve read that it is better to draw down the battery less (5-10% of capacity) to increase the lifespan of the battery. All of this has me confused. I am trying to figure out two last things before I can figure out what I need: 1.) Should I limit my choice of Ah rating to a lower number (twice my need per cycle) for my kind of usage? 2.) This may be outside your subject matter expertise, or depend on specific unit features, but I also need to know if built-in inverters draw power when nothing is plugged into them. I haven‘t been able to find anything on that question.

BatteryStuff TechThe truth is, the less you draw down on the battery, the more cycles the battery will provide. There is no golden rule. If you only use 10% capacity at a time, then I say you have spent more money on battery power than you‘re utilizing. If you draw 90% at a time, then have too little battery power and you will find yourself replacing it very prematurely. 50% depth of discharge per cycle is our recommendation because it‘s the most cost effective solution. Having any sort of connection (even unplugged) to a battery will technically cause a very minimal discharge, but it is so insignificant, that I wouldn‘t worry about it if I were you.

SteveI am installing a backup sump pump using a deep cycle marine battery with inverter. I have a 1.5amp trickle charger to maintain battery charge. We are not anticipating this pump to be used very often. Is a 1.5amp trickle charger large enough to maintain charge?

BatteryStuff TechFor trickle charging, I recommend using 3% of your battery capacity as the charge rate for maintenance. Therefore, if you are using a 1.5 amp charger, I think that will be okay as long as your current battery is no more than 50 Amp Hours.

Rickmy girlfriend has a 2000 custon 1200 harley,she has a pigtail charger we cant find the plug in sorce for charging the battery on her bike ?

BatteryStuff TechMany battery chargers, such as Battery Tender, Pulse Tech, and Battery MIND er use the 2 prong SAE type connector, which is popular for pig-tail style installations.

MikeLove your site and your service. One question I have… I just purchased a Motocross YTZ14S from you folks for my Honda VFR800. I believe that the battery I received was an AGM. but I‘m not sure. Its not listed anywhere on the battery itself, nor is it on the invoice. I‘m using a Noco G1100 to keep it charged. As I‘m sure you know, The G1100 can run in Normal mode, or Cold/AGM mode. Will it harm it to use the Normal mode for charging or do I have to use the AGM mode? The manual for the charger says that if your unsure of the battery makeup, use the Normal mode. What does the charger do differently in AGM mode? Thanks for any light you can shed on this.

BatteryStuff TechThe YTZ14S from Motocross is an AGM battery. However, it is not on the same level as high performance AGM batteries, such as Odyssey or Optima. These AGM batteries actually recommend charging at a higher voltage than what is considered normal, or safe for the other battery types. However, because the Motocross is a standard AGM battery, I recommend using the Normal Mode.

DavidYou reference an Odyssey AGM battery having higher charging voltages. What would you recommend for a trickle charger for the PC 680 Odyssey battery?

BatteryStuff TechI recommend the Battery MIND er 12 Volt 2 Amp High Voltage AGM Only Charger BM2012- AGM. The BatteryMINDer 2012- AGM is a SmarTECHnology™ microprocessor controlled charger/maintainer/desulfator for Optima, Odyssey, Polaris, Yuasa Other High Performance Specialty 12 Volt Sealed AGM Lead-Acid Batteries.

BobVery Informative page….I have a question regarding charge/absorption on a 24 volt battery bank. What is the highest voltage that should be used to charge a 230 AH/24 volt bank. I have been told a 48 volt charger can be used safely but sounds a bit suspecious to me….

BatteryStuff Tech48 volts will not charge a 24 volt system ‘faster’. It will cause harm. My suggestion is that ~29.6 volts is the highest voltage rate I recommend for a 24 volt system. Now, amps is a completely other story. I advise that 25% of your capacity should be the max charge rate you should use. We recommend 10% unless you need the quickest charge time.

GokartfreakGreat article! could you please help me out. i am making a go kart, planning to connect 4 12v 80Ah VRLA batteries in series. what kind of charger should i use?

BatteryStuff TechI recommend a 48 volt charger, of course. Anywhere from 4 – 16 amps of charge rate should be fine. 8 amps would be my recommendation. Just make sure the charger is compatible with VRLA batteries ( AGM if they are sealed batteries).

GokartfreakI was just wondering – theoretically would using 2 24v chargers or 4 12v chargers simaltaneously be better than a single 48v charger(besides the cost)?

BatteryStuff TechIf your 48 volt system is used as a single unit, it‘s best to charge it altogether the same way. However, you can charge the batteries independently using multi-bank chargers, or separate chargers. Just make sure your connects are correct. You can‘t stack two chargers on a single battery.

Gokartfreaki just read somewhere and was confused if the charger is to be connected to the battery directly or does the controller have any role to play in the charging process?

BatteryStuff TechControllers are recommended for solar chargers. But standard AC plug-in chargers are micro processor controlled, there is no need for any additional controlling. Hookup directly to the battery is the best method of charging.

BatteryStuff TechPretty much any of our motorcycle chargers will work. Battery Tender is the most popular brand, but I personally recommend Pulse Tech. Please take a look at our 12 volt battery chargers. Anything 4 amps and under will work for you.

RockyI recently purchased a Schumacher SSC.1000a Smart charger for my new AGM marine battery. I have monitored the charging cycle and see no evidence of a 3 step process whereby the regulated voltage is dropped back as the battery approaches full charge. I have monitored this voltage with my digital meter and the digital voltage reading on the charger itself and have noticed the regulated voltage increases more as the battery approaches full charge. On the 10 amp rate the regulated voltage is just over 16 volts near full charge. And on the 6 amp rate the regulated voltage is just under 16 volts near full charge. This happens the same on the standard setting with a lead acid battery. Is my charger working properly? Or is it not really a Smart charger?

BatteryStuff Tech16 volts sounds like it‘s too high, even for high performance AGM batteries. The charger is suppose to be automatic, but it may be defective.

BanditCan I use a standard (1-stage) charger, set on 2amps to charge my new AGM 12AH motorcyle battery for initial use until I get a Smart charger? Also, is an AGM battery also a VRLA battery? The box the battery came in called it AGM but the instructions that came w/battery call it a VRLA. It has the multi-bottles of acid that you put in and seal. I appreciate any info.

BatteryStuff TechYou may use a 1 stage charger, but watch it carefully to you don‘t over charge your new battery. If your AGM battery came with an acid pack, it requires activation. But once the cells are sealed with the cap strip, there is no need to ever open it up again. Valve Regulated Lead Acid is often associated with AGM batteries.

PatrickMy battery charger (HP-1202B 24V2A) for my Phantom wheel chair does not work any more (I think it overheated). HP no longer makes this battery charger, so I ordered one from another supplier, but it did not work (though it had the above specifications). From where can I obtain one, and how do I know it will work. Thanks, Patrick

BatteryStuff TechWe do not sell HP chargers. I do not know where you can find one. What are the types of batteries your wheelchair uses? Lithium, NiCD, Sealed Lead Acid?

MohanCool article, saved me a lot of time. But I‘m not sure if I understood everything right, so I‘ll need some guidance. I have a electric van, batteries: 18 in series per row, 3 of those rows in parallel, mounting to 54 batteries. They are AGM 12v 100Ah. What type of charger and how many of them do I need?

BatteryStuff TechWhat is your total system voltage? 72 volts? Then I recommend a 72 volt charger for the entire thing configuration. With 300 AH, I recommend a 30 Amp charger. However, the closest we carry is an Eagle 72v 12 amp charger.

Don EddyI live full time in a 1977 GMC motorhome. Three batteries/bank: 1 red top, 1 yellow top, and 2 6v golf cart. Red for the engine; yellow for the 6K genset (Onan); golf carts for the house. Solenoids separate all three until the ignition is on. Converter, 40 amp, has never fully charged the three units with the ignition on; nor even the house and genset batteries with the ignition off. Now the converter is not operating. I need a converter/charger that will do the job through perhaps a change in wiring?

Allen DorakI just purchased a new V Star Custom 650. The manual says it has a Valve Regulated Lead Acid Battery. It says not to use a Conventional Battery Charger. I have a Yuasa 1.5 Amp 5 Stage Battery Charger. It says to use it on conventional batteries and maintenance-free AGM batteries. What do I use for this bike. ? Now I have to buy another charger? Thank you very much for your help.

BatteryStuff TechYour Yuasa Smart charger should be just fine for your VRLA battery. VRLA batteries are technically wet batteries, but they are sealed with an internal drip system to prevent the water from evaporating and leaving the cells. The electrolyte is not absorbed in a glass matte like an AGM.

MosesI lost the charger P/N 700150 for a Craftsman cordless hedge trimmer 24 VDC model 240.74802 I am looking for a replacement charger. Thanks

BatteryStuff TechThat part number isn‘t one that we carry. Sorry. Is the charger for a NiCD battery? Lead Acid? Lithium?

KennethHave you located a place that does carry this charger, as I have a enew trimmer, Model number 240.74802, need a charger.

KevinHello. I have a basic folding camper. The units were never factory fitted with electrics let alone a charging system. Which may well be a good thing as the most popular UK charging units fitted to caravans, campers and trailer tents only charges at 13.6V. So not only does it take an age to charge it never fully charges. My choice previously has just been to use a “dumb” charger. You sell intelligent chargers, now until recently I‘d never seen intelligent chargers with high single digit AH rates let alone double digit AH rates. Now I may well use a low rated intelligent charger to keep my battery conditioned when at home but what about on site? If I‘m on an EHU (Electric Hook Up not sure American term) I‘m not charging and running the battery in separate cycles. A whole range appliances may be plugged in whilst charging the battery. Does the use of appliances confuse the charger? How does it asses the battery if at the same time resistive loads, inductive loads or both are being taken out. The batteries used tend to be 80AH or 100AH “pseudo” leisure batteries. I say pseudo leisure batteries because there is some debate in the UK on how much thicker the plates are on these starter sized batteries as against the full thickness in 2V cells. Simple lead acid batteries or glass mat are generally used. The demands light (ish) lighting, audio, limited TV, water pump. To be honest as demand is low and temp reasonable battery life is quite good. a case of being curious how intelligent chargers work if you‘re taking load at the same time? Thanks In Anticipation.

BatteryStuff TechWith Smart chargers, if they are on and charging and they ‘sense’ a load applied to the batteries, they will automatically attempt to supply the load so the batteries will not be discharged. Most chargers are not rated to handle a full load and they can burn out. However, we have chargers that are also power supplies (converters). Iota, Power Max, and Samlex are the brands of chargers that we carry with this capability. They can charge the batteries and at the same time supply a load to your applications up to the rated charge rate of the charger (in amps). For instance, a 12 volt 30 amp charger can supply a load up to 30 amps. If the load is higher, at that point the batteries will be used for the remainder.

GordonI currently have a 24V set-up in my bass boat for the trolling motor. I upgraded to Optima Blue top batteries a few months ago. I installed a new 3-bank, 10amp DualPro charger the same day I installed the new batteries. I fully charged the batteries before using the boat. About two weeks later we fished a 3-day tournament and promptly wore out two new, fully charged Optima batteries in 7-8 hours of fishing each day. Yes, I charged them all night before the first fishing day. My partner lays on the trolling motor well more than I do: however, killing the batteries wasn‘t really the issue. Well, other than listening to him gripe about it and how HIS Skeeter‘s 36V TM system lasts all day and THEN SOME. Anyway – I plugged in between 4pm-6pm on day #1 day (at our lodging on normal electricity) to charge the batteries. By 5am THE NEXT MORNING …the batteries were STILL NOT FULLY CHARGED. Same thing happened on morning #2 and #3. The starting battery was was obviously fully charged each day; however, depending on the TM battery, one may have been about 90% charged; the other in it‘s final stage (like 98%). The next day one TM battery was like 80% and the other 90%…after 12 hours on the juice. Brand new batteries on a brand new charger. I don‘t get it!! Optima “recommends” using 10A chargers on their blue top batteries (if not all their batteries). I‘m considering moving to a 36V trolling motor. Here‘s my question. I‘m going to have to upgrade to a 4-bank charger to do this. I don‘t want to trash two Optima batteries that I just bought. I also don‘t want to wait 12-hours to have fully charged batteries. The charger I want to go to chargers at 30A, and I don‘t think it has a regulator (Protournament 300 Quad). That said, will 30A charger HURT the Optima batteries? 10A is going to take 10-12 hours to recharge a depleted trolling motor battery…no biggie for non-tournament fishing…but when you need the boat ready to go 12 hours after you get out of it…12 hours to charge two 12V batteries ain‘t cutting it. Had I known it was going to take 12-hours to get a full charge I wouldn‘t have bought the Optima batteries. To hear my partner tell it, his Odyessy batteries are FAR SUPERIOR to Optima anyway.

BatteryStuff TechWhat are the AH (Amp Hours) ratings on the Optima batteries? This will determine what I recommend as far as good charge rate goes. 10%-35% of the battery capacity is safe range to charge with. Also, what is the draw amount of the trolling motor? Maybe your batteries don‘t have the capacity to handle the motor for as long as you thought. At least, that‘s one possibility. Is your current 10 amp Dual Pro charger 10 amps per bank? Or 10 amps total of all three banks?

RonnieI have a question. I have a 15 foot bass boat,first boat ever and do not know a lot about the difference in batteries and all I know is it looks like a sealed car battery. I do not have any idea which charger I should get ,would sure like to know so I get the right one

BatteryStuff TechIs there any information on the battery at all? If so, please provide it and I can help determine what you need.

Brendan KielyI can recommend the La Crosse Technology BC-700 charger. This is a pretty sophisticated battery charger. I‘ve always just had simple ones but this one does far more. I‘m not even sure I understand all the functions and I‘m fairly techno-geeky. info: http://best-gear.org/la-crosse-technology-bc-700-alpha-power-battery-charger/

BatteryStuff TechYes, it looks like a very nice NiMH and NiCD battery charger. Thanks for sharing.

ARTHUR SIMONspan FAILS TO PROVIDE CRITICAL INFO ON AGM OVERCHARGING VIA A ‘ Smart CHARGER ’ WHICH MAY FEATURE A “ VOLTAGE RAMP.UP” PERIODICALLY [15-16 VOLTS ] TO REDUCE ACCUMULATION OF SULFITES ON PLATES …HIGH VOLTAGE CREATES HEAT AND INDUCES WATER EVAPORATION …CAN‘T ADD WATER TO AGMS …OR GELS. THE ‘ RAMP.UP’ MODE MUST BE DISABLED.

BatteryStuff TechNot every Smart charger will have the “voltage ramp up”. Those that do, such as the Soneil or Noco genius, the voltage spike is the first thing it does, to quickly remove fresh sulfation. This high voltage to a discharged battery will not overcharge it. Once the battery is full, it will keep and miantain it. The voltage will not spike to 15 or 16 volts when the battery should be kept at 13.2. Other chargers, such as Pulse Tech or Battery MIND er removes sulfation with high frequency pulses, not voltage pulses. This is safe, harmless, and effective in restoring battery life when used regularly.

MikeExcellent advice removal of some of the mystery of how to pick the proper charger, and terms used. Thx, Mike

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery

LiTime (formerly known as Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate LiFePO4 battery is a deep cycle battery intended for marine, light industrial, automotive, off-the-grid, and other similar applications.

Thanks to its ultra-light and compact design, the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery is one of the most popular batteries for use as a trolling motor battery, inverter battery, solar battery, RV battery, and similar. But, like any other LiFePO4 battery, it has to be recharged using dedicated 12V lithium battery chargers or chargers with dedicated 12V lithium battery charging mode.

Updated: February 9, 2023.

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate LiFePO4 Features and Specifications

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 deep cycle battery features physical dimensions of (L x W x H) 13 x 6.82 x 8.48 inches (~33 x 17.3 x 21.5 cm) and belongs to the BCI Group 31.

Note: battery height with its M8 battery terminals is 9.3 inches (~23.6 cm).

The battery is much lighter than the typical group 31 battery. it weighs just 24.25 pounds (~11 kg) and ensures great weight savings when lead-acid deep cycle batteries are replaced with the battery pack based on this or similar but larger Ampere Time batteries.

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah lithium battery is based on four 3.2V prismatic LiFePO4 cells, monitored and controlled by the built-in Battery Management System (BMS), which protects the battery from overcharge, over-discharge, over-current, and short circuit.

The nominal voltage of the battery is 12.8V, with a maximum charging voltage of 14.6V and a minimum voltage of ~10V.

Note: when the discharge current is kept at ~0.1C (~10 Amps), the output voltage is at least 12.8V for ~95% of the discharge time, leading to excellent energy efficiency. Even when the discharge current is increased to 1.0C, energy efficiency is much better than the energy efficiency of similar lead-acid batteries.

The charging temperature range is between 0°C and 50°C while discharging temperature range is between.20°C and 60°C.

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah lithium battery supports 4000 charging/discharging cycles. the number of charging and discharging cycles also depends on the battery use, age, average temperature, and similar.

The expected lifetime of the battery is up to 10 years, while the battery itself comes with a very nice 5-year limited warranty.

The maximum continuous discharging current is 100 Amps, with 280 Amps being allowed for 5 seconds. Although such currents are enough even for starting smaller internal combustion engines, such use is not recommended. this is a very finely tuned deep-cycle battery and, as such, should be used.

The maximum continuous charging current is 100 Amps, allowing the user to recharge the battery quickly.

Personally, to prolong the battery life, the maximum charging current should be kept in the 20-30 Amps range. this prolongs the charging time but also decreases the load on the battery.

The built-in BMS also allows the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah lithium battery to be connected in parallel and series. up to 4 batteries may be connected in series (voltage up to 48V. actually up to 51.2V), and up to 4 batteries may be connected in parallel (capacity up to 400Ah).

Note: when connecting the batteries in series and/or parallel, always use exactly the same battery model from the same manufacturer, preferably from the same batch in order to avoid any imbalances and other issues with a newly formed battery pack.

How to Charge the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery

As said before, the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah lithium battery supports a maximum charging current of 100 Amps. But, to prolong the battery lifetime, a charging current in 20-50 Amps may be used.

LiTime (Ampere Time) offers a dedicated 12V 20Amps lithium battery charger, optimized for charging deep cycle 12V LiFePO4 batteries.

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 20Ah LiFePO4 battery charger features an input voltage of 100-240 volts and is a dedicated lithium battery charger. it can’t be used to charge lead-acid batteries.

It features a Constant Current/Constant Voltage (CC/CV) charging algorithm with a maximum charging voltage of 14.6V (±0.2V) and several safety features to protect the battery and the charger itself, including over-temperature protection, reverse polarity protection, over-voltage protection, and short-circuit protection.

When charging 12V 100Ah lithium battery, for example, from 80% DoD to 20% DoD, this battery charger requires some 3-3.5h. When the battery is completely discharged and must be completely recharged, this battery charger requires some 5.5-6h to complete the task.

For more information about this charger, feel free to check the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 20Ah LiFePO4 Battery Charger Amazon link (link opens in the new window).

However, if charging time is important, stronger charging currents can be used, with charging currents up to 50 Amps, since the manufacturer claims that charging currents of up to 100 Amps are allowed.

There are several suitable 25-50 Amps battery chargers on the market. However, NOCO Genius Pro 25 and NOCO Genius Pro 50 are highly recommended.

Both battery chargers support the charging and repairing of the 6V, 12V, and 24V batteries, including wet/flooded, Gel-Cell, and AGM lead-acid batteries and of course, lithium batteries.

Also, both units support charging smaller batteries with weaker currents (NOCO Genius Pro 25: down to 5A, NOCO Genius Pro 50: down to 10A), come with a set of safety features, both are able to detect deeply discharged batteries, etc.

As such, these chargers are not cheap, but neither are the batteries they are intended to charge.

For more information about these battery chargers, feel free to check the NOCO Genius Pro 25 and NOCO Genius Pro 50 Amazon links (links open in the new window).

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery As Inverter Battery

With its nominal voltage of 12.8V and 100 Amps continuous discharge current (and 280A for 5 seconds!), the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah lithium battery can be used as an excellent inverter battery.

For example, when a 1000W inverter with 85% efficiency is connected to the battery, the inverter draws ~1180 watts from the battery, which should not be a problem for a new, fully charged Ampere Time 12V 100Ah lithium battery for at least one hour.

Also, thanks to the 280A/5s pulse current, the battery can provide enough energy for power surges up to 3000 watts.

So, if You have a power inverter with a maximum output power of 1000W and surge output power up to 3000W, consider Ampere Time 12V 100Ah lithium battery as your next inverter battery.

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery As Trolling Motor Battery

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah battery is often used as a lightweight trolling motor battery, either to power 12V trolling motors or connected in parallel and/or series to create battery packs with larger capacity and/or higher voltage.

With a typical 55 lbs trolling motor requiring up to 50 Amps continuously and up to 25-30 Amps at half throttle, LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah battery can power such motor for:

Note: If You are using your electric trolling motor at full throttle most of the time, your trolling motor is seriously underpowered and must be replaced with a stronger unit for many reasons, additional safety being just one of them.

Long Story Short: LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah lithium battery is a very popular BCI Group 31 LiFePO4 battery. it is a versatile battery that can withstand a large number of charging/discharging cycles and can provide a relatively strong current.

Also, it supports 4P4S connections (up to 4 batteries in parallel, up to 4 in series) for making larger battery packs.

As such, this battery is the preferred choice for applications where an ultralight battery that cycles well is required. trolling motor battery, RV house battery, inverter battery, solar battery, electric vehicles, off-the-grid applications, etc.

For more reviews and recommendations, feel free to check the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery Amazon link (the link opens in the new window).

Review: Redodo 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery

USE CODE: CHARGERH FOR 3% OFF AT RedodoPower.com

Deep cycle Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are a great alternative to power stations because, for the most part, they cost less in terms of the capacity you’re getting. You’ll still be spending less, even adding on the cost of an inverter and a battery charger. There are also ways to use these types of deep-cycle batteries without an inverter and have a direct connection to what you want to power.

I‘m looking at this Redodo 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery in this review. This comes from a well-known brand on Amazon, and their batteries are on the lower price side. I have done a full video review of this battery, but if you want to read a review article and take a look at photos, this one is for you.

What comes in the Box

What you’re getting in the box with this Redodo 12V 100Ah battery are four post bolts, two positive and negative insulated covers, a manual, and a piece of paper that gives you some info about the dos and don’t for the battery. You do not get a battery charger in the box and have to purchase that separately, and that’s not a problem in this case because, in general, batteries like this don’t come with battery chargers in the first place.

Overall, what you’re getting with this Redodo battery is standard for these batteries, and it’s not missing anything vital. Including four post bolts is a great addition; the manual contains rich information, and the paper giving vital info is a nice touch.

Power Capacity

So to get the Watt Hour (Wh) capacity of this Redodo battery, you have to multiply 12V and 100Ah, and you end up with a 1280Wh capacity. So, yes, this Redodo battery does have a 1280Wh capacity, and that’s a lot of power; when you consider a power station with a 1280Wh capacity, you’re looking to spend about 1,000 or more, in this case, you’re spending way less. Go ahead and look at their product page for this battery to see how little you’d pay to get so much capacity.

Of course, with a power station, you get everything already put together and ready to use. Still, as I mentioned, you can choose your inverter and battery charger when you go with a battery like this, which is very low cost. Also, this is a LiFePO4 battery, which can last for about 4,000 charge cycles. LiFePO4 batteries are the way to go because you’re getting your money’s worth, as the battery will last much longer than Lead Acid batteries or regular Lithium-Ion batteries. You’re looking at many years of usage for this Redodo battery.

Also, when it comes to powering appliances for a 1280Wh capacity, you can power a 1W appliance for 1,280 hours or a 1280W appliance for 1 hour. So you have a lot more flexibility when it comes to the longevity of the capacity depending on what appliances you’re looking to power.

MakerHawk Battery Capacity Test

For the capacity test, I used a MakerHawk load test and connected the positive and negative clamps of the load test to the Redodo battery. I set the Voltage to about 12.8V and had the Amps set to about 10 Amps. I ran this test overnight to drain the capacity of this Redodo battery to 0%. After about 9 hours, I returned to the load tester turned off, and the battery was fully depleted of its capacity. What I ended up with was a 103Ah capacity and a 1,298Wh capacity. So on the Amp Hour (Ah) reading, I got a 103% efficiency rating, and on the Watt Hour (Wh) side, I got 101% efficiency. So this Redodo 100Ah battery has a 1280Wh capacity and a bit more, so you’re spending your money wisely for not only the capacity but also the many change cycles that come with a LiFePO4 type of battery.

Also, somebody mentioned in one of my battery capacity test videos that these batteries have a bit more capacity than they say they do to ensure they output the advertised capacity.

Output Charging:

Since this battery has a 1280Wh capacity, it has a 1280W continuous power output and a 1280W max input.

For our testing of this Redodo 100Ah battery, I used a Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave inverter. To clarify, you don’t have to use a 2000W inverter for this Redodo battery; in fact, using this inverter is way over the top. Instead, I would recommend a 1200W inverter or lower, depending on your budget and needs; however, in this case, I wanted to push this Redodo battery as far as possible to see what it is capable of. Also, when choosing an inverter, make sure that it’s a Pure Sine Wave inverter to ensure that your appliances run the way they’re supposed to.

Heater Test

So for the first test, I did with this battery through the inverter powering a Lasko heater. I had an electricity monitor connected to the inverter to tell me what was happening regarding Watt Hour (Wh) pulled from the battery and the wattage output the appliance was drawing. I set the Lasko heater to low first and ended up with an 850W output; this is not a problem for the Redodo battery to handle as it’s capable of a 1280W continuous power output. After running it at low for about a minute, I set the heater to high, and the output jumped to about 1400W. With a 1400W output, the heater is over the 1280W output of this Redodo battery, but it still keeps running.

I kept running the Lasko heater for 47 minutes until the battery was completely depleted. So you can run a 1400W load from an inverter using this Redodo battery, and it can handle it for nearly an hour. Also, I got an AC capacity of 1,100Wh, which is a 86% efficiency rating when it comes to using an inverter with the battery; this type of conversion through an AC outlet is better than most power stations.

Electric Cooktop Toaster Oven Test

For the next test, I used a 1000W electric cooktop and placed a saucepan with four cups of water on top to see how fast I could boil water and how much capacity I use up. The cooktop pulled about 950W; it took about 8 minutes for the water to boil and used up 120Wh of the Redodo battery’s capacity. So you can easily cook with a high enough wattage inverter using this battery, and you won’t lose much capacity.

For the final test, I used a toaster oven to power from this battery and inverter. I set the toaster oven to 450 ° F and had to run it for about 10 minutes. The toaster oven pulled 1170W and used about 120Wh capacity from this Redodo battery. So you can easily have food toasted with this battery, too.

Overall, a 12V/100Ah battery is best to own. Going lower on the Amp Hour (Ah) scale means having lower wattage usage and less capacity to use, which ultimately means a shorter runtime. Going with a higher capacity battery means spending more, but at the same time, you get so much more capacity and wattage usage. That said, 100Ah batteries are the sweet spot for price and function.

Recharging the Battery:

You can use any 14.4V or 14.6V battery charger to recharge this Redodo 100Ah battery. In my case, I used an Ampere Time 10 Amp battery charger to recharge the unit. This is one of the lowest-cost battery chargers you can get, but it’s also one of the slowest ways to recharge. This Ampere Time 10 Amp battery charger works the same way as any other one. I just attached the negative and positive clamps to the negative and positive terminals on this Redodo battery, and it began charging.

The light on the Ampere Time battery charger turns red to indicate that it’s charging, and then it turns green to indicate that the battery is fully recharged and charging stops. Of course, as I mentioned before, a 10 Amp battery charger is relatively slow, and going from 0% to 100% will take about 10 – 12 hours.

Size and Weight:

This Redodo 100Ah battery has a length of 13 inches, a width of 6.7 inches, and a height of 8.4 inches. The battery weighs 25 pounds. So it’s not a large battery, but it has some weight. The battery does have a handle strap that makes it easier to move around, and you can also easily remove the handle if you want.

Functional Components:

In this case, when it came to using the battery with the Renogy 2000W inverter, I connected the negative and positive terminal cables from the inverter to the battery. Once the terminal ends were screwed onto the battery, I could turn on the inverter and power the appliances.

Structure and Material:

The build quality of this Redodo battery is good. The battery has an IP65 water resistance rating, meaning it can withstand rain and high-pressure jets but cannot withstand water submersion. The casing is solid, and I couldn’t find any flaws with its build quality. However, you shouldn’t drop this battery, as I’m not sure if the casing can survive a fall, as most batteries are not exactly built up to that standard.

Tech:

For the technical build, this Redodo battery has overcharge, over-discharge, temperature, short circuit, and all other protections to ensure that it performs smoothly and that you’re safe. In my heater test, when I had the heater running at about 1400W, this battery could keep supplying power to the Renogy inverter. If the battery got too hot, it would automatically shut off, but that didn’t happen in my test, as it could fully deplete its capacity.

Reliability

The testing I’ve conducted from the MakerHawk load tester and the Renogy inverter shows that this Redodo 100Ah battery is very reliable. It has the capacity it says it has a little more. Also, it uses a LiFePO4 battery cell which gives many charge cycles that allow the battery to last for many years. On the inverter side, I could power a Lasko heater at 1400W, above the 1280W that this battery is capable of. The inverter AC capacity pulled 86% efficiency from this Redodo battery.

So, this is very reliable for a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery.

Summary:

This 1280Wh capacity is precisely what you’re getting, and just a bit more because of the load test I ran. This battery can also handle loads over its 1280W max continuous output, as I ran a 1400W load for nearly an hour.

This battery is pretty small, but it does weigh 25 pounds. The removable handle does make it easier to carry the battery. Connecting the inverter was very easy, and recharging was simple, too.

The build quality of this Redodo battery is solid because of its IP65 water resistance rating. It also has many technical protections that ensure it will be safe, such as overload, short circuit, and temperature control protections.

If you want an all-around reliable battery, a 100Ah battery is the one to go with, as it has tons of capacity, power input, and output capabilities, and it comes at an affordable price compared to a 1280Wh power station.

Redodo 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery Specs

Conclusion:

This Redodo 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery is an excellent choice because it’s exactly what it says it is. This 1280Wh battery can supply more than 1280W of power through an inverter; of course, you shouldn’t do that frequently with a battery like this, but I was able to run 1400W for almost an hour. Also, for a 1280Wh capacity and even adding on the cost of an inverter and a battery charger, this Redodo battery can be a better choice than an equivalent power station.

Charging Lithium Batteries: The Basics

How can I charge a LiFePO4 battery?

Do I have to buy a special charger for LiFePO4 batteries?

Can I Charge My L ithium B atteries Using The Alternator?

The Lithium Battery Charging C ycle : to float or not to float?

All About Multi-bank Charging:

What are the proper charging voltages for the 12V, 24V, and 48V lithium batteries?

How long does it take to charg e lithium batteries ?

Charging Lithium Batteries: The Basics

How can I charge a LiFePO4 battery?

Do I have to buy a special charger for LiFePO4 batteries?

Can I Charge My L ithium B atteries Using The Alternator?

The Lithium Battery Charging C ycle : to float or not to float?

All About Multi-bank Charging:

What are the proper charging voltages for the 12V, 24V, and 48V lithium batteries?

How long does it take to charg e lithium batteries ?

How to choose the correct battery charger

Simple steps to select the right battery charger for your needs:

Step 1: Choosing a Charger Based on Battery Type

Step 2: Determining Battery Size

Step 3: Choosing a Battery Charger Based on Desired Outcome

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate LiFePO4 Features and Specifications

How to Charge the LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery As Inverter Battery

LiTime (Ampere Time) 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery As Trolling Motor Battery

Review: Redodo 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery

What comes in the Box

Power Capacity

MakerHawk Battery Capacity Test

Output Charging:

Heater Test

Electric Cooktop Toaster Oven Test

Recharging the Battery:

Size and Weight:

Functional Components:

Structure and Material:

Tech:

Reliability

Summary:

Conclusion:

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