How to Wire 12V Batteries in Series Parallel (w/ Photos!)
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In this tutorial, I’ll show you step-by-step how to wire batteries in series and parallel, as well as how to combine the two to create series-parallel combinations. I’ll also cover when to use series or parallel wiring.
Click on a wiring method to jump to its instructions:
How to Wire Batteries in Series
Wiring batteries in series sums their voltages and keeps their amp hours the same. It’s particularly useful for wiring two 6V lead acid batteries, or four 3.2V lithium cells, to make a 12V battery.
Series connections can also be used to wire multiple 12V lead acid or lithium batteries together to make a 24V, 36V, or 48V battery bank, which is useful in DIY and off-grid solar applications.
Parts Tools
- 2 identical batteries — I’ll be using Chins 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries
- 1 battery cables — the number of cables you need is the 1 less than the number of batteries you’re wiring in series
- Screwdriver or ratchet — for tightening bolts
- Optional: Multimeter — for checking battery bank voltage
Step 1: Connect the Negative Terminal of One Battery to the Positive Terminal of Another
Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of one battery. To do so, use a ratchet or screwdriver to unscrew the terminal’s bolt. Thread the cable’s ring terminal through the bolt, then screw the bolt back on the terminal.
Note: Some people prefer to use black cables for series connections, others prefer red. I prefer black, but there’s no right or wrong choice. Just use the color of cable you prefer or have on hand.
Connect the other end of the battery cable to the positive terminal of another battery.
That’s it! Your batteries are now wired in series. You’ll often hear connected batteries referred to as a “string” of batteries. So now you have a series string of 2 batteries.
If you want, check your battery bank’s voltage with a multimeter. Because I wired two 12V batteries in series, I expect to measure a voltage of around 24 volts. (In reality, a 12V LiFePO4 battery’s resting voltage will usually be closer to 13-13.5 volts, so I’d expect a voltage of around 26-27 volts.) I got 26.4 volts, which is exactly in line with expectations.
Check! My two 12V 100Ah batteries are now wired in series, resulting in a 24V 100Ah battery bank.
Note: If you don’t want to bother with wiring batteries yourself, many brands offer pre-made 24V batteries and 48V batteries.
Step 2: Repeat as Needed
If your battery allows it, you can repeat the above steps to connect more batteries in series.
You can wire three 12V batteries in series to create a 36V battery bank. Once again, just connect the negative terminal of your 2-battery series string to the positive terminal of the third battery.
And, once again, you can use a multimeter to check that the voltage is around 36 volts. I got 39.7 volts, so I know my 3 batteries are correctly connected in series.
You can wire a fourth battery in series following the same steps. My batteries can handle up to 4 wired in series, so let’s do one last one for good measure.
And we’ll check the battery bank’s voltage with a multimeter, expecting a voltage of around 48 volts. I got 52.9 volts, so we’re good to go.
Done! Like I said, you can wire as many in series as your batteries allow for. LiFePO4 batteries are often limited to 4 batteries in series to protect the BMS. However, there are some that can’t be wired in series, such as the Renogy 12V 100Ah Smart Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery. Be sure to check!
How to Wire Batteries in Parallel
Wiring batteries in parallel sums their amp hour capacities and current limits and keeps their voltage the same.
Parallel wiring is useful when you want to keep your battery voltage the same — such as when you’re powering 12V devices directly off a 12V battery — while increasing runtime and current limits.
Parts Tools
- 2 identical batteries
- 2 battery cables — for 2 batteries you need 2, for 3 batteries you need 4, for 4 batteries you need 6. Formula: 2 (x – 1), where x is the number of batteries.
- Screwdriver or ratchet — for tightening bolts
Step 1: Connect the Positive Terminal of One Battery to the Positive Terminal of Another
Use a battery cable to connect the two batteries’ positive terminals together. I recommend using a red battery cable for this connection.
Step 2: Connect the Negative Terminal of the First Battery to the Negative Terminal of the Other
Use a second battery cable to connect the two batteries’ negative terminals together. I recommend using a black battery cable for this connection.
Your 2 batteries are now wired in parallel. This is what people mean when they say you wire batteries in parallel by connecting positive to positive and negative to negative.
In this example, I wired two 12V 100Ah batteries in parallel to get a 12V 200Ah battery bank. Because parallel connections don’t affect voltage, there’s no way to use a multimeter to check the connection.
If you want, you can do a capacity test. That requires some extra equipment, though, so I won’t cover that here.
Note: If you don’t want to wire batteries in parallel yourself, many battery brands also sell 12V batteries in 200Ah, 300Ah, and 400Ah sizes.
Step 3: Repeat as Needed
If your batteries allow it, you can repeat the above steps to connect even more batteries in parallel.
To connect a third, again wire positive to positive and negative to negative. This results for me in a 12V 300Ah battery bank.
To connect a fourth, repeat the connections. Now I have a 12V 400Ah battery bank.
How to Wire Batteries in Series-Parallel
You can use a combination of series and parallel connections to make a battery bank with your desired voltage and capacity. There are many different series-parallel wiring configurations you can choose from. I’ll cover the simplest in this tutorial.
Series-parallel wiring can get confusing. It pays to research and ask around for help on online forums if you’re unsure how your specific setup should be wired.
Parts Tools
- 4 identical batteries
- 4 battery cables — the exact number you need will depend on your wiring configuration
- Screwdriver or ratchet — for tightening bolts
- Optional: Multimeter — for checking battery bank voltage
Step 1: Wire Your Batteries in Series Strings of Equal Length
Decide what voltage you want your battery bank to have. For this example, I’ll go with 24 volts. I’m using 12V batteries, so that means each of my series strings needs to be 2 batteries in length.
Wire your batteries in series strings of equal length. I have 4 batteries, so I wired them in 2 strings, each of which has 2 batteries wired in series.
If you want, check the voltage of each string with a multimeter. In this case, I’d expect mine to read something close to 24 volts.
Now I have two 24V 100Ah battery banks, and I can connect them in parallel to expand their amp hour capacity.
Step 2: Wire Your Series Strings in Parallel
Wire the 2 series strings in parallel by connecting positive to positive and negative to negative.
If you want, check the voltage of your finished battery bank with a multimeter. I wired two 24V 100Ah battery banks in parallel to get a 24V 200Ah battery bank, so I expect a voltage of around 24 volts. I got 26.4 volts, which is exactly as expected.
Done! You can use these principles to wire even more batteries into different series-parallel combinations.
Note: A shorthand that people use to describe a battery bank’s wiring configuration is to list the number of batteries wired in series followed by the letter “s” and then the number of batteries wired in parallel followed by the letter “p”. For instance, I just created a 2s2p battery bank. Some LiFePO4 batteries can be wired into as big as 4s4p configurations.
How Wiring in Batteries in Series Parallel Affects Voltage Capacity
Wiring batteries in series sums their voltages while keeping their amp hour capacity the same. Wiring two 12V 100Ah batteries in series gives you a 24V 100Ah battery bank.
Wiring batteries in parallel sums their amp hour capacities while keeping their voltage the same. Wiring two 12V 100Ah batteries in parallel gives you a 12V 200Ah battery bank.
Amp Hours vs Watt Hours
Amp hours (Ah) and milliamp hours (mAh) are commonly used to describe battery capacity. However, the total amount of energy a battery can deliver is best expressed in watt hours (Wh), which is equal to a battery’s amp hours times its voltage.
Formula: watt hours = amp hours × voltage
What this means is that, regardless of how you wire your batteries together, you’re increasing the total watt hours of your battery bank. A 24V 100Ah battery bank and a 12V 200Ah battery bank both have 2400 watt hours.
24V × 100Ah = 2400Wh 12V × 200Ah = 2400Wh
You can use our battery capacity calculator to calculate the amp hour or watt hour capacity of your battery given how many batteries you have wired in series and parallel.
When to Wire Batteries in Series vs Parallel
Series
- You want to save money on wiring and equipment such as solar charge controllers. Series wiring increases voltage which helps keep current (amperage) low. Wire and other electrical equipment get more expensive the higher their current ratings get. That being said, electrical equipment also has voltage ratings, so be careful not to exceed these, either. Voltage ratings tend to be higher, though, and you don’t as often need to worry about them in DC electrical systems.
- You can raise voltage while still powering your devices. Often, you’ll want to power a device directly off the battery. For instance, you may want to connect 12V LED lights or a 12V inverter to your 12V battery. Devices have acceptable voltage ranges — 12V LED lights might be able to accept 11-15V, for instance — so wiring in series is best when you can raise battery voltage without exceeding the acceptable input voltages of your devices. If you’re connecting your batteries to a solar charge controller, also check that the charge controller is rated for the higher battery voltage.
Parallel
- You want to increase runtime while keeping your battery bank voltage the same. Parallel wiring increases amp hour capacity while keeping voltage the same, meaning your battery bank will last longer while still being able to power the same devices.
- You want to increase your battery’s max charge and discharge rates. Batteries have recommended charge and discharge rates, which are based on their amp hour capacity. For instance, most 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries have a recommended max continuous charge rate of 50 amps, and most 100Ah lead acid batteries have a recommended max continuous charge rate of 30 amps. Because these rates are based on battery amp hours, you can increase them by adding more batteries in parallel. You can estimate charge time using our battery charge time calculator.
- You want to lower your battery’s C-rate. How fast a battery charges and discharges can be expressed as something called a C-rate. Different types of batteries have different recommended C-rates for charging and discharging, and exceeding these can shorten your battery’s lifespan or affect how many amp hours the battery actually outputs. You can lower your battery’s C-rate by expanding your battery bank’s amp hour capacity while keeping charing and discharging currents the same.
Can You Be Electrocuted by a 12 Volt Car Battery?
Jeremy Laukkonen is automotive and tech writer for numerous major trade publications. When not researching and testing computers, game consoles or smartphones, he stays up-to-date on the myriad complex systems that power battery electric vehicles.
Michael Heine is a CompTIA-certified writer, editor, and Network Engineer with 25 years’ experience working in the television, defense, ISP, telecommunications, and education industries.
The scene is familiar if you’ve watched a lot of spy dramas or thrillers: the Hero has been captured, restrained, and is helpless to resist as his captor hooks up a pair of jumper cables to a car battery. As dutiful consumers of media, we’ve been conditioned to know that means our Hero is about to be tortured, possibly to within an inch of his life.
But that’s in the movies. Here in the real world, can a car battery actually electrocute you?
The full answer to that question is predictably complex, but at the root of things, this is just another one of the many fibs Hollywood tells in the service of offering a more engaging story and a bigger spectacle.
While there are certain aspects of automotive electrical systems that are dangerous, and batteries themselves can also be dangerous, the deck is stacked against your car battery electrocuting you, let alone killing you.
Why Can’t Your Car Battery Electrocute You?
The math can get a little complicated, but the main reason that you can safely touch the positive and negative terminals of a typical car battery, and walk away unscathed, has to do with the voltage of the battery. While car batteries technically have the amperage to kill you, the voltage is a different story.
Car batteries have a nominal voltage of 12V, which can vary up or down a little depending on the level of charge. Alone, that just isn’t enough to pose a problem. If you wired many batteries in series, you could potentially reach a voltage high enough to reach dangerous territory.
Traditional car batteries are capable of delivering a lot of amperage in short bursts, which is the main reason that ancient lead-acid technology is still in use. Starter motors require a lot of amperage to run, and lead-acid batteries are good at providing short, intense bursts of amperage.
However, there’s a world of difference between the coils of a starter motor and the high contact resistance of the human body.
Simply put, voltage can be thought of as “pressure,” so while a car battery may technically have enough amperage to kill you, the paltry 12 volts DC simply doesn’t provide enough pressure to push any significant amount of amperage through the contact resistance of your skin.
That’s why you can touch both terminals of a car battery without receiving a shock, although you may feel a tingle if your hands are wet. Certainly nothing like the confession-inducing, potentially-deadly, electrical torture you may have seen in the movies or on television, though.
Don’t douse yourself in saltwater and hook yourself up to jumper cables, or insert electrodes into your fingertips and touch them to a car battery, to test this. The math says you would probably be just fine, but the human body is a complicated thing, and these aren’t experiments worth doing.
Car Batteries Are Still Dangerous
Your car battery, in and of itself, may not be capable of delivering a deadly—or even noticeable—electric shock, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t dangerous. The main danger associated with car batteries is an explosion, which can occur due to a phenomenon known as “gassing,” where the battery releases flammable hydrogen gas.
If the hydrogen gas is ignited by a spark, the entire battery can explode, showering you with sulfuric acid. This is why it’s so important to follow the correct procedure when hooking up jumper cables or a battery charger.
Another danger associated with car batteries has to do with accidentally bridging the terminals, or accidentally bridging any B wire or connector, like the starter solenoid, to ground. While a car battery can’t pump a dangerous amount of amperage into your body, a metal wrench has far less resistance, and will tend to grow extremely hot, and may even become welded in place, if it bridges battery positive to ground. That’s pretty much bad news all around.
Some Automotive Electrical Systems Are Dangerous
Remember when we said that the main reason car batteries can’t electrocute you is because they’re only 12V? Well, that’s true, but the problem is that not all car batteries are 12V. There was a huge push in the early 2000s to move from 12V systems to 42V systems, which would have been much more dangerous to work with, but the switch never really materialized for a variety of reasons.
However, hybrid and electric vehicles often come with two batteries: a traditional lead-acid battery for the starter, lighting, and ignition (SLI) functions, and a much higher voltage battery or battery pack to run the electric motor or motors. These batteries often use lithium-ion or nickel-metal hydride technology instead of lead-acid, and they are often rated at 200 or more volts.
The good news is that hybrid and electric vehicles typically don’t keep their high voltage battery packs anywhere that you’re likely to run into them on accident, and they almost always use some type of color code to warn you about high voltage wires.
In most cases, high voltage wires are color-coded orange, although some use blue instead, so it’s a good idea to verify what color your vehicle uses before you try to work on it.
When 12 Volt Electrical Systems Actually Can Shock You
Although you can’t be electrocuted by simply touching the terminals of a regular car battery, due to the low voltage, you can receive a nasty shock from other components of a traditional automotive electrical system.
For instance, in ignition systems that use a cap and rotor, an ignition coil is used to provide the tremendous amount of voltage that’s required to push a spark across the air gap of a spark plug. If you run afoul of that voltage, typically by touching a spark plug wire or coil wire with frayed insulation, while also touching ground, you will definitely feel a bite.
The reason that you can be shocked by touching a worn spark plug wire while touching the battery terminals won’t do anything, is that the voltage pumped out by the ignition coil is high enough to push through the contact resistance of your skin.
Getting zapped like this probably still won’t kill you, but it’s still a good idea to steer clear anyway, especially if you’re dealing with the higher voltage of a distributorless ignition system.
So What about the Persistent Car Battery Torture Trope?
There’s actually a kernel of truth hidden in the scene we opened with. If a villain starts with a car battery, which he hooks to ateranother device, and then uses that device to torture the Hero, that’s a situation that’s grounded in reality.
There’s a very real device known as a picana that, powered by a common 12V car battery, is capable of delivering electric shocks of very low amperage at high voltages, which, like grabbing a hold of a bad coil wire, is extremely unpleasant.
So while grabbing the terminals of your battery isn’t likely to provide even the weakest of shocks, let alone kill you, this is a trope you can more or less chalk up to artistic license.
How-to Wire Two 12-Volt Batteries to Make 12 or 24 Volts
See all 3 photos 3 photos Ron Rollings
Depending on How They’re Wired, Two 12-Volt Batteries Yield a 12-Volt System with Double the Amps or a Efficient 24-Volt System with Twice the Cranking Speed
Cars, trucks, RVs, and motorhomes run dual 12-volt batteries for various reasons. Depending on how you wire a two-battery 12-volt system, the result can be a 12-volt system or a 24-volt system—or even both 12 volts and 24 volts.
Dual-battery use examples include:
Race car ballast: Two trunk-mounted batteries can supply critical ballast, especially in classes where the rules prohibit dedicated ballast.
Drag-only car without an alternator: If you’re not running an alternator but using a modern high-output ignition system and other current-hungry devices (such as an electric water pump, an electric fuel pump, trans-brakes, nitrous solenoids, and delay boxes) in a drag car, one battery can be dedicated to just the ignition system, while the other feeds the remaining current consumers.
See all 3 photos 3 photos A battery isolator separates the auxiliary battery from the primary battery, ensuring extra loads will not drain the battery. Powermaster PN 194, shown here, has a 200-amp rating and (as of June 2020) goes for 143.99 at Summit Racing.
High-end show cars with high-zoot sound systems: A separate battery dedicated just for the sound system and isolated from the rest of the electrical system might be needed if the car sits in a parking lot with the speakers blasting out the big vibes for an extended time period. A setup like this would include two batteries, a mechanical marine dual-battery selector switch, and a battery isolator. This lets the alternator recharge both the main battery and the auxiliary battery when the car is running, but when shut down, the auxiliary battery used to power the sound-system discharges.
Hard cranking with high compression and lots of advance: Running multiple batteries in parallel generates more cold-cranking amps during crank, though voltage is still 12 volts. Today’s performance batteries and starters are so efficient that this isn’t usually an issue; before you do anything, first check for excessive voltage drop or bad grounds on the starter cables, not a weak battery or starter.
See all 3 photos 3 photos In basic form, here is the difference between wiring two 12-volt batteries in series versus in parallel. The parallel circuit still generates 12 volts but doubles the amperage output. The series circuit yields a 24-volt system, but the amperage does not change. 24 volts to the starter and solenoid makes it crank twice as fast as 12 volts.
Ultimate cranking power: When even two 12-volt batteries in parallel can’t get the job done, or if you’re the AAA emergency service vehicle that must, by hook or by crook, start anything, it’s time to juice 24 volts by wiring the batteries in series. Connect the positive terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other battery (see illustration). This supplies more cranking power than even two 12-volt batteries wired in parallel. Intermittent-duty starters can handle 24-volts, well, intermittently.
Full-time 24volts: If it’s good enough for a jet fighter, it’s good enough for my car. Besides, I just drool over all those trick parts at the surplus store. Trouble is, a full 24-volt conversion in a car may be impractical in the real world. Constant-duty car accessories won’t withstand 24 volts for long (if at all), and 24-volt substitute equivalents for everyday car parts might not be practical or available. (But if two 12-volt batteries are wired to yield a 24-volt system, you can still use a 12-volt alternator to charge them.)
Dual 12/24-volt system: Yet another wiring twist is to use a Littelfuse (formerly Cole Hersee) continuous-duty solenoid to create a series/parallel distribution circuit that generates 24 volts under crank, then defaults back to 12 volts to power everything else under normal running conditions.
Littelfuse Inc., Chicago, IL, 773.628.1000, Littelfuse.com Powermaster Motorsports, W. Chicago, IL, 630.957.4019 (sales) or 630.849.7754 (tech), PowermasteMotorsports.com Summit Racing Equipment, Akron, OH, 800.230.3030 (U.S.) or 330.630.3030 (outside U.S. ), SummitRacing.com
Does wiring two 12-volt batteries together make 24 volts?
See all 3 photos 3 photos Ron Rollings
What Battery Cable Size Should I Use?
One upgrade RVers and boaters often make is to their battery systems. Whether you’re adding an additional battery or a whole new solar power system, choosing the correct battery cable size for your system is critical. Let’s jump in and talk about why it’s so important to select the right cable size and, more importantly, how to do it!
What Size Wire Is A Battery Cable?
Cables coming directly from your battery are the main artery of your RV electrical system. Since they come directly from the battery, they typically carry more current (measured in amps) than any other cables or wires in your RV. As a result, your battery cable size will need to be rated for the highest current and ultimately the thickest.
What size wire you need for your battery cabling depends on how much power your RV requires. There isn’t one correct answer to this question.
Below we will discuss how to figure out how much power your RV uses and how to use that information to select the proper cable size for your batteries.
What is Wire Gauge?
Wire gauge is the measurement of a wire’s diameter or thickness. The US standard for measuring wire gauges is the American Wire Gauge scale, or AWG for short.
In the AWG system, the higher the number of the cable rating, the thinner the wire and, therefore, the less current it can carry.
For example, if you look at the chart below, you will see that 12 AWG, which has a diameter of 2.05 mm, can carry 20-25 amps up to 4 feet. 14 AWG, which has a diameter of 1.62 mm, can only carry 15-20 amps the same distance.
Wire Size Requirements: Determining Factors
Thicker wires can carry more current for longer distances. Without getting into the math behind it, the reason for this is that a cable’s resistance increases as its diameter decreases or the length increases.
Therefore, the size cable you need depends on two things: how much current you need to carry and how long your cable runs need to be. This is why the AWG sizing chart lists the different current capacities at various lengths. As the cable length increases, so does the required cable thickness.
Wires have a maximum voltage rating as well. However, since your RV battery cables will only be 12 volts, you do not need to worry about the voltage rating when determining which battery cable size to use.
What Happens If The Battery Cable Size Is Too Small?
As we mentioned earlier, thicker wires have lower resistance. Resistance in a wire causes two main things to happen as current passes through it.
Voltage Drop
The first is that a voltage drop occurs. This means that the voltage at the end of the wire is lower than the voltage at the battery. If you have too much drop in voltage, your electronics will not work.
The voltage drop in a wire is calculated using Ohm’s law, V=IR. V is voltage drop, I is the current passing through the wire, and R is the wire’s resistance. As you can see, if you increase the current, the resistance, or both, you will increase your voltage drop.
Resistance in a wire is dependent on both the thickness (the gauge) and the total length of the wire. If you undersize your battery cables, one issue that can occur is an excessive voltage drop that may prevent your electronics from working.
Wires Get Hot
The second thing that happens as current passes through a wire is that heat is generated. Much like voltage drop, more resistance in the wire results in more heat being generated. If wires are undersized, they can get so hot that the casing melts and can cause a fire. Fires are much more catastrophic than too much voltage drop and are the main risk in choosing too small of a battery cable.
RV fires often lead to the complete loss of not only the RV but also its contents. Having wire that is overrated for the amperage helps protect wires from overheating and potentially igniting. While it’s better to be safe than sorry when it comes to wire gauge, going too big has some drawbacks as well.
What Happens If The Battery Cable Size Is Too Big?
There are three main drawbacks to choosing a battery cable wire gauge that is too big: cost, weight, and ease of use.
Cost
Probably the most significant consideration is cost. Thicker wire gauges cost more. If you are only running a few feet of battery cable, the additional cost will be insignificant. As cable runs get longer, cost becomes more of a consideration.
Weight Ease of Use
Similar to cost, as the wire gauge increases, so does the weight. Again, if your cable runs are short, the added weight will be negligible.
The last drawback to using thicker cable is that working with it is more challenging. Trying to bend and manipulate overly thick cabling in an RV’s small cramped compartments is not a fun time.
The drawbacks to oversizing your battery cabling are much less risky than choosing cables that are too small. However, choosing excessively thick cables can add unnecessary cost, weight, and frustration to your project. While it’s smarter and safer to choose too big rather than too small, just picking the thickest cable you can find isn’t a great strategy either.
How Do You Figure Out How Many Amps An RV Will Be Using?
Calculating your current requirements is pretty straightforward. Most appliances and electronics in your RV will have a current and power rating. If all of your electronics run on 12 volts (the same as your battery system), you simply add up the current ratings for each to determine your total current draw.
If you have appliances and electronics that run on 120 volts, the same as the power available in your home, you will need an inverter. An inverter converts DC power (from the battery) to AC power (like in your house). The process for calculating your current requirements with an inverter is simple as well.
You first need to add up the total power requirements (in watts) of each appliance in your RV to determine what size inverter you need. For example, if the combined power requirement of all your appliances and electronics is 2,500 watts, you probably want a 3,000-watt inverter.
Once you know your inverter size, the calculation to figure out the current draw is easy. Simply divide the watt rating of the inverter by the input battery voltage. In our example above, you divide 3,000 watts (the inverter rating) by 12 volts (the battery voltage), giving you a maximum current draw of 250 amps.
What Gauge Wire Size Should Be Used For Battery Cables?
Remember that choosing the correct wire gauge for your battery cable size is based on two factors: current and distance.
Now that you know how to calculate your current requirement, you just need to figure out how far you need to run your cables. Remember, shorter is always better. Less cable means less weight and lower cost.
After you know both the cable length and the current, you can quickly look up what size battery cable to use. The wire sizing chart below helps you choose the correct wire gauge for your RV batteries. From this table, it’s easy to see that lower current and shorter distance allow for smaller cables.
You’ll also see that as current or distance increases so does the required cable thickness. Reach out to an expert if something becomes confusing; guessing which wire gauge is not the solution to your problem.
Picking The Correct Battery Cable Size
RV battery cables are a small but essential part of a complex and integral system in your RV. Choosing the wrong size battery cable can lead to extra cost, frustration, and potentially even a fire.
However, picking the correct battery cable size for your system doesn’t need to be stressful. Use the tips above or reach out to a Battle Born expert with any questions to help make your RV battery upgrade project a success!