Battery Acid. Battery acid meaning

battery, acid, meaning

Battery Acid

Battery acid is sulfuric acid that has been diluted with water to attain a 37% concentration level. This particular type of acid is used in sealed lead acid batteries, however, concentration levels differenciate with some brands. These batteries use a combination of lead plates and an electrolyte consisting of a diluted sulphuric acid to convert electrical energy into potential chemical energy and back again. Although this acid allows us to have portable power in the form of SLA batteries, the actual acid can be extremely dangerous. It’s corrosive nature literally melts any bodily tissue it comes in contact with. When it comes in contact with soil it will actually contaminate it for an extended period of time depending on the concentration of the acid. This could potentially be harmful to humans, animals and the environment. Because of this, SLA batteries must be recycled. It is illegal to dispose of these batteries in the garbage. Here at Atbatt.com we offer a battery recycling service for your convenience as well as the general cleanliness of our planet.

Sulfuric acid, also known as oil of vitriol, has a chemical formula of H2SO4 in H2O. The emergency overview label on this chemical reads: ‘POISON! DANGER! CORROSIVE. LIQUID AND MIST CAUSE SEVERE BURNS TO ALL BODY TISSUE. MAY BE FATAL IF SWALLOWED OR CONTACTED WITH SKIN. HARMFUL IF INHALED. AFFECTS TEETH. WATER REACTIVE. CANCER HAZARD. STRONG INORGANIC ACID MISTS CONTAINING SULFURIC ACID CAN CAUSE CANCER. Risk of cancer depends on duration and level of exposure.’

Safety Data Ratings

Health Rating: 4. Extreme (Poison) Flammability Rating: 0. None Reactivity Rating: 2. Moderate Contact Rating: 4. Extreme (Corrosive)

Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES SHIELD; LAB COAT APRON; VENT HOOD; PROPER GLOVES Storage Color Code: White (Corrosive)

Potential Health Effects

Inhalation: produces damaging effects on the mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract. Symptoms may include irritation of the nose and throat, and labored breathing. May cause lung edema, a medical emergency. Ingestion: Corrosive. Swallowing can cause severe burns of the mouth, throat, and stomach, leading to death. Can cause sore throat, vomiting, diarrhea. Circulatory collapse with clammy skin, weak and Rapid pulse, shallow respirations, and scanty urine may follow ingestion or skin contact. Circulatory shock is often the immediate cause of death. Skin Contact: Corrosive. Symptoms of redness, pain, and severe burn can occur. Circulatory collapse with clammy skin, weak and Rapid pulse, shallow respirations, and scanty urine may follow skin contact or ingestion. Circulatory shock is often the immediate cause of death. Eye Contact: Corrosive. Contact can cause blurred vision, redness, pain and severe tissue burns. Can cause blindness. Chronic Exposure: Long-term exposure to mist or vapors may cause damage to teeth. Chronic exposure to mists containing sulfuric acid is a cancer hazard.

First-Aid Measures

Fire: Concentrated material is a strong dehydrating agent. Reacts with organic materials and may cause ignition of finely divided materials on contact. Explosion: Contact with most metals causes formation of flammable and explosive hydrogen gas. Fire Extinguishing Media: Dry chemical, foam or carbon dioxide. Do not use water on material. However, water spray may be used to keep fire exposed containers cool. Special Information: In the event of a fire, wear full protective clothing and NIOSH-approved self-contained breathing apparatus with full facepiece operated in the pressure demand or other positive pressure mode. Structural firefighter’s protective clothing is ineffective for fires involving this material. Stay away from sealed containers.

Accidental Release Measures

Ventilate area of leak or spill. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment as specified in Section 8. Isolate hazard area. Keep unnecessary and unprotected personnel from entering. Contain and recover liquid when possible. Neutralize with alkaline material (soda ash, lime), then absorb with an inert material (e. g., vermiculite, dry sand, earth), and place in a chemical waste container. Do not use combustible materials, such as saw dust. Do not flush to sewer! US Regulations (CERCLA) require reporting spills and releases to soil, water and air in excess of reportable quantities. The toll free number for the US Coast Guard National Response Center is (800) 424-8802.

Handling and Storage

Store in a cool, dry, ventilated storage area with acid resistant floors and good drainage. Protect from physical damage. Keep out of direct sunlight and away from heat, water, and incompatible materials. Do not wash out container and use it for other purposes. When diluting, always add the acid to water; never add water to the acid. When opening metal containers, use non-sparking tools because of the possibility of hydrogen gas being present. Containers of this material may be hazardous when empty since they retain product residues (vapors, liquid); observe all warnings and precautions listed for the product.

Stability and Reactivity

Stability: Stable under ordinary conditions of use and storage. Concentrated solutions react violently with water, spattering and liberating heat. Hazardous Decomposition Products: Toxic fumes of oxides of sulfur when heated to decomposition. Will react with water or steam to produce toxic and corrosive fumes. Reacts with carbonates to generate carbon dioxide gas, and with cyanides and sulfides to form poisonous hydrogen cyanide and hydrogen sulfide respectively. Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur. Incompatibilities: Water, potassium chlorate, potassium perchlorate, potassium permanganate, sodium, lithium, bases, organic material, halogens, metal acetylides, oxides and hydrides, metals (yields hydrogen gas), strong oxidizing and reducing agents and many other reactive substances. Conditions to Avoid: Heat, moisture, incompatibles.

Although this chemical is extremely dangerous, proper handling of your sealed lead acid batteries, will keep you safe.

BU-201: How does the Lead Acid Battery Work?

Invented by the French physician Gaston Planté in 1859, lead acid was the first rechargeable battery for commercial use. Despite its advanced age, the lead chemistry continues to be in wide use today. There are good reasons for its popularity; lead acid is dependable and inexpensive on a cost-per-watt base. There are few other batteries that deliver bulk power as cheaply as lead acid, and this makes the battery cost-effective for automobiles, golf cars, forklifts, marine and uninterruptible power supplies (UPS).

The grid structure of the lead acid battery is made from a lead alloy. Pure lead is too soft and would not support itself, so small quantities of other metals are added to get the mechanical strength and improve electrical properties. The most common additives are antimony, calcium, tin and selenium. These batteries are often known as “lead-antimony” and “lead­calcium.”

battery, acid, meaning

Adding antimony and tin improves deep cycling but this increases water consumption and escalates the need to equalize. Calcium reduces self-discharge, but the positive lead-calcium plate has the side effect of growing due to grid oxidation when being over-charged. Modern lead acid batteries also make use of doping agents such as selenium, cadmium, tin and arsenic to lower the antimony and calcium content.

Lead acid is heavy and is less durable than nickel- and lithium-based systems when deep cycled. A full discharge causes strain and each discharge/charge cycle permanently robs the battery of a small amount of capacity. This loss is small while the battery is in good operating condition, but the fading increases once the performance drops to half the nominal capacity. This wear-down characteristic applies to all batteries in various degrees.

Depending on the depth of discharge, lead acid for deep-cycle applications provides 200 to 300 discharge/charge cycles. The primary reasons for its relatively short cycle life are grid corrosion on the positive electrode, depletion of the active material and expansion of the positive plates. This aging phenomenon is accelerated at elevated operating temperatures and when drawing high discharge currents. (See BU-804:How to Prolong Lead Acid Batteries)

Charging a lead acid battery is simple, but the correct voltage limits must be observed. Choosing a low voltage limit shelters the battery, but this produces poor performance and causes a buildup of sulfation on the negative plate. A high voltage limit improves performance but forms grid corrosion on the positive plate. While sulfation can be reversed if serviced in time, corrosion is permanent. (See BU-403: Charging Lead Acid)

Lead acid does not lend itself to fast charging and with most types, a full charge takes 14–16 hours. The battery must always be stored at full state-of-charge. Low charge causes sulfation, a condition that robs the battery of performance. Adding carbon on the negative electrode reduces this problem but this lowers the specific energy. (See BU-202: New Lead Acid Systems)

Lead acid has a moderate life span, but it is not subject to memory as nickel-based systems are, and the charge retention is best among rechargeable batteries. While NiCd loses approximately 40 percent of their stored energy in three months, lead acid self-discharges the same amount in one year. The lead acid battery works well at cold temperatures and is superior to lithium-ion when operating in subzero conditions. According to RWTH, Aachen, Germany (2018), the cost of the flooded lead acid is about 150 per kWh, one of the lowest in batteries.

Sealed Lead Acid

The first sealed, or maintenance-free, lead acid emerged in the mid-1970s. Engineers argued that the term “sealed lead acid” was a misnomer because no lead acid battery can be totally sealed. To control venting during stressful charge and Rapid discharge, valves have been added that release gases if pressure builds up. Rather than submerging the plates in a liquid, the electrolyte is impregnated into a moistened separator, a design that resembles nickel- and lithium-based systems. This enables operating the battery in any physical orientation without leakage.

The sealed battery contains less electrolyte than the flooded type, hence the term “acid-starved.” Perhaps the most significant advantage of sealed lead acid is the ability to combine oxygen and hydrogen to create water and prevent dry out during cycling. The recombination occurs at a moderate pressure of 0.14 bar (2psi). The valve serves as a safety vent if the gas buildup rises. Repeated venting should be avoided as this will lead to an eventual dry-out. According to RWTH, Aachen, Germany (2018), the cost of VRLA is about 260 per kWh.

Several types of sealed lead acid have emerged and the most common are gel, also known as valve-regulated lead acid (VRLA), and absorbent glass mat (AGM). The gel cell contains a silica type gel that suspends the electrolyte in a paste. Smaller packs with capacities of up to 30Ah are often called SLA (sealed lead acid). Packaged in a plastic container, these batteries are used for small UPS, emergency lighting and wheelchairs. Because of low price, dependable service and low maintenance, the SLA remains the preferred choice for healthcare in hospitals and retirement homes. The larger VRLA is used as power backup for cellular repeater towers, Internet hubs, banks, hospitals, airports and more.

The AGM suspends the electrolyte in a specially designed glass mat. This offers several advantages to lead acid systems, including faster charging and instant high load currents on demand. AGM works best as a mid-range battery with capacities of 30 to 100Ah and is less suited for large systems, such as UPS. Typical uses are starter batteries for motorcycles, start-stop function for micro-hybrid cars, as well as marine and RV that need some cycling.

With cycling and age, the capacity of AGM fades gradually; gel, on the other hand, has a dome shaped performance curve and stays in the high performance range longer but then drops suddenly towards the end of life. AGM is more expensive than flooded, but is cheaper than gel. (Gel would be too expensive for start/stop use in cars.)

Unlike the flooded, the sealed lead acid battery is designed with a low over-voltage potential to prohibit the battery from reaching its gas-generating potential during charge. Excess charging causes gassing, venting and subsequent water depletion and dry-out. Consequently, gel, and in part also AGM, cannot be charged to their full potential and the charge voltage limit must be set lower than that of a flooded. This also applies to the float charge on full charge. In respect to charging, the gel and AGM are no direct replacements for the flooded type. If no designated charger is available for AGM with lower voltage settings, disconnect the charger after 24 hours of charge. This prevents gassing due to a float voltage that is set too high. (See BU-403: Charging Lead Acid)

The optimum operating temperature for a VRLA battery is 25°C (77°F); every 8°C (15°F) rise above this temperature threshold cuts battery life in half. (See BU-806a: How Heat and Loading affect Battery Life) Lead acid batteries are rated at a 5-hour (0.2C) and 20-hour (0.05C) discharge rate. The battery performs best when discharged slowly; the capacity readings are substantially higher at a slower discharge than at the 1C-rate. Lead acid can, however, deliver high pulse currents of several C if done for only a few seconds. This makes the lead acid well suited as a starter battery, also known as starter-light-ignition (SLI). The high lead content and the sulfuric acid make lead acid environmentally unfriendly.

Lead acid batteries are commonly classified into three usages: Automotive (starter or SLI), motive power (traction or deep cycle) and stationary (UPS).

Starter Batteries

The starter battery is designed to crank an engine with a momentary high-power load lasting a second or so. For its size, the battery is able to deliver high current but it cannot be deep-cycled. Starter batteries are rated with Ah or RS (reserve capacity) to indicate energy storage capability, as well as CCA (cold cranking amps) to signify the current a battery can deliver at cold temperature. SAE J537 specifies 30 seconds of discharge at –18°C (0°F) at the rated CCA ampere without the battery voltage dropping below 7.2 volts. RC reflects the runtime in minutes at a steady discharge of 25. (SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers.) See also BU-902a: How to Measure CCA.

Starter batteries have a very low internal resistance that is achieved by adding extra plates for maximum surface area (Figure 1). The plates are thin and the lead is applied in a sponge-like form that has the appearance of fine foam, expanding the surface area further. Plate thickness, which is important for a deep-cycle battery is less important because the discharge is short and the battery is recharged while driving; the emphasis is on power rather than capacity.

Deep-cycle Battery

The deep-cycle battery is built to provide continuous power for wheelchairs, golf cars, forklifts and more. This battery is built for maximum capacity and a reasonably high cycle count. This is achieved by making the lead plates thick (Figure 2). Although the battery is designed for cycling, full discharges still induce stress and the cycle count relates to the depth-of-discharge (DoD). Deep-cycle batteries are marked in Ah or minutes of runtime. The capacity is typically rated as a 5-hour and 20-hour discharge.

A starter battery cannot be swapped with a deep-cycle battery or vice versa. While an inventive senior may be tempted to install a starter battery instead of the more expensive deep-cycle on his wheelchair to save money, the starter battery would not last because the thin sponge-like plates would quickly dissolve with repeated deep cycling.

There are combination starter/deep-cycle batteries available for trucks, buses, public safety and military vehicles, but these units are big and heavy. As a simple guideline, the heavier the battery is, the more lead it contains, and the longer it will last. Table 3 compares the typical life of starter and deep-cycle batteries when deep cycled.

How to clean and dispose of corroded batteries

Everyone has to deal with a leaky battery at some point. You open the battery compartment for a remote or other device you haven’t used in months only to find a crusty, chalky substance encrusted on the batteries and the surrounding area.

A leaky battery can cause skin irritation, so it needs careful handling. But why do batteries leak anyway? Can you recycle corroded batteries, and how can you clean battery corrosion when you find it?

Why do batteries leak?

Let’s get the most obvious question out of the way first: why do batteries leak? Alkaline batteries generate power through chemical reactions within the battery cell. These reactions create hydrogen gas, which is usually not a problem. If too much gas develops, the battery cell ruptures, releasing the white sticky substance we call battery acid.

Under regular use, an alkaline battery will not leak. Manufacturing defects can cause leakage, but by far, the most common reason for leaky batteries is a lack of use. When batteries sit in unused devices for long periods, hydrogen can build up in the battery cell until the pressure causes the battery’s insulating seals to breach. The gas is harmlessly released, but the rupture also provides an exit point for the battery cell’s chemical components.

What is Battery Acid?

Alkaline battery leakage is potassium hydroxide, and it’s an alkaline, not an acid. So why call it battery acid? The term comes from the sulphuric acid used in lead car batteries, which is much more toxic.

While you need to handle potassium hydroxide with care, the chemical is easy to neutralize, after which you can clean battery corrosion from your devices safely.

How to Avoid Leaky Batteries

Proper storage is the best way to prevent battery leakage. When batteries are stored loose they can come into contact with other batteries and metal items, causing power generation within the battery cell that leads to hydrogen build-up. The best way to store batteries is to keep them organized in a box like the Better Battery Company’s subscription box, where each battery is isolated in its own cozy compartment. You can also take the following steps to reduce the risk of battery leakage:

  • Alway use the same type and brand of battery for devices requiring multiple batteries. Mixing alkaline, recyclable, and lithium batteries — or even the same kind of battery from different brands — results in whichever battery is strongest discharging faster, increasing the possibility of battery leakage.
  • Remove batteries from any device you don’t use often.
  • Remove batteries from devices with AC adapters when the adapter is plugged in.
  • Avoid storing your batteries in areas of extreme heat and cold. Storing batteries in the refrigerator will not make them last longer. Instead, the cold reduces battery lifespan and increases the risk of leakage.
  • Do not put old batteries and new ones in the same device.

How to Dispose of Batteries that are Leaking

Leaking batteries are not safe to use, but you don’t want to throw them out. Too many batteries end up in landfills, where they leak their contents into the environment. Instead, put the leaky batteries in a plastic bag and drop them off at a recycling facility. For batteries greater than nine volts, you should put clear tape over the battery terminals to prevent the battery from generating heat, leading to fires.

Can you recycle corroded batteries?

Corroded, leaky batteries require special attention but can be recycled. The U.S. The Department of Transportation requires special packaging and handling requirements for corroded, leaky batteries. You can contact our recycling partner, Raw Materials Co. to help with advice on how to handle.

Defective and recalled batteries also require special handling and shipping requirements. Better Battery Company provides shipping services for batteries identified by the Consumer Product Safety Commission as defective and will replace such batteries at no cost.

How to Clean Battery Corrosion in Toys and Remotes

Knowing how to clean battery corrosion in remote controls, toys, and other devices helps you salvage electronics before battery leakage ruins them. To clean battery corrosion safely, you’ll need the following:

  • Rubber or latex gloves
  • Eye protection
  • Cotton swabs
  • An old toothbrush
  • Vinegar or lemon juice
  • Baking soda

Choose a well-ventilated area for cleaning. Put on gloves and eye protection to prevent irritation caused by contact with potassium hydroxide and take these steps:

  • Remove batteries and recycle them properly.
  • Dip cotton swabs or the toothbrush in vinegar or lemon juice.
  • Scrub the corrosion with the swab or toothbrush to remove as much as possible.
  • For remaining corrosion, mix a small amount of water with baking soda. Put this mixture on your swab or toothbrush and scrub again.
  • Use a damp cotton swab to wipe away residual baking soda.
  • Let the device dry completely before inserting new batteries.

If some of the battery leakage does make contact with your skin, flush the affected area with water.

Fortunately, most batteries never leak, especially if they’re packaged and stored correctly. If one should leak, though, now you know how to handle it!

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Measuring the density and specific gravity of battery acid in lead acid batteries

The term “battery acid” refers to the electrolyte used in batteries. For lead acid batteries this is sulfuric acid (H2SO4). Sulfuric acid is colorless, odorless, and strongly acidic.

Why measure the density / specific gravity of battery acid?

Knowing the specific gravity of the electrolyte in batteries gives insight into the level of charge. Due to chemical reactions during discharge, the density of the sulfuric acid electrolyte (or its specific gravity) decreases. Measuring the density of the battery acid therefore gives information about the concentration of H2SO4 and the charging status of the battery. Depending on the result, the operator knows whether the battery needs maintenance or needs to be exchanged. To detect and maintain the weakest cell(s) of the battery, a regular density check is mandatory.

Battery acid measuring methods

To check the specific gravity of the electrolyte, it is possible to use a hydrometer (also called an “aerometer”) or a digital density meter (also called a “digital hydrometer”).

Using a hydrometer

A lead acid battery hydrometer is a special type of hydrometer which looks like a syringe with a bulb. Inside the bulb there is a float which is calibrated for measuring the Specific Gravity (SG). To use the hydrometer, you suck some of the battery acid (H2SO4) out of the battery up into the bulb and read off the value indicated by the float floating in the sample.

Using a digital density meter

A digital density meter (sometimes called a digital hydrometer ) can be used to measure the specific gravity of the sulfuric acid electrolyte as long as the measuring cell withstands aggressive acids. The result is typically converted into the right temperature and displayed in the desired unit like SG (Specific Gravity) 80/80 on the digital display.

Density meters (or digital hydrometers) have some advantages over hydrometers: As well as being quicker and giving the result on a digital display already converted to the temperature, cleaning is simpler. Between measurements with a digital density meter cleaning of the cell is not required because the samples are similar, only a rinsing prior to the next measurement is performed. Density measurement on a density meter only requires handling of a small volume of 2 mL.

By following a few simple guidelines it is possible to ensure good density measurement results.

Table 1: Overview of battery acid measuring methods with pros and cons

  • Low price
  • Not very accurate
  • Error prone due to manually reading off the value
  • Breaks easily
  • Relatively large amount of samples has to be taken out of the battery
  • Time and skill are required to read off value accurately
  • Approx. 1 minute for measurement
  • Easy and safe filling with built in manual pump
  • Only 2 mL sample required
  • Automatic calculation of specific gravity (SG) from measured density due to integrated conversion tables
  • High accuracy
  • Relatively high price compared to hydrometers

Common units

The density of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) is measured and converted into specific gravity at either 70 °F to obtain SG 70/70 or at 80 °F to obtain SG 80/80.

What Causes Battery Terminal Corrosion (and How to Avoid It)?

Battery terminal corrosion is an all-too-common problem. But what causes it? And how can it be avoided? We’re taking a closer look at what you need to know about battery corrosion, avoiding it, and cleaning up when it strikes.

What Causes Battery Terminal Corrosion?

Corrosion is a problem that occurs with lead-acid batteries when the volatile chemicals or gases inside a battery escape and come into contact with the highly-conductive metal of the battery terminal. The batteries can release gases filled with hydrogen, sulfur, and acids that damage nearby battery terminals if not vented properly.

There are a wide variety of reasons this might happen. For example, an owner might add too much water during battery maintenance, causing battery acid to escape. Overcharging is another frequent culprit for corrosion, especially when the damage appears limited to the battery’s positive terminal. Generally speaking, anything that exposes your battery terminals to reactive materials (including bad weather) can lead to battery corrosion.

This corrosion is an outward sign of the chemical dangers of these batteries. If you see corrosion your batteries are emitting very dangerous gasses. Luckily, high-quality lithium batteries like our Battle Born line do not emit any gasses and will not corrode terminals. This is just one of the reasons our batteries are so much safer than old lead-acid technology.

What Happens If Battery Terminals Corrode?

Battery terminal corrosion generally impedes the flow of power from the battery to the device using it. This less-efficient power transfer means you’ll likely notice decreased power output from your batteries. In cases of extreme corrosion, the battery may not provide enough energy, meaning your device or vehicle may not start.

If you are attempting to draw a lot of current through corroded terminals they may also begin to overheat. This can damage cables and the batteries. This is because the corrosion increases resistance in the connections.

What Does Battery Corrosion Look Like?

Battery corrosion can appear in a few different ways. Most often, you’ll see a buildup of flaky or crumbly material around the battery terminal. This material is typically white, light blue, greenish, gray, or brown. The color will vary depending on the exact type of battery.

Does Battery Corrosion Mean a Bad Battery?

Not necessarily. Battery terminal corrosion can certainly signify that your battery isn’t operating correctly. This is often the case with older batteries beginning to fail. But in other cases, like several of the ones mentioned previously, user error may play a role.

Corrosion is a normal condition of many lead-acid batteries when used in deep cycling applications like RV, Boat, or off-grid power. This is because long discharges and recharges cause the release of gasses. Because of this lead-acid batteries are not a good choice for deep cycling applications. Lithium is a far superior, safer, and less dangerous choice for these uses.

Does Battery Corrosion Ruin Electronics?

Unfortunately, this can be the case. A little bit of leaking battery acid probably won’t require much other than a cleaning or, at worst, battery terminal replacement. However, major leaks can send the corrosive substances and gasses deep into your device, destroying sensitive electronics. Therefore, it’s crucial to prevent battery corrosion in expensive or especially delicate electronics.

If you are using lead-acid batteries, make sure they are well ventilated and not near electronic components.

How Do You Fix a Corroded Battery Terminal?

There are many different products out there that can remove battery terminal corrosion. You can often find them at auto part stores, online, and elsewhere. But many people instead opt for an at-home corrosion removal favorite that they can do themselves.

First, disconnect and remove the battery. Then cover your corroded terminals in baking soda. Next, pour some water over the battery terminals and let chemistry work its magic to remove the corrosive residue. In some cases, the corrosion damage may be so severe that you need to replace the terminal itself. In less severe cases, this at-home remedy can often do the trick.

Keep in mind that cleaning the terminals will not repair any damage that the gasses caused. If the gasses severely eat the metal, then the terminals may need to be replaced.

You can also slow battery corrosion by spraying a sticky oil on the battery terminals. Special products exist to slow corrosion. These products work but make a mess of the batteries and cover them in a thick greasy substance that will stain your clothes. These products work by coating the metals in an oil that does not react with the corrosive gasses from the batteries.

Avoid Battery Terminal Corrosion by Switching to Lithium

The simplest way to prevent battery corrosion is to use a type of battery that doesn’t corrode under any circumstances — lithium. This more modern battery technology comes with numerous benefits for those willing to make the switch.

No Dangerous Battery Acid Leaks

Many typical lead-acid batteries are designed to be opened or at least vented. They have to be in order for the chemical reactions to release gasses that are the results of charging. But lithium batteries are permanently sealed, eliminating the risk of harmful leaks. Barring serious damage, the chemicals that power your lithium battery will stay safely inside.

No Acidic Fumes

The important differences in battery chemistry between traditional batteries and lithium ones also mean there’s no need to vent fumes. Fumes can be dangerous and corrosive on their own, even when you don’t have battery terminal corrosion to contend with. The sealed nature of lithium batteries means you should never need to vent or release fumes.

No Maintenance

Maintenance is just part of life when using standard lead-acid batteries. You have to top them off every few weeks or months to ensure they continue to operate as expected. With a lithium-ion battery, there’s no maintenance required at any point in your ownership. Once you’ve installed the battery, you’re generally hands-off other than charging.

Many Benefits

Lithium batteries have so much more to offer than just protection from corrosion and no maintenance. They last substantially longer than traditional batteries, meaning more years between replacements. They’re also much lighter than comparable lead-acid batteries, allowing users to either cut weight or add battery capacity while maintaining the same weight. They also work well at most temperatures, and you can discharge them more fully, eliminating two major weaknesses of traditional batteries.

Say Goodbye to Battery Corrosion

Corrosion can seem a little scary at first. It’s normal to worry about your batteries and the things they power, not to mention the potential hazard of coming into contact with battery acid. But by keeping this information in mind, you should be able to avoid most battery terminal corrosion and know how to deal with it should it strike. You can even say goodbye to worries about battery corrosion for good by making the switch to powerful, modern lithium batteries.

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