Atv battery bolts
For many years, folks asked me: “Don’t you have a company logo?” And we really didn’t, as I just never took the time to come up with one…we just had “Earth Tools” written out in a blocky font, and that passed for a logo.
Finally, though, I decided to put some effort into it, and I hired my sister-in-law Trina Peiffer (my wife’s twin sister) to make a line drawing of the Earth Tools sign we have here at the shop. This sign is made out of a 4-foot length of Eastern Red Cedar log; the letters are carved with a chain saw.
I made this sign about 15 years ago (below is a photo). I figured this was a logo with some “meaning”…not just some arbitrary design. Hope you like it!
HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THROUGH ON OUR MAIN NUMBER ABOVE?TRY 502-484-5550 or 0704
The supply chain issues / delays caused by Covid are pretty much worked out now, BUT.- we STILL get VERY busy in the late Winter Spring, and assembling/shipping wait times increase, just because of the log-jam of Tractor / Implement orders coming in all at once at the last minute. So.- DON’T wait until the last minute to order! If you want equipment for this upcoming growing season, ORDER EARLY! Keep in mind that we ship orders on a first-paid, first-shipped basis. we do NOT offer expidited assembling/shipping of tractor implement orders for an extra charge. We appreciate your business and your patience, and we work as hard as we can to get orders out as fast as possible, WITHOUT cutting corners on the proper equipment setup, prep checkout that we are famous for.
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NEW: REGIONAL DELIVERY SERVICE!!
We are now offering a “regional” delivery service for tractor implement orders within a 400-road-mile radius of our location in Owenton KY. Earth Tools’ owner’s Father-in-law (Charles) will be doing the deliveries. Charges for this service will be a bit more than for shipping by truck freight (call for a quote to your specific location), but delivery will be with a pickup truck (and trailer, if needed) that can get to most any location – unlike a semi-truck. Also, scheduling of the delivery will be more flexible, to better meet your needs. “perks” of this service are that the equipment will be FULLY assembled, and Charlie will show you basic operation of the tractor. Minimum merchandise order for this service: 6500. Call for a delivery quote!
Why are new BCS tractors BLACK or SILVER?
Beginning in late 2017, the BCS factory started a new “paint scheme” for their tractors and implements: The tractors are just painted BLACK, and the BCS-branded implements are painted SILVER. (and in 2023, the tractor bodies started coming through SILVER as well) So, on the tractors, the only blue parts are now the plastic “beauty” shrouds for the handlebars.
Because the BCS factory in Italy produces 3 brands of walk-behind tractors on the same assembly line: BCS, Ferrari, and Pasquali (BCS purchased these other 2 companies in the 1990s…and no, this is NOT the automotive “Ferrari!”). Historically, they had different paint-lines for each tractor and implement line (Blue for BCS, Green for Ferrari, and Yellow for Pasquali)…but sometime in 2017, they decided to optimize efficiency by painting all the tractors and implements “neutral” colors and just letting the plastic shrouds and decals delineate what brand tractor it would be. Hence, non-blue BCS tractors started appearing in the USA in early 2018. (We have told BCS that we think this is a bad idea. the blue was a color most people associated with BCS, and now, if the plastic beauty shrouds are discarded or lost, there is no color for brand recognition, and that would hurt them more in the long run than the few bucks a tractor they’re saving by not having separate paint lines in their factory. We’ll see if they ever bring the Blue back. )
Other Tractor Accessories
This accessory hitches to the tractor tow hitch (located just above the PTO mounting on all current models we offer) and terminates in a 1 1/8” solid steel rod protruding away from the tractor, with a hole drilled left-to-right through the rod. This is the accessory used by BCS or Grillo to hook a trailer behind the tractor: the Italian-made trailers have a tongue made out of essentially a pipe with a hole drilled through left-to-right close to the end; this tow coupler simply slides into the pipe/tongue and is locked in place by a pin slid through the holes.
The holes on the tongue are typically either oversized or “ovalized” a bit to allow the coupler to “twist” in the pipe/tongue somewhat, and provide some oscillation so that all 4 wheels of the tractor/trailer stay evenly on the ground even on uneven terrain. Note that the tow hitch/tow coupler interface is a double clevis, meaning when the two are hooked together it operates like a door hinge: pivoting side-to-side but not up and down. This is important, because with a walk-behind tractor, you only have one axle on the tractor; whatever implement is attached to the tractor provides the needed stability to keep the engine up off the ground…this double-clevis type hitch provides just this, allowing the tractor/implement to steer by pivoting on the axis of the vertical pin attaching the tow coupler to the tractor hitch, and not allowing the engine to flop down on the ground whenever the operator lets go of the handlebars!
This is why a ball-type hitch (like a truck or car has) WILL NOT work on a walk-behind tractor: There is no vertical stabilization provided by a ball-hitch. See this Video: Why a “Ball-hitch” will NOT work on a walk-behind tractor
The GOOD news is that this tow coupler will slide nicely inside of a piece of 1 ¼” steel water pipe. So, by affixing a short length of such pipe to the tongue of any implement designed for use behind a lawn garden tractor or ATV will allow that implement to be pulled behind your walk-behind tractor. (The section of pipe can be attached to the the tongue of your implement by bolting, welding or clamping…actually we find that 1 ½” muffler pipe clamps usually work very well for attaching a length of this pipe to an implement tongue. You will have to drill one ½” hole through the pipe, for the locking-pin that will hold the tow coupler in place in the pipe). So, Lawn rollers, aerators, seeders, spreaders, carts can all be adapted…we even have two customers who adapted old horse-drawn dump-type hayrakes to be pulled by their walk-behind tractors!
4 types: so specify what tractor it needs to fit:
- Item 922.59500: Fits BCS 718, 722, 725, 732, 735, 739: MSRP: 9590
- Item 922.47720: Fits BCS 737, 749, 750, 830, 850, 852, 853, 946, 948, SOME 605 (if 605 is equipped with tow hitch) MSRP: 9590
- Item 9F4212: Fits Grillo G85. G110: MSRP: 9085
- Item 9F4712: Fits Grillo G131: MSRP: 9085
Note: The earliest model BCS 605 tractors DO NOT have a clevis hitch mounted on the tractor to accept the Tow Coupler; to use a tow coupler on these tractors use the Tow Hitch below and the 922.59500 tow coupler above.
GRASS / DEBRIS SCREEN
Keeps debris (such as cut grass, weed seeds, chaff, etc.) from getting sucked into the engine cooling-air system and stopping up the cylinder cooling fins. Mounts over recoil starter housing, where the cooling air is sucked into all small engines. If you have a rotary mower (lawn, flail or brush mower) on your Walk-behind tractor, the grass is cut up into small enough pieces that it can easily get sucked up into your engine cooling-air intake…and if you DON’T take the cooling shrouds off the engine 2 or 3 times a year to clean out the accumulated debris, you run the risk of overheating the engine, causing a head gasket to blow (or worse). If you have this screen, grass debris stops at the screen. Since when you are mowing, you are directly behind the engine, you can easily reach down occasionally and brush it off with your hand…like cleaning a lint screen in a dryer.
This is one of our most important and best-selling accessories, and the crazy thing is: None of the engine manufacturers typically selling in the USA offer this type of screen for their horizontal (side) shaft engines; we purchase it from a European engine manufacturer (Lombardini) and adapt it to the engines it can be made to fit. This item is an Earth Tools Exclusive … any other dealer who offers it purchases it from us.
Click here for a video on the debris screen
- Fits Honda GX340 GX390 (11 13hp) and Yamaha MZ300, MX300, MX360 MX400 engines (Item 6927.358H) MSRP: 8579
- Fits Kohler CH440 14hp engine (Item 6927.358K) MSRP: 8984
- fits 8, 11 12hp Kohler/Lombardini diesel engines (models KD350, 400, 420, 440) (Item 6927.358D) MSRP: 9589.80
This accessory is required to pull a utility trailer with the Grillo models G85, G85d, G107 and G110. It will also fit to older BCS tractor models that did not come equipped with a built-in tow hitch from the factory: These would be the older BCS models 710, 715, 716, 720 and 730 and some early 605s (Also applicable to the current BCS 710). It attaches to the PTO mounting, and the 922.59500 tow coupler above will hook up to it. (We also have it a configurations of the tow hitch that will insert into the current BCS and Grillo quick-couplings) This is the same item we sell as the “drawbar” for the Aldo Biagioli implements.
- Bolt-on type mount (Item BP80) MSRP: 4945
- for CURRENT BCS Quick-coupling (Item BP80-BQ) MSRP: 6965
- for Grillo G85. G107 Quick-coupling (Item BP80-GR-Q5) MSRP: 6965
- for Grillo G110 quick-coupling: (Item BP80-GR-G110) MSRP: 6965
When using a walk-behind tractor with a heavy rear-mount implement, extra weight can be added to the front (engine) bumper to help offset the extra weight of the heavy implement. (Examples of these implements would be Power Harrows, Tillers with “Depth-Roller” Systems attached, Spaders, Stoneburier tillers, etc.) Below are several options, based on tractor type:
J-Bolt kit. This is the least-cost option for BCS tractors with tubular-steel bumpers (does not work well on Grillo bumpers due to interference from the “skid” plate made into the Grillo bumpers). It allows the operator to clamp any weight/weights with at least a ½” diameter hole onto the front of the engine bumper. (The most popular weights for this are 1” center hole “barbell” weight plates, as pictured, which are available virtually anywhere.) Maximum recommended total weight is 60 lbs., can consist of anywhere from one to 4 plates of varying weights. (That is, the bolt is long enough to accommodate up to 4 plates…however, if you are just using one or two plates, and the “extra” bolt sticks out too far and gets in the way, it can be cut shorter with a hacksaw.) Comes on and off the bumper easily, with just one nut. (KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE WEIGHTS!! Weight plates available locally, new or used).
For Grillo (and some BCS) tractors with DIESEL engines: the bumpers on many diesels already have a flat plate with extra mounting holes in the front, so 1” center-hole Barbell-type weight plates can be easily bolted onto them using a bolt, nut and large washers. 60 lbs. max. recommended weight on the diesel bumpers.
J-bolt holding 2 – 25 lb. weight-plates to a BCS bumper
“Suitcase” style weights. This weight system fits all current BCS and Grillo tractors with tubular steel bumpers. It features J-type bolts with nuts that securely clamp the weight in place on the tubular bumper bar. Weighs 25 lbs, and the “J-bolts” are long enough to accommodate an additional 25 lb. plate, for a total weight of 50 lbs. if needed. NOTE: On BCS “PowerSafe” models (739, 749, 750, 770), the decorative blue plastic piece must be removed from the engine bumper to accommodate this type of weight. (if you are purchasing a new PowerSafe tractor from us with this type of weight, we remove the plastic piece from the bumper here to save you the trouble)
Top left right: Suitcase weight Additional plateheld onto BCS 749 bumper by included J-bolts and nuts Bottom: Single weight mounted to Grillo G110 bumper(above “factory” 18-pound weight that is inculded with G110)
- Item ET-FRTWT: Fits all BCS and Grillo walking tractors with tubular steel bumpers: MSRP: 7569
- Item ET-FRTWT-ADD: Adds additional 25 lb plate to the front of the above weight: MSRP: 4946
IMPORTANT NOTE: Any bumper-mounted weight system must be REMOVED if the tractor is hauled on a truck or trailer, as the “bouncing up and down” of the machine while being hauled can lead to the extra weight on the bumper actually bending the bumper mount (especially on BCS bumpers).
Factory-made Front weight kit for BCS tractor model 750. (no photo) This kit is the “factory-made” option for attaching engine-side weight to the BCS 750 tractor, it mounts to brackets already provided on the 750 on the front/top of the transmission housing, right behind the engine. It consists of 2 weights (one for each side of the tractor) totaling 76 lbs., but it is less effective than weights mounted to the engine bumper, since the bumper is further from the “fulcrum point” of the tractor (the axle). This kit is very nicely made and attaches/detaches relatively quickly with 6 bolts (provided), but it is pricey. Most folks will want to go with one of the options above, unless you just want everything “BCS original”.
CATALYTIC-CONVERTER MUFFLER OPTION for Honda GX340 or GX390 engines
Manufactured in Canada by NETT Technologies, this optional muffler system is great for folks working in greenhouses high-tunnels who have to breathe in some of what the engine puts out (or if you just want to reduce atmospheric emissions, period!). Utilizes a tri-metalic catalyst technology to reduce Carbon Monoxide (CO) by up to 98% and Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) and Hydrocarbons (HC) by up to 95%. Engineered to be as quiet as the original muffler, and also roughly the same physical size as the original.
If you purchase this option with a new tractor, we will install it for free. If you are purchasing it for installation on a tractor you already have, installation is fast easy with just a few bolts. Currently stocked to fit Honda GX340 and GX390 engines; can be special-ordered to fit some other engines by request.
- Manufactured by NETT Technologies
- Item NETT CC GX3: MSRP: 519Call for Quote
We now offer an Hour-Meter for tractors equipped with gas engines. Allows you pre-program service intervals into it for oil changes, etc. This unit also can function as a tachometer, but due to the sensitivity of the lead wire and the amount of this wire that is near metal on the tractor, the tachometer function may not be accurate. (The hour-meter function works fine, though!) Actual appearance may vary from photo. NOTE: There are many tach/hour-meter units on the market…the one we currently supply has a replaceable battery, which most do not.
- Fits all gas engines
- Installation labor included on new tractor
- Item HOURMETER-GAS: MSRP: 39.9536
BATTERY “MAINTAINER” TRICKLE-CHARGER
The most common problem with electric-start equipment is that when is sits around for several months, the batteries go dead (particularly on equipment with small batteries, that are only used seasonally…lawn garden equipment, motorcycles, etc.). However, this trouble can be avoided by trickle-charging the battery during its “off” season; the continuous low charge keeps the plates in the batteries from oxidizing, and will actually increase battery life significantly. This unit will work on any 12-volt battery, and has built-in circuitry that prevents overcharging…you can hook it up, plug it into any standard 110V electrical outlet, and forget about it for months, and your battery is always ready to go when you are. This unit sells retail for 39.95, but when purchased WITH an electric-start walk-behind tractor, we offer it for 30.
- fits all 12 volt batteries
- Item ET BTRYCHRGR: MSRP: 39.9538 (or 30 with electric start tractor purchase)
For years, customers have asked us: “Do you have ramps I can use to get my walk-behind tractor in out of my truck/van?” Well, the answer is finally YES! We now offer these American-made, steel folding ramps that are rated at 1200 lbs. load limit per pair. Contoured upper portion helps get equipment in out of vehicle safely without the ramps wanting to fall off the tailgate.
Ramps have “punched hole” raised traction knobs so tires (and your shoes!) can get a good grip going up or down, and smaller caster-type wheels will not fall into the big “gaps” that rung-style ramps have. The folding feature allows these ramps to fit into smaller spaces for storage. Full length is 84”, folded length 63.5”. Weight: 58 lbs. for the set.
- Folding Steel Ramps, made in Ohio
- 1200 lb. capacity for pair
- Manufactured by Ohio Steel
- Item OS 10-84C: MSRP: 159145
EARTH TOOLS, Inc. 1525 Kays Branch Road Owenton, KY 40359
(502) 484-3988 tel. (502) 237-1026 fax.
NOTE REGARDING HOLIDAY CLOSINGS :
Annual Winter vacation: closed from Christmas Eve until the first Business Day of New Year (in 2024, re-opening Jan 2nd).
Also closed Martin Luther King day, Memorial Day, USA Independence Day (July 4th), Labor Day and the Thursday and Friday of Thanksgiving in Nov. (USA).
Kayo ATV Problems (Causes and FIXES!)
The Kayo brand is slowly gaining more and more traction and familiarity among consumers in the ATV industry.
Initially focused on dirt bikes and pit bikes, they’ve grown their offering of all terrain vehicles to nine different models between the youth and adult ATV sectors.
Though not considered as quality as the more established models from the likes of the Yamahas, Hondas, and Kawasakis of the ATV world, Kayo does offer a number of cheaper alternatives that still provide much of the same functionality as the more popular models.
While many owners of a Kayo ATV offer overly positive feedback on their machines, it would seem that many of the models are also affected by a number of common Kayo ATV problems.
Kayo ATV Problems
The most common Kayo ATV problems are a defective carburetor, lack of speed and power, starting trouble, clutch issues, and the chain popping off.
This guide will detail the symptoms of these issues, what causes them, and proven ways to troubleshoot them in order to have your quad running right.
The stock carburetor is undoubtedly the weakest link in Kayo ATVs. These carburetors are usually the culprit of some recurring issues with these four wheelers including hard starting, stalling, rough idling, and poor acceleration. Fortunately, there are some ways to overcome the symptoms of the defective carburetor.
Upgrade the Carburetor
Most owners go with the easiest solution to the issue with the stock carburetor, which is simply to replace it with an upgraded unit. There are a number of different replacement carbs available online for purchase depending on the model, with two of the most recommended being the Nibbi 26mm carburetor and the PZ19 ATV carburetor. While these work for most of the Kayo ATVs, you’ll need to match the correct sized carb with the fit of your specific model.
If experiencing any of the issues of the faulty carburetor listed above, installing an upgraded unit should be the solution to overcoming them.
Adjust the Idle on The Carburetor
If not replacing the stock carburetor, the idle will need to be adjusted in order to have your machine running the way it is intended to. To do this, locate the idle adjustment screw on the right side of the quad. This adjustment screw is located within a brass fitting and covered by a black rubber cap that fits over top.
Pop out the rubber cap to expose the flathead adjustment screw within the brass fitting. You can completely remove the brass fitting using a pair of pliers to gain better access to the screw if need be. Using a small flathead screwdriver, back the adjustment screw out a couple of turns to loosen it. Reinstall the brass fitting.
You may need to adjust the idle a few times until you find the proper setting, but simply loosening this adjustment screw should help alleviate the issues caused by the defective stock carburetor.
Lack of Speed and Power
Kayo offers five different youth ATV models. Most of them do not have much low end power out of the box, mainly as a safety precaution. Many owners are disappointed to find that their quads will barely make it up low grade hills even with small children driving.
This issue can usually be fixed by simply adjusting the throttle limiter, but in more extreme cases by replacing the factory sprockets to provide more power.
Adjust the Throttle Limiter
The easiest way to increase the speed, acceleration and power in Kayo four wheelers is to adjust the throttle limiter that restricts all of this initially. On the back of the throttle box of these ATVs, there is an adjustable bull nose screw. This is your throttle limiter, and it comes fully tightened to start.
To adjust the throttle stop, unscrew it counter clockwise. You may need to use pliers to do this. The more you unscrew this, the more play the throttle will have, which will give you the full range of speed, acceleration, and power that this machine is meant to have. Once you’ve unscrewed this to a satisfactory position, tighten the nut to hold it in place.
Once loosened, these throttle screws have a tendency to completely fall out at some point. Many owners have resorted to replacing the bull nose screw with a larger screw to ensure it stays in place and throttle adjustments can continue to be made.
Replacing the Sprockets
A common process for adjusting speed and power in machines with chains, such as ATVs and motorcycles, is to replace the front and rear sprockets. But there is a tradeoff among top speed and acceleration with this process.
Making a change to a smaller rear sprocket and bigger front sprocket will increase the top speed of the vehicle, but decrease the acceleration. Conversely, switching to a bigger rear sprocket and smaller front sprocket will increase the acceleration of the vehicle, but decrease the top speed.
In the case of Kayo ATVs experiencing power issues even after adjusting the throttle limiter, owners may want to increase the acceleration by replacing the front sprocket with a smaller one. Many owners have had success moving to a twelve-tooth or ten-tooth sprocket.
When doing this, you likely don’t need to replace the rear sprocket as it is more complicated than replacing the front sprocket, and simply replacing the front one should give the machine enough added power to overcome this issue. By making this adjustment, your kids should have no problem making it up hills and doing some light off-roading. And the effect on the top end speed won’t be enough that they can’t still open it up for a thrill when they want.
Another common Kayo ATV problem is starting trouble. These four wheelers are notorious for hard starting, especially during the colder months.
Many times they may just need to warm up for a few minutes. This hard starting is generally caused by a defective carburetor, so taking the steps to fix that issue as mentioned previously should help here. Running ethanol free gas should assist in minimizing hard starting as well.
If your Kayo engine won’t start at all, you should start by inspecting three components that may easily solve the problem.
- Ensure the safety tether is fully engaged
- Ensure the red kill switch button on the left handle bar is pressed all the way in
- Give the ignition switch a wiggle and check that the wires connecting it
If your engine still shows no sign of life after checking these three areas, you likely have an issue with one of the following:
Start by inspecting the battery terminals. Ensure they are free of any debris or corrosion, and clean them even if they don’t seem to need it.
You should also check the ground wires that connect to the battery. A loose connection is the cause of many no-start issues and is an easy fix should this be your issue.
The stock batteries in Kayo ATVs have a tendency to drain rather quickly. If your ATV won’t start, test the battery to ensure it is getting the intended 12 volts. If not, you can try recharging it.
Connecting the battery to a battery tender when the machine is not in use should help to prolong the life of the stock battery.
Another common cause of starting issues with Kayo four wheelers has to do with the intake and exhaust valves.
Many times these valves will tighten so much that they cause compression loss, but they can loosen too much as well. Both will affect your valve clearance, which can lead to your ATV not starting if not maintained at the proper levels.
Check the valve clearances and make sure they are set at the proper clearances listed in the owner’s manual. Make the proper adjustments if not.
If your spark plug is fouled, it will not create a spark properly and your ATV won’t start.
Check the ensure the spark plug tip does not appear burnt, which would indicate fouling. If it appears fouled, this is likely the culprit of a no-start issue and the spark plug should be replaced with a high quality iridium spark plug.
Kayo ATVs make use of a wet clutch, meaning the clutch is lubricated with engine oil and cooled that way.
If you notice when you initially rev your four wheeler it accelerates slower than it should until eventually catching and taking off, this is a sign the wet clutch may be worn out and slipping.
You may also hear a grinding noise when revving your machine if the clutch is close to failure.
The wet clutch may become worn out and begin to fail for a couple of different reasons.
Constant stop and go revving, as inexperienced young riders may tend to do, can wear the clutch down over time.
Additionally, using regular motor oil and not an oil approved for wet clutches will lead to failure of the clutch before long. Oil made specifically for ATVs or UTVs should suffice, but be sure it is labeled as JASO MA or MA2.
Chain Popping Off
The stock chain has a tendency to pop off the sprockets as it is generally installed a tad to loose. This may occur repeatedly when hitting bumps or riding in rough terrain.
Kayo ATV owners can overcome this issue by adjusting their rear axle to tighten the chain.
To do this, loosen the bolt that holds the chain cover in place and remove the chain cover. Next, loosen the the bolts and jam nuts that hold the rear axle in place.
After loosening these, the axle can be adjusted by pulling it back towards the rear of the machine. Doing this should tighten the chain by creating more space between the front and rear sprockets.
Once satisfied with position of the axle and tightness of the chain, retighten the bolts and ham nuts that lock it in place and reinstall the chain cover.
In summary, the most common Kayo ATV problems are a defective carburetor, lack of speed and power, starting trouble, clutch issues, and the chain popping off. Fortunately, most of these issues are minor and can be overcome fairly easily.
All things considered, Kayo’s line of ATVs make a solid alternative for folks who want a quad that offers basic off-road capabilities but who don’t want to pay top dollar for one of the more popular models.
That said, owners of these machines will need to be mechanically inclined as there will likely be a need for some slight troubleshooting and ongoing maintenance to keep them in top shape.
The Best Battery Disconnect Switches
For those who have recreational vehicles that are only occasionally used, the most common problem we encounter is having an empty battery after storage, mostly caused by residual power loss. The best way to prevent this is by isolating the battery from the rest of the system.
This is done by removing the negative port on our vehicle every time we park it. However, that is a tedious task – imaging popping the hood and then using a wrench to take it off all the time. An excellent solution to this is installing the best battery disconnect switch for your vehicle.
Today, I’m going to share my experience with 12 disconnect switches and my take on them. I’ll also include a short buyer’s guide and answer your most frequently asked questions. Let’s get on to it!
GAMA Electronics BS200
|Material||Brass, Zinc Alloy|
- Best Battery Disconnect Switch Reviews
- 1. Ampper Am-CBS01 Power Cut Switch
- 2. GAMA Electronics BS200 Disconnect Switch
- 3. Ampper Am-CBSKB01 Disconnect Switch
- 4. Ampper Am-CBS31 Disconnect Switch
- 5. Fastronix 303-001 Battery Disconnect Switch
- 6. Stinger SGP38 Battery Isolator and Relay
- 7. Zoostliss PF-016Z Battery Kill Switch
- 8. Spurtar KC-150122 Disconnect Switch
- 9. Big-Autoparts 6276 Disconnect Switch
- 10. QuickCar Racing 55-010 Disconnect Switch
- 11. KTNNKG ZA-P1GM-DYPF Disconnect Switch
- 12. Audew 12V-48V Disconnect Switch
Best Battery Disconnect Switch Reviews
Ampper Am-CBS01 Power Cut Switch
The Ampper Am-CBS01 Disconnect Switch is an easy-to-install rotary switch, rated up to 275 amps at 12 volts DC. It can take up to 48 volts DC, but at a less ampere rating. Furthermore, you can use this device as a standalone disconnect switch or as a master switch locked together with other power controllers.
With this product installed in my vehicle, I no longer have to go to the battery unit to disconnect it physically when placing it on long-term storage. It’s very convenient knowing that when I want to use my boat again, I know that its battery has been preserved and that it will start just by rotating this switch on the control panel.
I have an excellent first impression with this switch. When I first received this battery master disconnect switch, I immediately noticed its sturdy and high-quality ABS plastic material casing. There’s nothing flimsy about it, and I know that it won’t break even after many years. I also like that they included rear cover insulators, ensuring that moisture won’t creep inside it and prevent shorts and other electrical faults.
I’m also glad that they included everything needed to install this switch – of course, I still had to have my wrench, screwdriver, and other essential tools, but that’s about it. Upon further inspection, I realized that I could also install this in my RV and other cars. Amazing!
However, if there’s one thing I don’t like about it, it will be the lack of an auditory click to confirm that the battery is connected. This sometimes gives me second thoughts if it’s already switched on or if I need to turn it a bit more.
- Rated up to 275 amps for a 12-volt DC system
- Can be used either as a standalone or as a master switch
- Easy to install and simple to use
- Made with high-quality ABS plastic material
- Comes with complete parts for installation
This switch is an excellent choice if your vehicle utilizes a 12- 48 volt DC electrical system. It opens the circuit and isolates the battery from your electrical system – thereby extending its life when the vehicle is not in use.
GAMA Electronics BS200 Disconnect Switch
The GAMA Electronics Top Post Disconnect Switch is a knob-style disconnect switch directly attached to your battery’s terminal. It is straightforward and easy to install and use. By simply turning the knob, it will completely isolate the battery from your system.
It can take up to 200 amps of continuous load, so I know that it will work with most automotive and vehicular electrical systems. This allows me to install it on my boat, my RV, my off-roader, and even my daily driver car.
I really like this product’s compact design. Its small form allows me to install it even in the tiniest of machines, like my friend’s micro motorcycle. I am sure that I won’t need to modify or improvise anything to install this in a vehicle.
Furthermore, I can remove the knob switch, hide it, or take it with me for anti-theft purposes. This feature helps me a lot in safeguarding my vehicle wherever I leave it. I also use this when I’m working on my car, giving me the confidence that I won’t get grounded when I’m tinkering with it.
The only downside to this kind of switch is that it goes directly to your battery. It’s a bit inconvenient because you have to pop the hood to turn this switch on or off every time.
- Turning the knob isolates the battery from the system completely
- Can take up to 200 amps of continuous load
- Compatible with most vehicles, including boats, RVs, off-roaders, and more
- Very easy to install
- Knob switch can be removed and hidden for added security
If you’re looking for a budget-friendly switch, this one of the best battery disconnect switch is for you. It’s simple to use, easy to install, and can also be used for security. This is the most economical option in the market available.
Ampper Am-CBSKB01 Disconnect Switch
The Ampper Top Post Knife Blade Disconnect switch is a simple, easy-to-install battery isolator switch. It’s rated 12 to 24 volts DC, with a maximum of 200 amps continuous and 600 amps momentary current – making it compatible with most cars.
What I like best about this device is its simple solution to isolate the battery – just lift the knife blade switch, and you’re done! Many of my friends and I would agree that the simplest solutions are often the best ones.
However, even if it is just as a simple mechanism, it can be used independently or as a master switch in tandem with other electrical devices. This gives me the flexibility to install it directly on my battery or as a part of the main power panel.
I also appreciate the quality of material used on the switch – it’s made from heavy-duty brass and copper. Not only does it resist corrosion well and is an efficient conductor, but it’s also durable and will last as long as I’d need it to.
This is the easiest battery disconnect switch install that I’ve ever made – all I had to do was to slip off the negative lead on the post, wrench this switch in place, and then tighten the negative port on this switch. Done!
Despite the copper and brass material used for connecting the battery, the knife blade itself is only held by an aluminum rivet. While it might not be a problem when the switch is in a fixed state (either on or off), you should be careful when using it because you might break the rivet.
- Maximum rating of 600 amps at 12 volts DC
- Compatible with most vehicles
- Can be used independently or as part of a power panel
- Made with high-quality brass and copper
- Simple and straightforward to install and use
If you want a simple, no-frills, 12 volt battery disconnect switch, then this is the product for you. It’s easy to install, straightforward to use, and just works. What more can you ask for?
Ampper Am-CBS31 Disconnect Switch
The Ampper side post battery disconnect switch is another excellent example of simple battery isolation switches. It installs quickly and works simply by physically cutting off the battery from the vehicle’s electrical system. This preserves the battery over long storage periods and ensures that it’s ready when needed.
What I like best about this product is that I only need to have a wrench to install it – no other tools necessary. It’s perfect for cars, trucks, and other machines that have side-mounted battery terminals.
Using this is also pretty simple – just turn the know until it tightens slightly to close the circuit and make a connection. To cut off the power, just loosen it a couple of turns, and the battery is physically disconnected from the system. For added security, you can actually take the knob with you. Just don’t lose it!
I am very impressed with the build quality– it’s made from solid, durable brass. It’s actually difficult to bend, and I feel as if it will last the lifetime of my vehicle. Furthermore, the company was able to create this at a very reasonable price.
One thing, though – I have encountered some issues in which the supplied bolts were either too short or too long. While it was no issue for a handyman like me, it could be a problem if you don’t have access to a metal grinder to cut the bolts to size.
- Preserves battery levels during storage
- Easy to install – only a wrench is required
- Simple turning action to connect and disengage power
- Solidly built, made from durable and corrosion-resistant brass
- Comes at a very reasonable price
If you need a battery isolating switch with a side post design, this easy-to-install equipment is the right choice. Its excellent quality and reasonable price hit the sweet spot for switches.
Fastronix 303-001 Battery Disconnect Switch
This Fastronix Solutions High Current Master Battery Disconnect Switch is a simple, straightforward rotary type battery shut off switch. With a single twist, it will physically disconnect the battery, open the electrical circuit, and cut off the power.
When I bought my first motorhome, a good friend suggested installing an RV battery disconnect switch to preserve power and keep my batteries healthy when it’s stored. He recommended this brand because this is what he also used for his RV.
What I like best about this product is, although it’s rated at 180 amps for continuous duty. Its capacity immensely increases to up to 1,000 amps for intermittent power. This makes sure that the item will not fail even when the system experiences an electrical surge.
The switch’s handle is spring-loaded to prevent accidental movement, whether on or off. This gives me confidence that I won’t unexpectedly lose power while I’m on the freeway. It also provides a solid click when turned on to know that I’ve successfully powered-up the system.
The panel faceplate is clearly labeled with off and on positions so that even my five-year-old son can operate it. They also included 3/8” brass studs with nuts and locking washers to ensure that the switch is snugly secured to your power panel and the wiring inside won’t come loose as I travel.
I really appreciate Fastronix for allowing their switch to be mounted for panels from a quarter to five-eighths of an inch. This enables me to install it in different places – like on my instrument panel or near the engine cover.
I did have some issues a couple of times, though. Some switches I ordered didn’t work when I received them. I returned it to the manufacturer and had it replaced, but it did delay my installation for a couple of days.
- Straightforward use with clear faceplate markings
- Can handle up to 1,000 amps current
- Spring-loaded handle prevents accidental switching
- Included brass studs, nuts, and locking washers for secure fitting
- Can be mounted on panels from 1/4” to 5/8” thick
This product is easy and straightforward to use, so much so that even a child can operate it. Its high-capacity will also ensure that it will last the life of your vehicle. If you need a heavy-duty switch, this one’s for you.
Stinger SGP38 Battery Isolator and Relay
The Stinger Battery Isolator and Relay is a reliable device designed for use with dual batteries. This is excellent for marine or RV systems, which employs one battery to operate the engine and another for the indoor electricity.
And although it is not a waterproof battery disconnect switch, its water-resistant black phenolic plastic case makes it perfect for boats and other bigger marine vehicles. than that, this device is guaranteed to be compatible with multiple types of alternators, allowing you to install it practically anywhere.
By connecting the relay when the engine alternator is turning, you can charge the battery as you use it. Once the ignition is off, the secondary battery system will remain separate from the primary electrical circuit, thereby protecting it from unnecessary power drain.
I’m not entirely sure if this is available at Autozone since I bought mine online. Still, whenever I’m purchasing or recommending a battery isolator to my friends, I always go for this brand because of the reliability it has offered to me.
If there’s one thing that I don’t like about it – it’s the manual. The included instructions barely helped me, and I had to resort to asking other professionals for their second opinion. If you’re going to install this DIY, be sure to check other sources first just so you don’t mess anything up.
- Designed for dual-battery systems
- Water-resistant case makes it an excellent choice for marine vehicles
- Compatible with multiple types of alternators
- Separates the secondary battery from the primary circuit
- Reliable device and works effectively since installation
This is an excellent marine battery disconnect switch, especially for boats and other vehicles that run on dual-batteries. It allows the alternator to charge both of your batteries but isolates it from the primary circuit when the ignition is off, thereby preserving its life.
Zoostliss PF-016Z Battery Kill Switch
The Zoostliss Battery Kill Switch Isolator is primarily designed as an anti-theft security device. Its small form makes it difficult to find unless you know where it is located. It also requires a unique key to operate. This key and switch mechanism makes it the best battery kill switch for panel installation.
The included spare key allows me and my wife to have access to the vehicle. Since my car comes with two keys, I simply include the Zoostliss key in each respective keychain. So whether my wife or I drive the car, we both can lock its battery when we park it.
One thing that I really appreciate about the switch is its waterproof casing and cover. I also installed this in my boat, so even if the panel gets a bit of spray in rough seas or some rain when parked at the pier, I know that it wouldn’t damage this isolator.
Furthermore, installing this device was a breeze – I didn’t have to use any special tools, and it took me only about an hour to set up.
My only concern was that I didn’t have power a couple of times, even with the switch turned on. It might’ve been a case of a loose internal connection because it worked again after some turns. It’s something that you should check every now and then to make sure that you don’t encounter any problems on your trip.
- Key and switch anti-theft device
- Small form factor makes it difficult to find
- Included two keys for multiple users
- Comes in a waterproof casing with an additional cover
- Quick and easy installation
If you’re looking for automobile and marine battery disconnect switches, then I’d highly recommend this product to you. Its small form makes it perfect for all types of cars, and its waterproof casing and cover make it ideal for boats and other marine vehicles.
Spurtar KC-150122 Disconnect Switch
The Spurtar 12 volt battery disconnect isolator is a simple tool to help preserve and extend your battery’s life when it’s not in use. By physically opening the circuit, power is cut off from the system, avoiding parasitic drain on the battery.
Its 500-amp surge and 125-amp continuous rating allow me to use it on varying systems – from 6 volts up to 24 volts DC. This makes the switch very adaptable – I can use it on my car, truck, boat, bike, and even my home generator.
I also love its mechanism simplicity – rotate it clockwise a couple of times to turn on the power and anticlockwise to cut it off. Easy!
And despite its very reasonable price, it’s made of zinc alloy, giving it corrosion resistance and increased durability. This product really gives me the most bang for my buck.
The only downside of this kind of switch is that it installs directly to your battery. It’s not a problem if your battery is inside your vehicle’s cabin – but if it’s in the engine bay or in the trunk, it might be a bit inconvenient to access all the time.
- Physically isolates the battery from the electrical system
- 500-amp surge and 125-amp continuous capacity
- Works for systems from 6 volts up to 24 volts DC
- Made from zinc alloy to avoid corrosion and increase durability
- Budget-friendly with high quality
This item is effortless to use, easy on the. and a breeze to install. If you want something that will cost little and you can easily hook-up yourself. Then this is the one for you.
Big-Autoparts 6276 Disconnect Switch
This heavy duty battery disconnect switch from Big-Autoparts is a safe and efficient tool for physically disconnecting batteries from your equipment electrical system. It prevents power drain due to parasitic consumption and helps prevent incidents when you’re working on it.
It’s rated 20 amps at a continuous 12 volts DC or 40 amps at 6 volts DC. Its maximum momentary capacity is 125 amps at 12 volts or 250 amps at 6 volts. Because of this flexibility, it allows the switch to be handily used in multiple types of vehicles.
One of the best things that I like about this product is the 2-year warranty that Big-Autoparts offers. I always respect a company that would stand behind their work. Furthermore, it gives me the confidence to choose that model over other options simply because of this guarantee.
When I inspected the switch, I realized how the company could offer such a generous warranty. The robust zinc alloy material used for the body and efficient copper metal for the contacts would genuinely extend this switch’s life over other competitors.
My only issue with this is that it doesn’t come with a faceplate. The switch’s base must be installed under the panel you wish to place it at, which could be an issue for some smaller vehicles.
Furthermore, it doesn’t have an on/off indicator on itself. You’ll have to mark it on your panel – which could be an issue if you don’t want to place unnecessary inscriptions on it.
- Physically disconnects the battery from the electrical system
- Prevents parasitic power consumption
- Maximum momentary rating of 250 amps at 6 volts
- Comes with a two-year manufacturer’s warranty
- Made from zinc alloy and copper for durability and efficiency
This car battery disconnect switch works with various voltages, which gives it the flexibility to be installed in different vehicle types. Furthermore, the guarantee offered by the manufacturer makes it an excellent value product.
QuickCar Racing 55-010 Disconnect Switch
The QuickCar Racing Products Master Disconnect Switch is a panel-mount, rotary device with a 125 amp, 12 volt DC rating. It is designed to cut off the electrical power from the rest of your system and help preserve battery levels when your car is not in use. It can also be used to switch off your vehicle in case of an emergency.
When vital maintenance work needs to be done trackside, a simple flick of the switch automatically cuts off electrical power, letting my team work safely and quickly. They don’t have to disconnect the battery when conducting their work, shaving off precious seconds from the stop.
I also love its faceplate design – its clean black background, with white markings and red branding, fits well in my car’s overall theme. The switch is also easy to handle, even when I’m wearing thick, fire-resistant gloves. I really appreciate that I don’t have to fiddle with it when turning it off.
And although it’s not rated waterproof, I frequently have my off-road dirt racer sprayed inside-out, and I haven’t experienced any problem with it. I know that I can rely on this switch for safety and convenience.
You have to keep in mind, though, that this switch doesn’t come with instructions. You must have experience working in automotive electrical systems to install this, or better yet, bring it to a professional.
- Cuts off electrical power from the system
- Can be used to switch off the car in case of an emergency
- No need to remove the battery when working on trackside maintenance
- Clean faceplate design with an easy-to-use handle
- Able to withstand water sprays
This is the perfect switch for sporting vehicles, it’s reliable, durable, and easy-to-use, it can also be used in emergencies and lets your team carry out trackside repair on your car much more quickly.
KTNNKG ZA-P1GM-DYPF Disconnect Switch
The KTNNKG Remote Battery Disconnect Switch is a unique battery disconnect switch that allows you to conveniently disconnect/reconnect your car battery remotely. It’s a very convenient feature because I no longer have to go to the power panel or engine bay to access the switch. It’s perfect, especially for cars with interiors that you don’t want to modify.
The feature that garnered my interest in this product is the included remote. To tell you the truth, it’s my first time encountering such innovation, and I wondered what purpose it has for me. Upon further introspection, I think it’s perfect for my wife, who likes to keep her car stock. She hates modifications and believes that what the manufacturer made is already enough.
When I installed this in her car, she was quite happy because she can now disconnect the battery from the vehicle without anyone knowing where the switch is. Reconnecting the battery to the electrical system is just as discrete, with a remote that looks like a typical car alarm remote.
You can also use this to remotely switch off your vehicle from 160 feet or 50 meters– and if you choose the optional, more powerful remote, you can go as far as up to 320 feet or 100 meters! So if you catch would-be thieves taking off with your car, you can stop them in their tracks with a press of a button.
This really is one of the most innovative automotive battery disconnect switches that I’ve ever seen – not only does it serve as a battery protector, it also serves as a discrete anti-theft device.
You have to take note, though, that the switch itself can get pretty warm. I highly recommend installing it in a place where there is airflow to help it cool down. Also, don’t place the controller near it because it can negatively affect its signal receipt range.
- Connects and disconnects your battery remotely
- Physical switch no longer needs to be placed on an accessible port
- Excellent choice for those who don’t like visual modifications on their cars
- Remote range of 160 ft, up to 320 ft for the optional long-range transmitter
- Discrete to use, perfect as an anti-theft device
This automatic battery cutoff switch is an excellent choice if you’re concerned about your vehicle’s security. It’s discrete and easy to use and will even thwart attempted carnappers if you catch them before they get far.
Audew 12V-48V Disconnect Switch
The Audew Waterproof Disconnect Switch is a panel-mounted rotary switch used to secure and isolate a vehicle’s electrical system. It’s designed to handle up to 275 amps of continuous power, at 455 amps intermittently, and a maximum of 1,250 amps of momentary current at 12 volts DC.
What I like best about the switch is its thick ABS plastic case. This solid cover makes me confident that I won’t get accidentally grounded when turning it on. over, the included four-set mounting screws make for a more secure setup.
I appreciate that the company added a rear cover for this disconnect switch. It protects it against the elements, especially when I’m driving through extreme weather fronts. This keeps moisture out of the system and prevents any electrical short.
I also love the clean and straightforward design of the switch. It’s effortless to use and would fit well in the instrument panel of my motorhome. And since it’s waterproof, I also plan to get one for my boat.
The one thing that I noticed, though, is that the bolts are a bit longer than required. Although it’s nothing that a little trim wouldn’t solve, it can still be a hassle for some users.
- Handles up to 1,250 amps of momentary current at 12 volts DC.
- Protected by a solid ABS plastic case
- Comes with a rear cover to avoid electrical shorts
- Clean and straightforward design makes it simple to use
- Waterproof design – can also be used on boats and other watercraft
Whether you own a boat, an RV, or a truck, this multipurpose switch would help you isolate your battery and preserve its power. It’s an excellent investment, giving you an assurance that your vehicles will start even after prolonged storage.
What to Look for When Buying a Battery Disconnect Switch
There are multiple kinds of disconnect switches available on the market. Let’s break it down by purpose, type, and application to help you choose the best one for you. Once you’ve considered these, you can make an informed choice to fit your vehicle and lifestyle.
These switches have two primary purposes – the first one is to preserve your battery power. Most modern vehicles, despite being turned off, still consume a minute amount of energy. This is not a problem for most regularly used cars– because every time you switch it on, the battery gets fully charged.
But once a vehicle is stored or parked for extended periods, like three weeks or more, this minute consumption could actually drain your battery. The best way to avoid this is to physically disconnect the battery from the system – but since it is quite inconvenient to go under the hood with a wrench when you park it, then a battery disconnect switch is a much better alternative.
Another purpose of the best battery disconnect switch is to protect your vehicle from being stolen. By cutting off the power from the motor, it becomes impossible to start the engine. While carnappers know about this technology, they are less likely to succeed when a car they’re attempting to steal won’t start.
There are multiple types of switches available for you to choose from. The simplest available is the knife blade switch, which consists of two copper posts connected by a brass lever. By simply lifting up or bringing down this lever, the circuit is either closed or opened. This type is the easiest to install. Although it is usually directly placed on the battery.
The most common one is the rotary switch, which allows you to turn it on or off by turning a knob – either on the control panel or mounted directly on the battery. A variation of this is the lever switch – wherein a lever is used instead of a knob. Although this switch is almost the same in principle, it’s much easier to use because it allows better grip and leverage. This is the preferred switch by most racers.
The advancement of the lever-type switch led to the key and switch mechanism. Much like your vehicle’s ignition, this system requires a unique key to turn the switch – without which you cannot have power. This type of disconnector is primarily used for anti-theft.
A more advanced option for disconnecting your battery is the remote switch. It acts under the same principle as the other switches I’ve previously discussed, but instead of using a physical button or lever, a radio-controlled electromagnetic trigger is used instead. This acts as a secondary disarming system for your vehicle and is also generally used as an anti-theft device.
Lastly, there’s the relay isolator. This device is designed for vehicles that utilize multiple battery systems, usually RVs. When the ignition is off, it physically isolates the secondary battery but automatically connects it to the system when the power is on. That means it gets charged when the motor is running but is preserved when the car is parked.
There are two common places that a battery disconnect switch is installed on – either directly on the battery post or on the dashboard or instrument panel.
If you rarely use or store your vehicle and don’t want to spend too much, I recommend that you go with the one installed on the battery post. It’s easy to install, simple to use, and requires almost no maintenance. The only downside to it is that it can be quite inconvenient to access.
If you want a battery disconnect switch inside car, I’d recommend that you go for the instrument panel-mounted one. It’s easy to access, and you can place it in a discrete position to make your car a bit more secure.
However, if your primary goal is to protect against stealing, you could purchase the remote disconnector or the key and switch mechanism. If you opt for the former, it can be hidden in the car, and you don’t need to physically access it just to turn it on or off. For the latter, you can place it in a more conspicuous position since it requires its own key to operate.
Other Important Factors to Consider
Aside from the options or kinds of switches available on the market, here’s some more information on how these switches work and why you should have them.
What Is a Battery Disconnect Switch?
These switches physically cut your battery’s connection, usually the negative port, from the rest of the system. Doing this prevents residual power from being consumed by your vehicle, especially when it’s stored for an extended period. This extends your battery’s life and prevents you from returning to a car with a dead battery.
Another reason to use this device is if you’re worried that your automobile might get stolen. By cutting off the power from the system, a would-be thief would have a harder time stealing your car. Furthermore, a non-working vehicle would serve as a deterrent because no carnapper would want to take a “broken” car.
Who Is This For?
This is typically used by people who have recreational vehicles that they only use occasionally. If you have an RV or a boat that you only use once or twice a quarter, I’d recommend installing this. You can be confident that your vehicle will start immediately because your battery isn’t flat out.
How Does It Work?
Battery disconnect switches work by physically cutting the battery’s connection and the rest of the electrical system. This can be accomplished in multiple ways – the simplest being a manual lever. Some switches use a screw-type knob to open the circuit, while some use an internal switch mechanism.
The most advanced options are the ones that utilize remotely-controlled electromagnets or even automatic relays. Despite all these options and innovations, the basic concept is the same – cut the power by opening the circuit.
What are the Different Types of Battery Disconnect Switches
The most common type would be the rotary switch, followed by the lever and knife switches, and then finally the remote and the relay switch. There are also panel-mounted, and battery post mounted switches.
There are also two different primary purposes – the first one being battery preservation and the second one as a carnap deterring device.
Why do you need a Battery Shut Off Switch- The Benefits of a Battery Shut Off Switch
With a switch installed in your vehicle, you not only preserve its battery when stored or not in use, but it also acts as an anti-theft device. This is because most carnappers are always on the lookout for possible witnesses. The longer they have to start the stolen vehicle clandestinely, the greater their chances of being discovered.
If a vehicle is difficult to start because its battery isn’t connected, then, chances are, the felons would simply move on.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are some of the common questions that my friends ask me. I’ll share them with you as they might be your questions as well.
What are the Most Trusted Battery Disconnect Switch Brands?
Ampper offers more different types of battery disconnect switches, which is why I think they’re quite reliable. I’ve seen more of my friends going with this brand recently, and I haven’t heard of any complaints from them.
Another brand that I noticed is the QuickCar Racing Products model – it seems to be preferred by professional racers. I believe that they favor it over the others because it is easy to use and very reliable. They wouldn’t stake their careers on something that could fail them while on the track.
Should a Battery Disconnect Switch Be on the Positive or Negative?
Switches like these are typically installed on the positive terminal of the battery. This is because the negative terminal on most batteries also serves as the ground. If you cut off the system from the ground/negative, then there could be a chance enough energy potential is left in the system such that it could shock someone who unwittingly holds a wire.
However, some switches are designed to be installed on the negative side of the battery. You should read the instructions included in the packaging before doing any installation. If you’re not sure, it’s best to consult with a professional.
Can a Battery Disconnect Switch Go Bad?
Like with any other item, a battery disconnect switch could fail. However, barring manufacturer errors or problems, this is a rare occurrence. The most common problem that I’ve encountered so far is the lever breaking. This is usually caused by inferior quality materials from the manufacturer – that’s why I prefer the brands above.
Another issue that I’ve encountered is non-functional switches (either permanently on or off). This is commonly caused by using a switch that is not rated to your alternator’s maximum ampere rating. Keep in mind that, although most electrical systems have a continuous ampere rating (usually 100 amps), a surge of power could happen during startup, up to 1,000 amps.
Always check your vehicle’s manual before making an order, and then countercheck the product’s specifications to see if it will handle the loads that your vehicle will bring.
Where is the Battery Disconnect Switch?
There are multiple places where you can install these switches – the most common areas being the battery posts or under the instrument panel. Some also install them in the engine case.
However, it all depends on the vehicle and the owner. There is usually no fixed position to place these switches.
How Do You Test a Battery Disconnect Switch?
Testing these switches requires that you have an ohmmeter. Connect your tester’s leads on both contacts of the switch and turn it on. The resistance should drop to nearly zero if the switch is okay. When turned off, then resistance should be at infinity because there shouldn’t be any connection between the two ports.
If that is not the case, then the switch is definitely defective.
Where Can I Buy a Battery Disconnect Switch?
These are common items and are generally available in automotive and department stores. Their personnel should know this, and they could actually help you choose the correct one for you.
If you don’t have the time to go out, you can actually order online. However, make sure that you read item reviews first before ordering and then testing it immediately upon receipt to ensure that it’s working.
With the options that I have shared and the buyer’s guide that I’ve discussed, you can now purchase the best battery disconnect switch that will fit your purpose. You don’t have to buy any of the items above, but they’re the best ones that I’ve found so far. If you see something better, do share it with me!
Just keep in mind, always buy what you need. Canvass well, and don’t be dazzled by sales talk. When in doubt, read your manual and always consult a professional automotive electrician.
Why Does My Motorcycle Battery Keep Dying? (Causes and Fixes)
If you’re a motorcycle owner, then you know that a battery is one of the most important parts of the bike. Without it, your bike will not start. If your battery keeps dying on you, then you need to find out why and fix the problem.
Your motorcycle battery will keep dying if there’s a power drain in the system causing the battery to deplete while the motorcycle is parked. Damaged wiring, corroded terminal, and general connection problems could also cause the issue.
Motorcycle Battery Keep Dying: 8 Causes Fixes
If you’re a motorcycle owner, you know that one of the most important parts of your bike is the battery. Not only does it provide power to start your engine, but it also helps run all the electrical components on your motorcycle.
However, if you find that your motorcycle battery keeps dying, it can be a real pain. Not only will it leave you stranded, but it can also be expensive to replace.
There are a few different things that can cause your motorcycle battery to keep dying. Here are some of the most common causes and what you can do to fix them.
Your Battery Is Old
One of the most common reasons why your motorcycle battery keeps dying is because it’s simply too old. Batteries have a limited lifespan and eventually, they just wear out.
If your battery is more than three or four years old, it’s probably time to replace it. Even if it’s not showing any other signs of trouble, an old battery is more likely to die suddenly.
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You’re Not Riding Enough
Another common reason for a motorcycle battery to keep dying is that you’re not riding it enough. Motorcycles need to be ridden regularly in order to keep the battery charged.
If you only ride your bike a few times a year, the battery will slowly lose its charge and eventually die. If you want to prevent this from happening, make sure to ride your motorcycle at least once a week, even if it’s just around the block.
Your Battery Is Loose
If your motorcycle battery is loose, it can cause all sorts of problems. Not only will it make it harder for your bike to start, but it can also cause your battery to die prematurely.
To fix this problem, simply check the bolts that hold your battery in place and tighten them if necessary. You may also want to consider replacing the battery tray if it’s damaged or corroded.
There’s a Short Circuit
A short circuit is another common reason why a motorcycle battery keeps dying. This usually happens when two metal surfaces come into contact with each other, creating a direct path for electricity to flow.
This can happen if your battery terminals are loose or if there’s a break in the wiring. To fix this problem, you’ll need to find the source of the short and repair it.
You’re Using the Wrong Battery
If you’re using the wrong type of battery for your motorcycle, it can cause all sorts of problems. Not only will it make it harder for your bike to start, but it can also shorten the life of your battery.
To avoid this problem, make sure to use the correct type of battery for your motorcycle. You can usually find this information in your owner’s manual.
Your Alternator Isn’t Working Right
If your alternator isn’t working properly, it can cause your battery to keep dying. The alternator is responsible for charging the battery while the engine is running.
If it’s not working right, the battery will eventually die. To fix this problem, you’ll need to have your alternator checked by a mechanic.
Too Many Add-ons
If your motorcycle has a lot of aftermarket add-ons, it can put a strain on the battery. Things like heated grips, GPS, and even extra lights can all drain the battery faster than normal.
To fix this problem, you’ll need to either remove some of the add-ons or upgrade to a bigger battery. Sometimes, you’ll need a better alternator.
If your regulator/rectifier is bad, it can cause your motorcycle battery to keep dying. This part of the electrical system regulates the voltage that goes to the battery.
If it’s not working right, the battery will eventually die. To fix this problem, you’ll need to have your regulator replaced.
What to Do When the Motorcycle Battery Dies?
When your motorcycle battery dies, it can be a real pain. Not only are you stranded, but you also have to deal with the hassle of getting a new one. Here’s what you need to do when your motorcycle battery dies.
Get a New Battery
The first thing you need to do when your motorcycle battery dies is to get a new one. You can either take it to a dealership or buy one online. Make sure you get the right size and type of battery for your motorcycle.
Once you have the new battery, you need to install it. This is usually a pretty easy process, but if you’re not sure how to do it, there’s a guide below.
Once the new battery is installed, you need to charge it. You can do this by connecting it to a charger or by riding your motorcycle for a while. Make sure you charge it fully before using it again.
After you’ve charged the new battery, it’s a good idea to test it out. To do this, turn on your motorcycle and see if it starts up properly. If not, you may need to take it back to the dealership or buy a different type of battery.
Jump-Start Your Motorcycle
If your motorcycle won’t start, you may be able to jump-start it. This involves connecting the negative terminal of one battery to the positive terminal of another.
Make sure the batteries are the same voltage and amperage. If they’re not, you could damage your motorcycle.
To jump-start, your motorcycle, first, turns off both bikes. Then, connect the negative terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other (red cable on the positive terminal, black on the negative). Finally, try to start your motorcycle. If it starts, let it run for a few minutes before turning it off.
If your motorcycle still won’t start, you may need to change the battery completely.
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Push-Start Your Motorcycle
If your motorcycle has a kickstand, you may be able to push-start it. This involves getting the motorcycle moving and then popping the clutch to start the engine.
To push-start your motorcycle, first, put it in second gear. Then, find a slope or hill to start from. Get the motorcycle moving, and then let go of the clutch quickly. The engine should start.
This is harder to do with larger motorcycles as they need more energy to start the engine.
How to Install a Motorcycle Battery
First, let’s talk about what you need in order to install a motorcycle battery. You will need a few tools, including a socket wrench set, a ratchet, and a Phillips head screwdriver. You may also need a few other items depending on your particular motorcycle model, so consult your owner’s manual before beginning the installation process.
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Once you have gathered all of the necessary tools, you are ready to begin. The first step is to remove the old battery from your motorcycle. To do this, locate the negative (-) terminal on the battery and disconnect it. Next, locate the positive terminal and disconnect it as well. With the old battery removed, you can now install the new battery.
Start by connecting the positive terminal of the new battery to the positive terminal of the motorcycle. Once this connection is made, connect the negative (-) terminal of the new battery to the negative terminal of the motorcycle. Be sure that these connections are secure and free of any corrosion.
After both terminals have been properly connected, you can now install the new battery in your motorcycle. Begin by inserting the new battery into the space where the old one was located. Once it is in place, use the ratchet to tighten down the bolts that hold it in place.
Now that the new battery is installed, you can start your motorcycle and enjoy the ride. Just be sure to follow the proper care instructions for your particular battery type in order to keep it working properly for as long as possible.
How to Store a Motorcycle Battery?
When it comes to storing your motorcycle battery, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. First of all, you need to make sure that the battery is stored in a cool and dry place. Extreme temperatures can damage the battery and shorten its lifespan.
Another important thing to remember is that you should never store the battery on a concrete floor. This can cause the battery to discharge and may damage it beyond repair. Instead, store the battery on a wooden or plastic surface.
Finally, be sure to disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery before storing it for an extended period of time. This will prevent any accidental discharge from occurring while the motorcycle is in storage.
How to Charge Motorcycle Battery?
To charge your motorcycle battery, you will need a few things, including a charger specifically designed for motorcycle batteries, access to an AC outlet, and some patience.
Begin by connecting the charger to the battery. Once the connection is made, plug the charger into an AC outlet and turn it on. The charging process will take several hours, so be patient and do not try to hurry it along.
Once the charging process is complete, disconnect the charger from the battery and then from the AC outlet. You can now store or use your motorcycle as needed. Just be sure to follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions regarding battery care and maintenance.
How Long Do Motorcycle Batteries Last?
Motorcycle batteries typically last between two and five years, depending on the quality of the battery and how well it is maintained. Batteries used in colder climates tend to have a shorter lifespan than those used in warmer climates.
To extend the life of your motorcycle battery, be sure to keep it clean and free of corrosion. Also, avoid overcharging or discharging it too frequently. Inspect it regularly for signs of damage or wear, and replace it as soon as possible if any problems are detected.
What Are Bad Voltage Regulator Symptoms?
A bad voltage regulator can cause a number of car problems, including a dead battery, dim lights, and electrical shorts.
How Do I Test My Alternator Without a Multimeter?
To test your alternator, first, disconnect the negative terminal of your car battery.
Next, start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Then, turn on all the lights in your car, and rev the engine to around 2,000 RPM. If the lights become dim or flicker, this is an indication that your alternator is not working properly.
How Many Add-ons Can I Put on My Bike?
The number of add-ons you can put on your bike depends on the size and power of your motorcycle. If you have a small or underpowered bike, adding too many accessories can adversely affect its performance as the alternator won’t make enough energy for all of them. Conversely, if you have a large and powerful motorcycle, it can handle more accessories without sacrificing performance.
Do All Motorcycles Have Batteries?
No, not all motorcycles have batteries. Some older bikes, particularly those with carbureted engines, don’t require them. However, most modern motorcycles do have batteries as they need them to power the ignition system.
As you can see, there are a number of different reasons why your motorcycle battery might keep dying. Some of these are more common than others, but all of them can be fixed relatively easily.
If your battery is old, try replacing it. If you’re not riding enough, make sure to ride at least once a week. And if you have too many add-ons, try removing some or upgrading to a bigger battery.
These are just some of the most common reasons a motorcycle battery dies. If you’re having trouble with yours, make sure to check for these problems first. With a little bit of troubleshooting, you should be able to get to the bottom of the issue and get back on the road in no time!
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