Companies Behind Costco’s Kirkland Brand Products
If you’ve ever shopped at Costco, you’ve likely purchased something from their premium in-house brand, Kirkland Signature, which has become a household name. The Kirkland brand spans across groceries, clothing and household essentials, and seems to have something to offer in every department.
But have you ever wondered who’s behind the production of these premium goods?
Although Costco doesn’t publicly disclose the manufacturers and suppliers of its Kirkland products, there are some well-known companies believed to be behind these items. Here are some that might surprise you.
Some Kirkland Signature coffees sold at Costco are, in fact, roasted by Starbucks. This means that each and every morning, you can savor the consistently flavorful and enjoyable coffee experience Starbucks offers — but at Costco’s prices.
The Medium Roast Kirkland Signature House Blend Coffee costs 18.99 for 2.5 lbs.
Keurig also supplies coffee for Costco, making K-Cup pods for use with their Keurig line of machines. Costco offers a selection of Kirkland Signature K-Cup flavors, catering to the preferences of those who like this method of brewing.
Costco sells their Kirkland Signature Breakfast Blend K-Cup at 38.99 for 120 pods.
Diamond Pet Foods
Diamond Pet Foods is a family-owned company that is known for using high-quality ingredients in its pet food formulas and adhering to strict safety and quality control standards. Diamond Pet Foods uses a blend of grains, vegetables, and meat proteins to provide well-rounded nutrition for pets.
If you’re a Costco shopper, you may find that the Kirkland Signature-labeled pet food you’re purchasing is, in fact, manufactured by Diamond Pet Foods, offering your four-legged family members quality eats at a reasonable price.
Kirkland Signature Adult Formula is sold in a 40 lb. bag for 52.99.
You’ll find Ocean Spray juices at Costco sold under the Kirkland Signature label. Ocean Spray has earned a reputation for making high-quality juices that are nutritious and flavorful. If you’re a fan of Ocean Spray, buying them at Costco under the Kirkland Signature label is an excellent way to save money on this refreshing beverage.
Kirkland Signature Organic Cranberry Juice Cocktail is sold in a pack of two 96 fl oz. bottles for 9.99
If you have babies or young children at home, buying diapers can become an expensive necessity. Huggies diapers are known for being a top-quality option due to their excellent leak protection, comfortable fit and overall reliability.
To save money, you may want to purchase Kirkland Signature diapers in bulk at Costco, which are manufactured by Kimberly-Clark — the same company that produces Huggies. By choosing this option, you can rest assured that you are purchasing a premium product for less.
Kirkland Signature Diapers are available in sizes 1-2 for 34.99 for a package of 192 diapers.
I’m a mom of 4 teenagers who shops at Costco. Here are 14 things I love to buy and how I use them.
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- I’m a mom of four teenagers, and I’ve been shopping at Costco for bulk buys since they were little.
- The chain allows me to maximize my budget and get everything I need for my home in one stop.
- Note: and availability may vary based on the time of year and location.
This bulk pack of batteries has made it so much easier to keep up with my kids’ gaming habits.
We go through batteries in our house almost as quickly as groceries. My kids love to play video games and use wireless remotes that require them.
So I stock up on these Duracell alkaline batteries to always have them on hand.
These 40-packs of AA and AAA batteries regularly cost 18.99, but I found them on sale for just 15.99.
Chocolate croissants are perfect for a quick breakfast on the go.
My kids are out the door before 7 a.m. to get to school, so there isn’t a lot of time for breakfast.
These yummy chocolate croissants, or pains au chocolat, from La Boulangère are great for a quick bite or on-the-go snack since they’re individually wrapped.
You can get a package of 16 croissants for 8.69.
Atlantic salmon is great for a quiet dinner at home.
We’ve been trying to incorporate more fish into our diet, but with a large family, that can get expensive.
But these fresh Atlantic boneless and skinless salmon filets cost 8.99 per pound.
They’re great on the barbecue or in the oven. Served with a salad and vegetables, it makes for a simple, wholesome meal everyone in the family enjoys.
I simply reheat these stuffed peppers for an easy meal.
Between everyone’s extracurricular activities, sports, and part-time jobs, life with four teens can be pretty busy, so having meals on hand that I can pop in the oven is crucial.
Stuffed with ground beef and rice, these delicious peppers are perfect for when I don’t have time to cook.
Selling for just 4.99 per pound, this is one of my favorite go-to meals from Costco.
I love Busseto’s prepackaged salami-and-provolone kits for snacking on the go.
I’m always on the lookout for something we can all munch on, and these snack-size packs are a favorite in my house.
Each package contains cubed provolone cheese and bite-sized slices of salami.
My kids grab these when they need something quick before heading off to sports practice, and my husband and I enjoy them when we want a protein-heavy, carb-light snack.
Eight packs regularly cost 11.99, but I got them on sale for 9.49.
Rojo’s six-layer dip is a must-have in our house.
This six-layer dip with black beans and Cotija cheese gets eaten almost as soon as I bring it home, so thankfully it comes in a pack of two.
The dip also contains avocado, salsa, seasoned sour cream, and cheddar.
My kids love to eat it with nacho chips, layer it on tacos, or simply spread it on a tortilla as a wrap. They’re great for when friends stop by, as well.
You can get two 20-ounce containers for just 11.49.
Kirkland’s five-cheese tortelloni is a favorite on pasta night.
I always have homemade pasta sauce in my house, and I love using this five-cheese tortelloni instead of standard spaghetti or penne when I want to change things up.
This pasta comes in two 1 1/2-pound packages and is ready in just two minutes, so it’s both delicious and quick.
After boiling this tortelloni, I cover it with cheese and sauce, then bake it in the oven. I’ll use the entire double pack and freeze leftovers for when I need a quick dinner.
At just 10.69, it’s an amazingly affordable meal for my family.
Ajinomoto’s individual packs of chicken fried rice are perfect for a quick snack or side dish.
I love that this yakitori-chicken fried rice comes in individual packages. Since my kids play sports and have part-time jobs, they often need to eat at different times.
These are also handy as an easy-to-pack lunch or a simple dinner side. The rice has grilled chicken and vegetables and can be ready in just three minutes.
Each box contains six 9-ounce bags and costs 13.99.
These four-packs of frozen pizza never last long in our house.
I always make sure I have Kirkland‘s thin-crust pepperoni pizza in my freezer.
My kids will often pop one or two of these in the oven as an after-school snack, and they’re great to have on hand when their friends come over.
They’re convenient to have in the freezer and only cost 14.69 for a pack of four, which is much cheaper than ordering delivery.
I love these versatile meatballs as a hearty snack or source of protein.
I used to only buy Kirkland’s Italian-style cooked meatballs for parties, but they’ve quickly become a go-to meal and snack in my house.
I often put them in the slow cooker with barbecue sauce during the day so my kids have something hot and ready when they get home from school. Sometimes I’ll make plain white rice to serve with them for a dinner.
The kids also love to make meatball sandwiches.
A 6-pound bag, which contains approximately 140 meatballs, is 19.99. I usually get two meals out of one pack, so this is an affordable option for my large family.
Where to Find Rental Car Discounts
Joining AAA, Costco or AARP can get you discounts on car rentals, but there are other ways to save, too.
Anya Kartashova 10xTravel, Forbes Advisor, FlyerTalk, Fodor’s, MileValue, Reward Expert
Anya is a freelance writer and full-time traveler based in Salt Lake City. She has written about travel rewards and personal finance for FrugalTravelGuy, Fodor’s, FlyerTalk, 10xTravel and Reward Expert. Her goal is to visit every country in the world by offsetting the cost with points and miles.
Meghan Coyle started as a web producer and writer at NerdWallet in 2018. She covers travel rewards, including industry news, airline and hotel loyalty programs, and how to travel on points. She is based in Los Angeles.
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The rental car crunch and rising gas have significantly increased the cost of a road trip. As car rental agencies struggle to replenish their inventory, daily rental rates are soaring in popular travel destinations. In some cities, you’re lucky to find a vehicle at all.
However, renting a car doesn’t have to feel like highway robbery. Discounts are abundant — you just have to know where to look.
Here’s where and how to find rental car discounts.
AAA car rental discounts
The AAA isn’t just for emergency roadside assistance. As a member, you can get discounted rates on auto repairs, auto insurance and battery service.
Additionally, AAA has partnered with a few car rental companies to offer members rental car discounts. Simply enter your club discount code to reserve a car online and present your membership card at the rental counter.
AAA membership starts at 59 per year.
If you’re an AAA member, you can save up to 20% off the base rate (time and mileage charges only) on Hertz rentals booked in the U.S. and Canada and up to 10% off the base rate on rentals booked across the world.
You also can add a driver (who is also a AAA member) and a child safety seat for free. AAA members ages 20 to 24 can will get the “young driver fee” waived. Additionally, AAA members can save 10% off prepaid fuel and 50% off SiriusXM satellite radio.
Hertz Gold Plus Rewards is the company’s loyalty program. It’s free to join and membership allows you to skip the counter and pick a car from the lot.
Dollar Rent A Car
AAA members receive up to 10% discount off the base rate on Dollar car rentals at participating U.S. and Canada locations. An additional driver who’s also a AAA member and a child seat are free to add. You also receive 10% off fuel when you prepay for gas at the counter.
Save up to 8% off the base rate of your next Thrifty rental by putting your AAA membership to use. Like with the previous two car rental companies, rentals in the U.S. and Canada only are eligible for the discount.
Additionally, you can save money by adding a driver (who must be a AAA member) and a child seat at no extra cost. Prepaid fuel and a GPS navigation system get a 10% discount at the counter.
AARP discount car rental
AARP is another organization offering discounts to members, including car rental discounts.
AARP membership costs 16 per year, but you can reduce that cost by signing up for a multiyear membership with automatic renewal.
You can save money on your rental car with the following companies:
AARP members save up to 30% off base rates on car rentals booked in the U.S. and Canada. A full-class car upgrade may be available at pickup, and an additional driver can be added at no cost.
Budget offers a discount of up to 35% on base rates to AARP members. A free additional driver, a free upgrade, discounted GPS and a loss damage waiver coverage are included in the AARP rates on rentals in the U.S. and Canada.
For those who are relocating, Budget Truck Rental offers a 10% (Friday and Saturday) to 20% (Sunday through Thursday) discount on moving truck rentals.
Payless Car Rental
AARP members save 5% off base rates on car rentals in the U.S. and Canada and get an additional driver for free. A free upgrade on compact through full-size car bookings may be available as well.
Zipcar isn’t a traditional rental car company. Instead, this car-sharing app allows you to book a car on demand for a few hours to run errands in your neighborhood or for two days for a weekend trip (up to 180 miles per day are included).
AARP members pay 40 to join Zipcar, plus a one-time 25 application fee and get 40 in driving credit. Meanwhile, a regular annual membership costs 70. Gas, secondary insurance and maintenance are included in the cost.
Costco car rental discounts
Costco enthusiasts have access to members-only discounts from select car rental companies, such as Alamo, Avis, Budget and Enterprise. It’s possible to get discounts for rentals abroad.
With Costco member rates on rental cars, you can reserve online and pay at the counter, or cancel your booking without fees. It’s also possible to add a driver for free — the additional driver fee is waived on cars rented in the U.S. with Avis and Budget and on cars rented in the U.S., France, Germany, Ireland, Spain, and the U.K. with Alamo and Enterprise.
Executive Membership holders earn a 2% reward on purchases made through Costco Travel, including rental cars.
Costco charges 60 per year plus tax for regular membership and 120 per year plus tax for Executive Membership.
AutoSlash car rental discount
Not only does AutoSlash help you locate the lowest car rental price, but the website also tracks your reservation and sends you an email when the price of your car drops.
When generating quotes, AutoSlash takes into account membership-only discounts, including some of the ones listed above. The website asks whether you hold certain credit cards or are a member of wholesale clubs and whether you’re a frequent customer of select rental agencies.
AutoSlash then applies more than 1,000 coupon codes in its database when searching for the rental based on your parameters. The website claims to save you about 30% off what you can find on other sites.
Once you get a quote and are happy with it, you can reserve your car. If the price of your rental goes down after you booked it, you’ll receive a price drop alert.
tips for rental car discounts
Avoid one-way rentals: Picking up a rental vehicle at one location and dropping it off at another place lets you see more places on one trip and save time by flying from another airport. Doing this usually costs extra money. To avoid paying drop-off fees, reserve your car during special promotions that waive one-way or inter-city fees. Better yet, avoid one-way rentals.
Consider off-airport locations: An airport is a convenient place to pick up a car, but rental rates often include facility fees and taxes. To dodge this bump in the road, look for off-airport car rental agency locations to compare costs. Factor the cost of a ride to the pickup/drop-off spot to make sure the savings are significant enough to give up the convenience.
Decline collision damage waiver: Select credit cards offer collision damage waiver insurance as part of their membership benefit. This insurance typically covers theft and vehicle damage in case of an accident. Check the cardmember terms and decline coverage only if your card provides this perk.
If you’re looking for a discount car rental
Being a member of an organization or a wholesale club often provides more benefits than just discounts on products or services. AAA, AARP and Costco all provide car rental discounts to their members.
If you’re not a member, search for a vehicle on AutoSlash. Combine the site’s rates with a few money-saving tricks, and you’ve got a discount for your next road trip.
How to maximize your rewards
You want a travel credit card that prioritizes what’s important to you. Here are our picks for the best travel credit cards of 2023. including those best for:
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Who Makes Kirkland Batteries? (Auto, Car, Interstate, Alkaline for Costco!)
Have you ever wondered who makes Kirkland Costco Auto, Car, Interstate, or Alkaline batteries? Costco is well known for selling cheap items in bulk. One item that always seems to catch people’s eyes is their Kirkland batteries. They are among the cheapest batteries in the US. So, who makes Kirkland batteries? Kirkland Alkaline batteries are produced by Duracell while the Kirkland hearing aid batteries are made by Ray-O-Vac and Kirkland car batteries being made by Johnson Controls. All of your questions are going to be answered right here.
Who makes Kirkland batteries?
This is going to be dependent on the batteries that you are looking at. However, you may be surprised to know which companies are producing many of these batteries. In some cases, you get high-quality batteries, even if you do buy something that looks like a budget brand.
Basically, these are the batteries that you would use in your day-to-day life i.e. the batteries that go in your remote control, children’s games, etc.
At the moment, all evidence points toward these batteries being produced by Duracell. Yep. These batteries come from the exact same factory that some of the more expensive batteries on the market come from.
Do bear in mind that you won’t find this actually listed on the Kirkland battery packaging. You should also bear in mind that the battery producer could change at any moment.
So, if Costco believes that they are no longer getting a good deal buying the Duracell batteries in, then they may change who their supplier is. However, we doubt that this is something that is going to be happening any time soon.
They have been working with Duracell for an incredibly long time.
We will talk more about the quality of these batteries in a short while. Before we do that, we have two more battery types to talk to you about.
Hearing aid batteries
It seems as if the hearing aid batteries provider for Kirkland batteries does change every so often.
At the moment, everything seems to point toward their batteries being made by Ray-O-Vac. Although, some people have noted that this name does not appear on all of the product packagings.
This means that Costco could be using multiple suppliers for their hearing aid batteries.
If you really want to know who is manufacturing your hearing aid batteries, then it should say it on the back of the Kirkland packaging.
Kirkland car batteries
This includes all car batteries, boat batteries, etc. Basically, those bigger batteries that you use to power your vehicles.
There does seem to be a little bit of confusion about who makes Kirkland car batteries. This is because, for a short while, Costco seemed to discontinue its range of car batteries.
Although, they do now seem to have made a comeback in many stores throughout the United States.
At the moment, everything seems to point toward Kirkland car batteries being made by Johnson Controls.
You may also see their batteries branded as Optima Batteries. They are exactly the same battery, just sold under the Kirkland Batteries brand name.
Costco Interstate Batteries
Interstate batteries are a product of Costco Wholesale and manufactured by Johnson Controls.
Are Kirkland batteries good?
Yes, Kirkland batteries are good.
Let’s start with the alkaline batteries. There is a small chance that these batteries are made from Duracell batteries that Duracell didn’t really think would be good enough for their main range of batteries i.e. the ‘rejects’.
Although, we doubt that this is the case.
We doubt that Duracell has really shaken up its manufacturing process to produce Kirkland batteries. We reckon that they are going to be exactly the same as the Duracell batteries.
Since Duracell batteries are known for their longevity, then you can be sure that you are getting a high-quality battery here.
Even if it is doesn’t last as long as a Duracell battery, it is still going to be a whole lot cheaper to pick up Kirkland batteries. They offer a bigger bang for your buck.
Because there is a chance that their hearing aid batteries are produced by different companies, there doesn’t really seem to be a consensus on how decent their batteries are. However, as Kirkland is the only hearing aid battery sold by Costco, they are unlikely to be bad.
Costco’s reputation is on the line here. So, we are sure that hearing aid users will be able to get a lot of life out of Kirkland hearing aid batteries.
Their automotive batteries are said to offer the best bang for your buck in the business. If you want an automotive battery that beats the competition, then you need to look into Kirkland automotive batteries.
Kirkland batteries from Costco are produced by some of the biggest names in the battery manufacturing business.
This means that you can score yourself some top-of-the-line batteries for a price that isn’t all that high at all.
Always try to pick up Kirkland batteries. You will be surprised at just how good they are.
Here are some of my favorite services, products, and Stores
There are affiliate links, so if you do decide to use any of them, I´ll earn a small commission. But in all honesty, these are the exact what I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family.
To see all my of most up-to-date recommendations, check out this resource that I made for you!
Why Do Batteries Corrode And Leak
How many of you have seen a corroded battery compartment in one of your consumer devices? Have you wondered why do batteries leak, and ways how to prevent it?
No doubt that most of you have seen the ‘white fluff’ of battery corrosion. As a result, it migrates into the battery terminals. Typical AA battery corrosion from leaking. It creates a mess and may even ruin the electronic device.
– Here’s why batteries corrode.– How to prevent battery corrosion.– How to clean it up the mess.– Batteries that will NOT leak or corrode.
I’m talking about typical consumer batteries such as AA or AAA size. Here’s a photo of the battery compartment to one of my gadgets – clearly showing battery corrosion.
(See below for Car Batteries / corrosion)
Energizer Batteries Guarantee No Corrode, No Leak
UPDATE, Energizer guarantees that these particular batteries will NOT corrode. I made the switch and can attest that none of them have leaked:
As of this writing, the best price I’ve seen for these batteries:Energizer MAX AA(amzn)Energizer MAX AAA
What is the White Fluff Corrosion on the Battery?
These batteries seem to eventually corrode. Here’s a closeup picture of the ‘white fluff’ and leakage.
Potassium Carbonate is the white fluffy corrosion that develops at the ends of the battery. It’s most often seen at the Negative ( – ) end of the battery.
The “alkaline” of the battery is potassium hydroxide. It’s the alkali equivalent of acid’s hydrochloric acid. This will leak out, forming a white “fluff” of potassium carbonate. It typically leaks on the negative end of the battery cell. Why? Apparently the positive end is vented better.
Why Do Batteries Leak?
Hydrogen Gas Out-Gassing | Poor Battery Seals
As batteries discharge, the chemistry changes and some hydrogen gas is generated.
This out-gassing process increases pressure in the battery.
Eventually, the excess pressure may rupture the insulating seals at the end of the battery, or the outer metal canister, or both. Again, the Energizer Max battery claims no-leak (perhaps better seals than other brands).
Dead Batteries may Leak (AA | AAA)
All batteries will slowly gradually self-discharge over time. This will occur whether they are setting on the shelf (a much slower process) or installed in a device (which often occurs much quicker). And dead batteries may eventually leak, resulting in the “white fluff” corrosion.
High temperatures can also cause batteries to rupture and leak (hot, summer environment).
Why Do Batteries Corrode If Left Installed?
Consumer alkaline batteries (such as the common AA or AAA) can eventually leak and corrode while on the shelf. With that said, batteries that are left installed in devices are more likely to leak. Here’s why…
Self Discharged Parasitic Drain
These batteries will gradually and naturally self-discharge. They will discharge even quicker when small trickle currents slowly drain the battery (‘parasitic drain’). Consequently this leads to a dead battery (or batteries) which will out-gas and corrode.
A slow parasitic battery drain is common in many devices. It will slowly discharge the batteries until they’re ‘dead’. As a result, the batteries may eventually leak.
A device that is left unattended for long periods of time (with the batteries installed) may drain down slowly and kill the batteries.
Examples of batteries that corrode in devices.
A clock display screen on a portable radio is one good example of parasitic drain. When the device is turned off, the clock continues to draw down the battery, albeit very little. A ‘find me’ dimly lit LED is another example. Many modern devices have active circuitry which is always ‘on’ to some extent. This will slowly drain the batteries while you may not even realize it.
My opinion:How-to prevent battery corrosion in flashlights
- Don’t buy this brand: Duracell
- Buy this brand: Energizer MAX
How To Prevent Battery Corrosion In Electronics
Purchase Energizer MAX brand batteries (shown above). They’re guaranteed not to leak.
And/Or, Remove the batteries from electronic devices that will not be used for a significant period of time.
This will prevent a slow discharge of the batteries and therefore prevent leakage when the batteries get low or go dead. Dead or low batteries are more likely to leak.
You might have a portable radio set aside for emergencies. Or maybe you haven’t used it for months and months. You should remove the batteries from the battery compartment to prevent a potential slow discharge and the resulting leak and corrosion.
How To Clean Battery Corrosion
To clean up the corrosion ‘fluff’ caused by leaking ALKALINE batteries:
– Vinegar or Lemon juice.– Soak and swab a Q-tip over the terminals.
Batteries with an ACID makeup (e.g. car batteries), how to clean up battery corrosion:
– Mix a solution of baking soda and water to make a sort of paste solution.– This will neutralize the acidic corrosion of the battery terminals.
3 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Thanks Ken, I have a radio I was going to throw away, but after this article I can save it instead. Now I need to go around and take the batteries out of all my unused flashlights and just keep their batteries close by. The ones in the BOBs anyway.
Yes, I leave the batteries uninstalled of the flashlights within my kits, etc. although I leave them right there with the flashlight in a Ziploc bag.
I seem to have a lot of trouble in recent years with alkaline batteries leaking badly before they are even near dead (judgtng from the performance of the equipment).
In industry the rule is, if you have a measuring instrument that takes batteries, always remove the batteries when not in use. Stuff like flashlights, digital voltmeters, and the like are stored with the batteries removed because it is easier to put the batteries back in than to clean up corrosion.
My new Duracell 3000 flashlights from Costco eat batteries! Literally dead in 2 to 3 months. Yet cheaper headband LED lights are fine after a year or two. Any thoughts on why some devices seem to “eat” the batteries faster than others? I’ve had good luck soaking copper contacts in Vinegar overnight to clean them, then rinsing in water. We also had very good results by using a seal meal food saver to package batteries. These batteries were left on a boat stored in a Mexican boat yard for several years in VERY high heat. When removed from the bag they worked great. The boat’s deep cycle 12 volt batteries were all dead even having been disconnected from their cables. Anyone have any experience with the new lights that snap on to a 9 volt battery? What is there minimal voltage? I’m thinking of using them with old smoke alarm batteries.
Quote, “My new Duracell 3000 flashlights from Costco eat batteries! Literally dead in 2 to 3 months.” Question: Do you mean when it’s turned off most of the time or all of the time? If yes, then there must be a ‘parastic drain’ going on with that flashlight – slowly discharging it over time. Not sure what (circuitry) might be causing it – but something must be… Maybe since it’s ‘Duracell’ (and they are know for their batteries), maybe it’s a conspiracy for you to buy more batteries 😉
If yes, then there must be a ‘parastic drain’ going on with that flashlight – slowly discharging it over time. Not sure what (circuitry) might be causing it – but something must be… Maybe since it’s ‘Duracell’ (and they are know for their batteries), maybe it’s a conspiracy for you to buy more batteries. Yes most of the new lights with the high output cube thingy I can’t remember the name of, have a circuit board that seems to suck energy at some level. Unless you have a filament bulb, off is not off. Just like your car (in my opinion) there is always some sort of drain. Most important in my opinion, is that all new flashlights are susceptible to an EMP if not in a faraday cage. You might think of making several mini faradays with pipe and leave the batteries separate. If it were to occur, batteries will be plenty because everyone has gotten rid of the old bulb types and gone high output. And there can always be follow-up EMPs. So don’t pull out your wad if it all goes to hell and expect the best.
I had the same problem with the 3 pk of Duracell flashlights from Costco. I called Duracell and complained and they said I should remove the batteries when I am not using the flashlight. What I did was store the flashlight on its face when it was on and turn off the back cover until the light goes out. There is a constant drain on the flashlight even when it was off. I finally gave the pieces of sht away and bought some small led lights from Amazon. They are bright and only take one AA battery and they do not self discharge when off.
This is why you should only use lithium batteries in your mission critical items. Lithium batteries do not leak and destroy your equipment. Alkaline batteries could be destroying your Aimpoint, comms, GPS, night vision devices, flashlights, strobes, laser flares, etc., like a silent saboteur. With a 20-year shelf life, I usually pick up a few AAA and AA whenever I’m in Home Despot, and buy a box of Surefire CR123 on ebay (from an authorized dealer) every now and then for storage.
Thanks for bringing up that fact. While lithium replacements are expensive, ‘you get what you pay for’. Like you said, ‘mission critical’ is just that – so get the best you can afford… Thanks for the comment.
I have found that I can use HD batteries and avoid the leak. The problem with alkaline batteries is that they not only leak, but they also destroy the headlamp / flashlight connections. My HD batteries don’t seem to leak or corrode and I can leave them in the flashlight. I have lost 6 or 7 flashlights to corrosion, but have found that HE batteries can be left in and not corrode. Note: I have no physics background and little scientific knowledge, but from my experience, HD batteries can be left in and won’t corrode.
ANY type of battery can potentially leak. But primary lithiums and NiMH are FAR less likely to do so than alkaline.
For years I have used duracells. Starting about 2008/9 they began to fail at a prodigious rate. One emergency device mandates battery inspection every year and mandates duracell brand batteries, with a changeout at least 2 years before the printed expiry date on the batteries, and regardless of use, replacement interval of 2 years. It worked this way 20 years without problems or leakage. I used the unused take outs in my maglight flashlights. Beginning in 2010, these batteries would fail before the annual inspection. Duracell said, take them out when not in use. This device is an emergency locator transmitter designed to be a standby device until an impact switch detects a crash. Now, it seems that I have leaky duracells in most of my devices, whether the expiry date is 1 month or 7 years. Whether they are climate controlled or not. We have blacklisted duracells and there are being removed from equipment as the cost of premature replacement batteries is far cheaper than dealing with duracell, or replacing the equipment. The problem appears to have come about 2-3 years after PG took over. I am hopeful that Berkshire-Hathaway will restore the brand, but the reputation is now gone as far as I can see. Equipment with older duracells (pre-2008) do not seem to have this trouble, and I found some little used devices that were still functional with duracell batteries dating form 1999 in them. Anybody can make anything a bit cheaper, but at what cost?
I have had huge leaking problems with Duracells in recent years as well. They leak before the date printed on the battery, and they leak even if not discharged. They are cheap at Costco, but I won’t buy them anymore.
When I was younger, I preferred Duracell over Energizer. Duracell batteries lasted much longer than Energizer. The use was almost. Exclusively in flashlights and Energizers didn’t last for squat. Now-a-days, I have noticed a big problem with leaky Duracell batteries. Hardly saw any leaks years ago.
Ditto with the Duracell leakage. Just threw out a club size package of Duracell AAA’s that do not expire until 2024, but some started leaking in the packaging. They were kept in a dark climate controlled area. The other brands (Energizer, Everyready, etc.) stored in the same drawer are all fine. I had to remove some installed leaking Duracells. thank you for the clean up tip.
I’ve had many many devices destroyed by AA Duracells and as americuh says, they even fail and leak in a package before the expire date. I just took all Duracells out of my small flashlights and other equipment. I bought Amazon Li-ion rechargeables. The only issue with them is their starting voltage is 1.2 rather than 1.5. So some equipment don’t work at lower voltages. Duracells are the absolute worst batteries for leakage. I don’t know why Costco would sell them.
You nailed it. I grew up with Duracell batteries and they were the best. For years now, I have noticed the same problem with all of my Duracell batteries. It does not matter if they are installed in a device, or if they are in a plastic storage box designed specifically for batteries, they LEAK. I never have the issue with rechargeable batteries.
The last several years, I noticed Duracell batteries leak much more readily than other brands, that is my experience after 3 flashlights, a weather station monitor and a laser pointer all had their Duracell batteries leak and corrode and destroy circuitry and chips. I could not fix the units after cleanup and threw them away. I will not buy Duracell again, they are equipment-destroyers. Also, I have started taking any brand of batteries out of key equipment like certain multi-meters and cameras that I rarely use.
I had wondered what has changed with alkaline battery life. In the recent years past, my stored unopened batteries are leaking before they ever see service or the light of day. I have always stored them in a temperature controlled, dark, cool closet, for future use. Now within a year or less, I am seeing ALL brands leak, while sitting in unopened packaging with impressive expiration dates. Store brands are the worst as well as name brands such as Duracell and RayOvac. I have gone to solar chargers and am having better luck using rechargeable batteries. I will begin to stock up on lithium batteries as well, now that I know they may last longer and leak less. Maybe this is due to China-made or corporate greed cutting corners. Batteries rarely leaked like they do nowadays. Thanks for the article.
I have been also experiening Rotting batteries, big time.My Clocks, My Flashlights, my Radio that has been checked yearly as we have to change the times each every year.Duracells, costco’s.This is a big nightmare for me! ALmost weekly. I have a linen closet w/2 flashlights do check them,this x will write it down! They are still rotting out…Now as I have an led’s in cabinets, they too are burning out. Re: A shrink wrap bag sucktion for food, hand held also has batteries, I hardley used it, it puncked out as well.So I did remove those batteries, keep them in a snack baggie.The bags, shrinkables for food, for the tripple’s I just bought @ Ace Hardware their brand on sale, too, to see if this helps.I got the Vinegar or lemon cleaner tip too, I use alcohol sprayer emery board to refinish the metal if rotted out,to black.I use the rechargables too, Lithium, Cad’s ect.they have never rotted out.But not sure the charger is appropriate for the multiples. Rayovac’s oldie.I do it anyways,but sometimes they loose charge, too.I’ve been trying to keep tabs on the times, ect types but it’s a full time job, right.Watches=nightmare! lately Solars.another nightmare!! U’d think we can put a man on the moon yet can’t make these last,ect.How about adding clear polich to the edges of the batteries? Not cover the silver parts? Well thanks for the info.this is great!
What is never said is that the real reason alkaline batteries leak since ~1908 is that around that time, all manufactures removed mercury from alkaline batteries. The function of mercury was to react with the zinc shell to form a coating that resisted corrosion by the batteries’ chemicals. Henceforth they all leaked, with the better batteries having an outer shell that resisted exit of the internal leak. The pressure-reducing vent at the bottom of the battery is now the weakest link.
Be careful here! Some instruments that use multiple cells will be ruined by lithium batteries. That’s because the lithium cells have a slightly different voltage. Might not matter with only a couple of cells, but you put 4 or more of those in series and the voltage will be destructive to some instruments. In fact check out the high end Fluke 289 DMM. They specifically say not to use lithium batteries because of this. If you must use them, drain them some first to lower the voltage.
Lithium batteries ARE a lower voltage, 1.2V. I think this is why Fluke says don’t use because 4 in series is only 4.8V rather than 6V that you get with 4 regular batteries. Not enough voltage to make the Fluke work properly.
That is a good question. Here are my thoughts without ‘searching’ the internet for research… Since they are rechargeable batteries, I believe they are designed differently such that they can take the heat of a charge (versus typical consumer alkaline batteries which will become damaged and likely leak if conventionally recharged) – and therefore better handle the consequences of potential off-gassing. To date I have not experienced a leaking problem with the eneloops and I have been using them for years.
I have been using the eneloop batteries for 8-9 years now, and have never experienced any leakage. This is true for eneloops installed in devices as well as uninstalled in plastic storage boxes. I just threw out a pile of properly stored Duracell’s, with dates five years out; I then searched the web and found this thread that confirms I’m not the only one to experience the “Duracell’s are now crap” syndrome. No more Costco Duracell’s in our house.
NO they wont.thats why i gone to rechargeable and eneloop are one of the best but any rechargeable will never leak.i have 150 in use for years now and not one let me down.
I have had rechargeable batteries leak. Not often, but it can happen. I have also recharged standard alkaline batteries in a recharger. They take a recharge just fine. They normally only leak after repeated recharge or overcharge. I have never had one explode, although if overcharged they do get extremely hot. Recharged alkaline batteries ARE more likely to leak or lose their charge if left unused for an extended period. Rechargeable batteries also develop a “memory” after a while and don’t fully recharge. Alkaline batteries do not seem to have this problem.
If I remember correctly, about 5 years ago (approximately?) was early in the Eneloop history. That’s about when I purchased my first units. So far so good with those. I’ve since purchased more recent iterations as their technology progressed. Love the rechargeables.
Not sure if this is relevant on “discharging” batteries but – if these are Ni-cad, that is a common problem with many Ni-cads, especially as they age. They just don’t hold a charge the way lithium batteries do.
I’ll try the eneloop batteries in the Duracell lights. I have a small Garmin GPS to use on my boat and when I was trying to find out about battery life I asked Garmin. I was told by them to not use Lithium batteries as the voltage is too high. As far as them going dead, they’re sitting in the flashlight in the glove compartment of my truck. Usually parked under a pole shed in a cool climate.
Is it any different for permanently installed batteries such as in cordless drills, emergency wind up radios and flashlights?
My flashlight has a removable carriage that holds 3 AAA batteries, is removing the carriage from the unit while leaving the batteries in the carriage disengage them from discharging?
Yes, correct. I don’t know of any of these battery ‘carriages’ or holders that have any active circuitry built-in. It’s an easy and simple solution to remove it and keep separately with the flashlight.
Ken, the carriage likely does not have circuitry, but does it have metal at the ends, which is touching the battery ends? if the batteries are touching metal I thought they could “set” up a circuit, and have the same problem?
There is such a thing as electrolysis. However the major contributing factor for leaking batteries are after they’re ‘dead’. They become dead by a parasitic drain over time, or simply over-usage. If the batteries are still in good shape (not dead), I suspect that you will be okay with them simply installed in the battery carrier. Perhaps over a VERY long time, there could be some visible electrolysis depending on the materials used at the contacts…
If the batteries in the carriage are connected in parallel, I would think they would be more prone to discharging during storage with carriage removed because of the weaker battery(ies) sucking a charge from the other one(s). If they are connected in series, they would be “open ended” with no complete circuit, and would have the same life as uninstalled shelf life.
Taking a closer look at the carriage I noted that it has a depressible button on it that isolates contact between the batteries when removed from the flashlight. Somebody was thinking. This has been a very good topic. I’d have a question too about those batteries that have a built-in charge indicator, does using that deplete the charge?
Richard, I think that is a good point…built in charge indicator… seems like it must deplete charge, somewhat….
It’s been many years since my EE degree, but IIRC self discharge is an internal chemical reaction and is intrinsic to the type of battery. Generally the only way to slow the self discharge is to store at lower temperatures. The lower the temp the slower the chemical reaction the slower the self discharge. You notice this effect every winter morning with that slow chugging starter on your car/truck. Combine slower chemical reactions with thicker viscosity of oil and slow starts!
Hey fom yonder Island, Been going around emptying flashlights and such. Great timing, I thought there was something going on with one side.the negative. On to another article. Be well and as always thanks for your work. o…
Be careful! Not all electronics are protected from reverse polarization, e.g. diodes, and you can easily fry stuff. I would never just reverse the batteries. Just take them out and store them in the reefer. Low temp, slow reactions.
It’s also a good idea to store your batteries in anti-static mylar bags. They can easily be purchased on either eBay or Amazon in various sizes. Ya know, for when there’s a CME or massive solar flare, and thus they can hopefully survive and not short out from the static overload.
I had a big Maglite 5 cell corrode so badly it would not open. Sent it back to Maglite and they replaced it with a new one, even though it was several years old (great company, btw) and they had no obligation to do so. They also recommended removing the batteries periodically (I do it every month) to “air out” both the batteries and the cylinder…been doing it for 3 years now with no problems at all.
I just removed half dozen AAA rechargeable, 4 eneelop and 4 duracell, from my newly purchased OPUS BT-2000 charger. They sat out for about 15 minutes and felt cool to the touch. I placed them together in a ziplock bag and sealed it. The next morning there was condensation in the bag and two of the batteries had leaked and corroded with black marks near the postive terminal. I’m new to rechargeables and I’ve always stored alkalines in a ziplock bag for long periods of time with no problems. Wondering what I did wrong and if there are special rules for the storage of rechargeables that I may not be aware of. Any input appreciated.
I have a charger for my eneloop AA and AAA batteries. I charge the AA batteries at 500Mamp ( a low, slow, rate), and my AAA’s at 200Mamp (a correspondingly slow, low rate). The batteries will last far longer and have more of a charge than if you use a faster rate. Faster rates cause higher internal temperatures, and higher gas pressure, that is more likely to pop a seal or cause a leak.
I bought a Panasonic portable irrigator recently, supplied with 2 AA Panasonic batteries. The instructions include the following guidance (see under). So they advise replacing batteries (which last only for 20 mins use) with AA Panasonic alkaline batteries and NOT rechargeable ones. Before reading this I had decided to use rechargeable batteries for reasons of economy. I now wonder … can anyone tell me if there is a logical reason for the warning – or is this merely the manufacturer trying to increase sales of their alkaline batteries? _ Insert two AA size alkaline batteries. Please use Panasonic alkaline batteries (AA size). (It can be used for approximately 30 times with full tank usage, or approximately 20 minutes of continuous usage.) Do not use rechargeable batteries. Doing so may result in the leakage of the battery leading to malfunction.
@Vic, Regarding the the battery voltage difference between alkaline and rechargeable batteries, Alkaline batteries have a voltage of around 1.5 – 1.6v off the shelf, however they quickly drop to around 1.25v under actual load, and then given their inherent ‘sloped discharge curve’ they drop further over time to around 1v when almost discharged. Rechargeable NiMH batteries have a voltage of around 1.35v when fully charged, however under load they start around 1.2v and they continue to stay around 1.2v until the battery is almost fully depleted. So under these typical conditions, there’s little or no effective difference between the two while under load. Additionally most electronic gear design and manufacturers take into account the voltage characteristics of rechargeable batteries. With that said, I am not sure why your particular product mfgr suggests not to use rechargeable batteries. Perhaps it is an old design… or maybe they want to sell you their own batteries 😉 …hope this helps.
Thanks for reply Ken, much appreciated: it does seem to support my impression that the manufacturer just wants to increase sales of their own batteries. The batteries originally supplied were LR6 AA – “LR6(GWE)1.5V industrial alkaline” – presumably not much to choose between these and any other AA battery?
Duracell battaries leak even brand new before using. This happens only in revent years. Just a few days ago took out Duracell batteries from an old radio that was not in use for over 10 years. These old batteries did not leak (although discharged). However, today I founf in my drower unused Duracell battaries “good” till 2017. All of them leaking.
I have seen brand new batteries leak. Even the ones they pack along with flashlights. Don’t open the package for a couple of months and you are most likely to find leaking batteries. My take is that they are trying to boost sales of new devices that use batteries due to a slow economy. I had decent luck with Kodak batteries.
I think you are right. Duracell batteries sometimes leak even brand new before using, and I also think that this has been happening only in recent years. Just some time ago I took out Duracell batteries from an old walkman that was not in use for over 20 years. Not kidding. These old batteries did not leak. However, today I found in my wall clock a little used Duracell AA battery that was supposed to be “good” till March 2018. Something must be going bad at Duracell’s. I don’t think Duracell’s leak is connected with the battery being discharged or not.
I’ve stopped using Duracell entirely, the new ones have all leaked where I’ve used them, usually before the charge has gone. Total rubbish now. Have not had Panasonics leak, yet.
Several times here it states that Lithium batteries do not leak (Slugjet June 16 2015). I invented an electronic device, and stored it for 28 years (1988) after first removing all known voltage sources. I was unaware that the LCD counter had a built-in Non-Replaceable 3 Volt Lithium battery. When I took it out for inspection, a brown liquid poured out. ( did not evaporate from when it started to leak ) Upon inspection I found that several metal parts had been eaten away, and 2 transistor legs were not there anymore, the third was still connected to the original wire, but now hanging loosely. Battery and counter were totally defaced. One transistor is slightly covered with brown residue. I do not have all diagrams, and want to name and replace it.I want to give it a wash-up, but do not know with what. JACKIE
Duracell batteries are over-filled with electrolyte during manfacturing. As the cells are used, the available space inside the battery decreases. If the cells are exposed to any heating, the expansion of the eletrolyte will break the seal and it will leak out. I advised them of this problem years ago. Duracell batteries have damaged many items that I own. Unfortunately, they are the largest vender of batteries. Other better brands are not sold everywhere. If the battery powered item is seldomly used, remove the batteries and store them separately.
Will reversing the batteries (positive touching positive) stop any parasitic leak? I think that this will stop all current from flowing through the battery and into the device. I also don’t have to have additional space to store batteries if you decide to remove them.
If the batteries are connected in parallel as a group within the device, you will have a short if you reverse one or more of the batteries. For example if you have a 3 battery tray/pack, (like some flashlights) battery A, B, and C will have their positives tied together as one common positive terminal, and A, B, and C will have their negatives tied together as the common negative terminal. The voltage between the common terminals for three parallel batteries will be 1.5 volts. If you reverse one of the batteries, you now have two parallel batteries connected to the reversed polarity battery which is a short circuit. Draw it out on paper and it should make more sense.
Batteries should not be leaking like this. The manufacture should rethink how to build batteries. When batteries leak take it back and get a replacement. or stop buying batteries from a company that does not know how to build them. This is awful
I have been noticing for a while issues with batteries leaking, much more so in recent years. I thought it was me or some weird phenomena local to where I live, but thankfully (or not really in this case) I’m not the only one. I’m baffled how some no-name batteries that get shipped with TV remotes will last YEARS and never corrode, yet the Duracell batteries that shipped with my X-Box remote, that have a date of 2019, have already corroded in a remote that is used frequently. AND it still works with the corroded batteries inside it!
Back in the good ol days, the remotes arrived with carbon “Heavy Duty” batteries. As noted previously, these would last for Ten Years or more, some still working, but none leaking. The newest remotes arrived with Alkalines.
Every time you used your flashlight, when you are finished turn one of the batteries around in the opposite direction. This will keep them from draining so you will get the maximum use from your battery.
Wayne, It depends on the flashlight. I have flashlights that use three AA batteries in a holder, that are in parallel. (1.5 volts assuming 1.5 volts per battery) Reversing one battery will be a short, even with the holder out of the flashlight. If the flashlight uses three cells in series, such as a Maglite type flashlight (4.5 volts, again assuming 1.5 volts per battery), then removing a battery should do no harm.
Storage of loose batteries during flight. Batteries must not be stored together. or ensure the negative and positive can never touch.
Great discussion! As mentioned by one EE, most all batteries have some internal resistance. Left a long time, they will discharge and many will leak. I have had to throw away many little flashlights that use AAA or AA batteries. In my experience, DON’T BUY Kirkland from Costco and don’t buy Duracell unless the ones say 10 yr. shelf life. I will also stay away from Eveready. I just took out some dead Rayovac AAs that had been sitting around in some WII controllers for several years. They were dead but not leaking. Panasonic and Sony seem to be pretty good batteries as well. I will try Energizer now based on the above discussion.
Slightly off topic, but since folks recommend removing batteries after use to avoid discharge and leakage, be careful with 9 volt batteries, since the terminals, positive and negative, are both at the top it is entirely possible to, say, short them out with spare change in a jeans. or whatever. If I take 9 volt out, I put scotch tape over the terminals to avoid these shorts. With the usual AAA or AA or C or D, it is hard to imagine a circumstance where they could inadvertently short, as the terminals are at either end of the battery and thus separated by not only distance but position, unlike the 9 v. which can be covered and shorted with a dime. Anyway, I wondered why my pants was so warm all of a sudden, and discovered why. FWIW.
I also experienced the warm pants syndrome when changing 9 volt batteries in some smoke alarms. The old batteries were touching keys in my
Druracells are absolute garbage. Duraleaks destroys electronics no matter what, installed, brand new, still in the package, before expiration. If you want to trash any device, put some Duraleaks in it that is guaranteed. Some cheap batteries that are included with TV remotes that are all gold colored or the orange and black color, the brands escape, don’t have this issue after a year. The unfortunate thing I read was Duracell/leak is the manufacturer of Kirkland batteries, so expect the same leakage thing to your devices. I haven’t seen an Energizer battery leak yet.
Actually comrade in my wii Remote i was using an energizer battery leaked and i never had that happen to me with a Duracell alkaline battery that bad before.
Folltrace, Never knew anyone who had a wii controller who left it idle long enough for a battery to leak, but your heads up is appreciated. You are the first I know of that hasn’t had a Duracel battery leak. If I find myself in a survival situation, and depending on a wii controller to get me through it, I’m screwed. I don’t even have one. I never even considered their importance. Now I know. If I find myself in dire need of one, I sincerely hope, if I find one in time, it has a Duracell battery.
Duracell batteries just destroyed a 400 multimeter. NO the batteries were not old. NO it wasn’t stored away fro a long time. (Multimeter working normally, stored 8 months, destroyed at end of 8 months). Simple internet surfing shows that Panasonic, and Energizer, claim to not have battery leaks. Duracell doesn’t make this claim. I will not buy or install Duraleak again. When I encounter their batteries I will simply throw them out. Panasonic is the only company claiming some science. They say gas is generated (hydrogen) in a failing battery and they include ingredients to consume the gas, reducing pressure so the cell doesn’t leak. I’m inclining to Panasonic (or Energizer) going forwards. Too bad I cannot send Duraleak the bill for what they’ve done.
Norm Hill= try contacting the company. The batteries should have some codes numbers or something on them, if you still have them. Never know, company might do something.
Norm Hill, I feel your pain. I learned my lesson with Duracell years ago, which is partly what prompted me to write this article. Ever since I started buying Energizer MAX, everything’s been fine.
Hello to everyone! My experience with Duracell is the same. I lost one Maglite flashlight because Duracell leaked and I was not able to open it. After that I use only other batteries. Varta, Philips and Panasonic are very good brands!
We bought some in February 2017 and they were in the original wrapping, The boxes looked all lumpy and the stack of maybe 9 or more had to junk them. How long should the shelf life be?? These may have been 2 years old? It is temperature and moisture controlled in here so I’m wondering what would cause that??
I would like to know why a battery charger quits working after a battery leaks in it the first time and clean up is done as soon as I noticed the battery leaked?
Gilles Levesque; than likely the Battery when it leaked it also shorted out and fried the electronics in the Charger.
I just returned a package of newer AAA Duracells to Costco yesterday. They leaked and destroyed my Motorola Walkie Talkies. When I went to go get more noted that the ones still new in the rest of the package were leaking. Walkie Talkie is messed up. Not uncommon with Duracells these days. Thus, I’ve moved (am moving, wish I could remember all the places I have put Duracells) to Eneloops. I have 2 Faraday cages in 2 locations with a solar charger that backpackers use, and Xtar USB battery chargers. The Xtars will do all Nimh and also 26650 and 18650 which my Tecsun PL880 takes. Ikea Laddas are as good as the Eneloops and cheaper. (when they have them).
Have been using amazon brand rechargeable and eneloop rechargeable. Initially, both brands performed very well. Two years down the road, the amazon rechargeable batteries are not holding a charge as well as they once did. I think I’ll buy eneloop only next time. Had to experiment a little. That and the wife says “I’m cheap.” I think she’s right. No leaking issues with either brand. There are soooo many brands to choose from. Don’t recommend interstate rechargeables either.
Duracells are terrible now, thinking about taking them all back to costco, have about 20 packs, checked them again the other day and one more unopened pack already has leakers after only 3 months since the last check. Energizer litiums are the go to if not my rechargeables
Duracell’s used to be good. Years ago they were. I always used them. But then something changed a number of years ago. They leak. Maybe they cheapened their manufacturing processes. Who knows… But I definitely do not buy them anymore.
Ken, Just a thought. Have Duracell’s changed or is it the devices they’re used in that changed. Years ago, my flashlights had incandescent bulbs. As a cop, I used my flashlight a lot. On deep nights, I had to replace the batteries in a flashlight twice/three times a week. They never lasted long enough to leak. When krypton bulbs came the vogue, batteries lasted about twice as long, then LED’s, then Cree, each brighter and less drain on batteries (after I retired). I agree that Duracell’s leak fairly quickly, and Energizer and Rayovac seem to never leak (I’ve lost several devices to battery leakage, duracell’s in every instance). Could it be that the latter improved their products self life to keep up with technology and Duracell didn’t?
They went downhill soon after Berkshire Hathaway bought them from Proctor and Gamble and started making them overseas (china) and packaging them in the US
Dennis, My gut tells me it’s the Duracell battery that has changed. The logic: If it’s the devices that have changed, then why do some batteries (the Energizer MAX) not leak when installed in them… whereas I can install today’s Duracell’s in any device and pretty much guaranteed an eventual leak.
Ken, Have had a few friends ask me if ive had trouble with them as well, same thing, always leaks that ruin the device, we are all careful about where etc, so its the batteries, When they leak in the original package in a tub in my storeroom that never goes over 65 degrees and never sees daylight theres a problem.
Learned on MSB that other were talking about Duracell’s leaking and I had to agree. Threw out a great fluorescent lantern. Tried to clean but to no avail. Now I have the Eneloops and only buy Energizer batteries. Working through the Duracell and keeping a watch on the items that have them. If you buy Eneloops get the size C and D jackets to put the AA’s in so you can use in those items that require C and D batteries. Really cool idea they came up with.
The C and D ‘jackets’ (adapters)… Be aware that the energy capacity of genuine C and D cells are LOTS more than using AA’s in those adapters. The bottom line is that the batteries just won’t last as long as they would if you bought C and D rechargeables. I have a link to those batteries in the following article: Rechargeable Batteries Solar Charger For AA, AAA, C, D, USB
I have a battery charger that will recharge all types of batteries including alkaline. Got it on Amazon. I estimate about 10% of alkalines won’t recharge-not sure why. About another 5% can’t handle the recharging and leak. But that leaves about 85% of my alkaline batteries that i can re-use, sometimes multiple times. I have noticed that Rayovac don’t recharge as well. Duracell and Energizer are pretty good. Surprisingly, the cheapo batteries from Harbor Freight (which you can for free with their coupon) are among the ones that recharge best. With this process, I rarely need to buy batteries.
I’ve been recharging alkaline batteries for years. They recharge just fine. Always keep track of their temperature, and if you have a charger without a charge controller keep a close eye on the batteries because they will just keep charging until they start to leak. The batteries that don’t recharge in my tests actually went negative for whatever reason. Once they go negative, even by a hair, they don’t seem to recharge well or at all. Those that leak in the charger seem to be those that charge the fastest, and because they’re in line with others that still have low power they keep gaining power until they reach failure level.
I am curious to know which specific charger you use in this regard. Note to others: Charge alkaline batteries at your own risk 😉 Although not intended for recharging, I know that some have some limited success to an extent. I tried it (a long time ago) and the battery got REAL HOT. Think it was AA size. Therefore I stick with my Eneloop’s for that.
Yes, the batteries get hot if left in a charger that just keeps pushing power through (which mine does). If they’re just charged and pulled off, most of them are fine. I’ve been doing a project since 2009 that would have required thousands of batteries–buying them was impossible, so I recharged the ones I have. Of them all, the worst rechargers are the rechargables. Go figure.
Maybe yall let your duracell batteries get hot or had them in a hot storage for a while. In the past I have had all kinds of batteries leak. My oldest ones d cells came with giger counters, they are eveready dry cells in the area of 20 years old and are clean full 1.5v Just checked my d cell lantern that has duracell’s in it that expired in 2005. Still perfect at about 1.4v It comes down to caring for your items, not dumping them where ever when not in use and actually checking them occasionally. It’s called maintenance, simple enough and too hard for most.
I have used Rayovac batteries for many years, and never had any major problem with them. They get old, I just throw them away. Only time something corroded was when I left it 6 or 7 years, and didn’t check it. Shame on me. They work, so guess I’ll just keep using them.
For the last 5-years I have been buying Panasonic aa’s and AAA’s at “The Dollar Tree” and have had very good luck with them. No leaks so far, but then I swap them out more often then most people do. I also have never had one leak on me. I invested heavily in Eneloop’s, I have maybe 50 of both AA AAA size. I also have 20 or so Rayovac rechargeable batts and while not as good as Eneloop’s, they work OK. I bought what I feel is the best AA AAA battery charger on the market, the Maha MH-C9000, it’s got a learning curve but it does a lot. You can set it to a charge rate from 200 MAh up to 2-amps. It charges batteries, breaks in new batteries, cycles them and reconditions the batteries. Amazon has it for about 55.00, I bought 2 of them. Maha MH-C9000 Battery Charger – Analyzer (AA, AAA) The Maha tells you how many MAh it put into the battery, I find Eneloop’s to be pretty close to what the battery is rated at. But the Rayovac are several hundred MAh. lower then their stated rating, As far as Energizer’s I bought several packs of their rechargeable ones several years ago and found them to be complete JUNK. I had a digital camera that ran on AA batts and bought a few packs of Energizer rechargeable batts. I charged them and tried to use them. The camera would turn off after 2 or 3 pictures because of low battery power. I thought I got a bad run of the Energizer batts but after buying 5 packages of them and having all of them do the same thing I refuse to give Energizer a single dime of my money. I now use Eneloop’s for my rechargeable battery needs. What the Energizer and Duracell companies don’t seem to understand is once you make junk and drive people away, they won’t come back. Cutting quality saves money, but it lowers quality. And in the case of batteries it can destroy an expensive electronic item. This doesn’t sit well with customers and they walk away from your product.
For years I’ve wondered why batteries are not encased in plastic (plastic is pretty inexpensive these days) so they don’t leak. I imagine the battery would need some kind of vent and I would think it could be made in a way to allow gas escape and yet no chemical leak. These companies should have a responsibly to make a battery that doesn’t destroy the product (many times an expensive product) they are used in.
Chuck, The only thing corporations are interested in is profits, otherwise our cars and trucks would still be solid steel with tons of HP and easy to work on, and our appliances would be well built, solid and trouble free, as it is, EVERYTHING is disposable